top thread shredding.... tried a few things to fix but no luck

[beltbuckles]

i am using a juki 5550 for  on synthetic suede.. thick but not to thick.. definately sewable..   anyway,  my top thread keeps shredding.. hmmmm.. i changed the way the thread is fed to the machine.. it doesn't have a spool holder so i kinda made one....  i am using a size 18 db x1 (110) needle. thread size is about 69, maybe a little bit bigger...

  so i played with the tension, (the bigger knob, not the top little one).. and that i continue to have problems..

i am using 2 types of thread.. one good quality, the other one is some upholstry from walmart..   i have more problems from the walmart one, but i don't think its the tread...

i did start using the size 18 needle, not sure what the size was in it before it.. maybe i need to adjust the tining??   

  it sews fine with really small thread....

maybe a bigger needle?  ?

 

[Wizcrafts]

There is no point using a bigger needle than #18 with #69 bonded nylon thread. That is the largest diameter thread your machine should be able to sew with.

The only thing you might do to help the thread stay intact is to lengthen the stroke of the check spring a little at a time, watching how much slack is in the thread as the needle makes contact with the material. Garment machines, like your 5550, usually have a short default check spring travel that works best with soft cotton or polycore garment weight threads. Bonded nylon thread is a whole nuther story.

[Ed in Tx]

I had a similar situation that about drove me crazy. After trying several things it ended up being a very tiny burr on the needle. I had put a new needle in so didn't think that was the issue but it ended up that I had a bad pack of needles. Worth checking out. 

[CowboyBob]

How does the hole look in the needle plate?They can get chewed up pretty easy from needles hitting it.

[DrmCa]

+1 for replacing the needle and checking throat plate, but also check the foot and all guides for burrs. As we have no idea about the condition of your machine, this can be anything.

[beltbuckles]

  On 8/29/2017 at 7:00 PM, Ed in Tx said:

I had a similar situation that about drove me crazy. After trying several things it ended up being a very tiny burr on the needle. I had put a new needle in so didn't think that was the issue but it ended up that I had a bad pack of needles. Worth checking out. 

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  On 8/29/2017 at 7:09 PM, CowboyBob said:

How does the hole look in the needle plate?They can get chewed up pretty easy from needles hitting it.

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  On 8/29/2017 at 7:46 PM, DrmCa said:

+1 for replacing the needle and checking throat plate, but also check the foot and all guides for burrs. As we have no idea about the condition of your machine, this can be anything.

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i tried different needles... same thing...

i looked at my throat plate.. it does have a little spike coming out of it.. ill try to grind or smooth it out tonight.. see if that helps

     i actually tried to run the machine without the throat place just to see if it cuts the thread... .bad idea

  On 8/29/2017 at 6:47 PM, Wizcrafts said:

There is no point using a bigger needle than #18 with #69 bonded nylon thread. That is the largest diameter thread your machine should be able to sew with.

The only thing you might do to help the thread stay intact is to lengthen the stroke of the check spring a little at a time, watching how much slack is in the thread as the needle makes contact with the material. Garment machines, like your 5550, usually have a short default check spring travel that works best with soft cotton or polycore garment weight threads. Bonded nylon thread is a whole nuther story.

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i need strong thread for the stuff i make.. (handbags)  would polycore be any good, or should i just stick to nylon

[CowboyBob]

Nylon should work as long as your machine is in good shape to sew it.You might want to look around the outside of the hook(the piece of tin held on with 4 screws),the needle can hit it & put nicks in it.

[plinkercases]

when I had the same issue it was an almost invisible burr in the plate from a needle strike and using emery cord to smooth the needle hole solved the issue right away.

[Uwe]

Make sure you take removable parts like throat plate or feed dog off the machine before smoothing them with a dremel tool, diamond file,  or abrasive cord. You don't want the abrasive grit falling into your machine or hook. 

[beltbuckles]

  On 8/30/2017 at 2:54 AM, plinkercases said:

when I had the same issue it was an almost invisible burr in the plate from a needle strike and using emery cord to smooth the needle hole solved the issue right away.

