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RockyAussie

How I make Wedding Ring Boxes

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Sorry for taking so long and thank you all for the complements. I had made a couple of small changes from when I did the prototypes like from .5 to .6mm thicker on the top edge fold and it came back to bite me. This was done to make the tops grab onto the bases a little stronger than the did previously. As quite a few of these were pre sold and due, I had to get these done and make a few more tools to quicken things up at the same time. I will catch up on some more pictures tomorrow and hopefully get them on by nightfall. There are heaps of pics and getting them in an order to make any sense will take a bit of time. As per

On 16/09/2017 at 8:03 AM, NCArcher said:

Would love to see a video of the whole process Brian. I'm sure plenty of others would as well

 

On 16/09/2017 at 1:39 PM, Stetson912 said:

I second that. Looks like a mesmerizing process

 

On 17/09/2017 at 0:22 PM, motocouture said:

Third vote on that!!

I have started some of the parts into videos and they make a lot more sense to me, but the editing (mostly cutting out the bad words) takes me quite a while:wub:

I will load a couple over the next week and with some luck will evolve it into all of the steps combined at which stage I will delete the bit versions.

If it is of interest to you it might pay to follow me here or on my you tube channel. I will notify here on LW at any rate.

On 15/09/2017 at 9:37 AM, plinkercases said:

I get as much of a kick out of the tools and jigs and creations than the end products! even when I am making things myself. Like living in an episode of "How it's Made".. I love process engineering.

I have to be honest and say I get most of the joy creating how to do the project than I do making the product itself. I find that part boring normally after the first few and then the challenge starts again on how to make it even quicker and easier and better. Now if only I had Uwe to come and do the videos we'd have a video really in the "How its Made" quality. I will do my best.

For now I will load a few pictures of the making of the side strips that wrap around later. Earlier you will see where I split these pieces and skiving is the next step so.....DSC00623_resize.JPG

Above the strips have been skived and below shows the skive goes from around .3mm at the edge and tapers up to 1mm in the middle.DSC00632_resize.JPG

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Here I have used a thin cardboard about .2mm thick and spray glued to attach to the side strip leather as shown next.

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Molly my quality controller showing her disapproval of this poorly cut strip.

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After attaching all the cardboards to the leathers strips and spray glued again they are transported down to be folded the next day.

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These can now be folded with the use of a bone folder if you prefer or as I do in a modified folding machine as per the next three pictures.

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Stitching these comes next.

I think the videos may be a lot clearer. Until tomorrow Regards Brian

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Next we have to stitch the side strips and note I prefer to pull the thread down before taking the stitch over the topDSC00773_resize.JPG

Holding the threads firmly underneath helps to give a tidy finish

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Next will show how these strips are attached.

 

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Amazing! Thanks again for taking the time to post the pics. The insights into the behind the scenes is really interesting 

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Your welcome.

Following is a step that I hope to not have to do in future boxes. This was necessary due to me making the top and bottom leathers a little thicker than what I had planed when I printed the pla box inserts. The cardboard shown wrapped around is .2mm and I have changed the new insert to now allow for this. This helps to keep the sides nice and level ...ish.

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Firstly I've marked where the glue line is safe to go up to then below shows the procedure of then gluing up. A fine tip is very handy to have when doing this.

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With the cardboard applied it should look as below.

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We are now ready to apply the side strips. In the next picture you see where I have again marked the edge for the glue line but this time I have scratched it in deeply to match up with where the thread will be touching.

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Now the side strips and this part can be glued as shown. Note the threads have been already glued down well before this step.

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Using the printed jig above and below I am able to keep the side strip exactly level with the edge and as well use it to apply considerable pressure as I roll it into shape. Also this gives me something hard to press against when closing the join with the aid of a cow horn slicker/folder.

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Above I am using a 1" brass bar to help get a firm pressure over the full side.

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The next steps will go through the process of making up the Grosgrain ribbon inner supports.

Thanks for following and please make any comment or ask questions if I seem to have missed anything so far.

Brian

 

 

Edited by RockyAussie
picture not needed

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More of the boring stuff. Note that as this is my first production run some of this is already superseded but the changes should show up in the Video when I get it done.

In this picture