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i got the needle plate cleaned up alot better (not perfect but better)... didn't help

  On 8/29/2017 at 11:13 PM, CowboyBob said:

Nylon should work as long as your machine is in good shape to sew it.You might want to look around the outside of the hook(the piece of tin held on with 4 screws),the needle can hit it & put nicks in it.

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i felt around..  didn't feel anything...

  On 8/29/2017 at 7:00 PM, Ed in Tx said:

I had a similar situation that about drove me crazy. After trying several things it ended up being a very tiny burr on the needle. I had put a new needle in so didn't think that was the issue but it ended up that I had a bad pack of needles. Worth checking out. 

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what brand needle.. i am using organ needles.. 

[DrmCa]

Organ should be fine. I found no difference in performance among Organ, Schmetz and GB.

You might be just stretching your luck putting too heavy material through this machine. I own 553 and it does not like heavy stuff. It will stitch 4 layers of denim no problem, but give it leather and it will skip and shred nylon, poly or polycore thread which works fine otherwise. 55x series is a textile machine after all. It did stitch marine vinyl no problem though.

Edited August 31, 2017 by DrmCa

[beltbuckles]

  On 8/30/2017 at 1:15 PM, Uwe said:

Make sure you take removable parts like throat plate or feed dog off the machine before smoothing them with a dremel tool, diamond file,  or abrasive cord. You don't want the abrasive grit falling into your machine or hook. 

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  On 8/29/2017 at 11:13 PM, CowboyBob said:

Nylon should work as long as your machine is in good shape to sew it.You might want to look around the outside of the hook(the piece of tin held on with 4 screws),the needle can hit it & put nicks in it.

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yup, i removed the plated first before drilling.... 

so i started playing with the tension and making it loose and tight....  making it loose helped but the sticking was very poor.  anyway i got the tension back to normal and the problem is still there.. i started sewing really slowly and i kinda hear it get caught on something... not sure what..??

i think it may be the tread spool,, i set it up so it would flow better, ill tried just having extra thread loosely sitting there and it sewed okay...

Edited August 31, 2017 by beltbuckles

[Uwe]

  On 8/31/2017 at 11:16 PM, beltbuckles said:

i kinda hear it get caught on something

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There's your next step -find out what causes that. Tilt the machine back and hand-turn a few stitches with material under the foot while carefully observing how the thread wraps around the hook. Perhaps your bobbin case opener arm is not doing its job. The thread apparently snags somewhere and that is very likely the cause for your thread shredding business.

Edited September 1, 2017 by Uwe

[brmax]

I would run some textiles through the machine and try getting the tension back where it sewed a great stitch.

These issues have damaged mine more than once by bending the needles enough to hit something when motor is powering through.  Although if it hand wheels through the cycle easily then its hard to tell so patients and perseverance.

That noise while cycling sure sounds like a clue. Seems the burrs get started and needles get redirected in short order.  

I think this is compounded with leather material vs canvas types.  I need to place an order for some more fine abrasive cord. Wonder if the guitar shop has some?

good luck there

Floyd

[Wizcrafts]

  On 9/1/2017 at 5:31 AM, brmax said:

I would run some textiles through the machine and try getting the tension back where it sewed a great stitch.

SNIP

I think this is compounded with leather material vs canvas types.

Floyd

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There is a reason why leather causes stitch and needle problems to be revealed where cloth has no problems being sewn. The leather is denser, thread tensions are higher, and this pulls and deflects needles to the left as you sew. Thinner needles (#110/18) deflect more than thicker ones (#200/25).

Needle deflection by the thread can be controlled somewhat by lowering both the top and bobbin tensions and using one size larger needle if necessary. This combination will reduce deflection of the needle, but may lay a lighter stitch than higher tensions do.

[brmax]

Yes I agree and understanding a bit.  In my thinking the semi-suede used can actually have leather in it, though from some upholstery points a lot is "if leather" is probably ground up bits and then sprayed onto the textile backer.  

Im wondering what a photo could help here and so just recommending a restart.  Possibly any mention in layers and any other recent issues. 

Thanks for the tips and have a good weekend

Floyd

[Ed in Tx]

I believe they were Organ brand needles that I had the issue with.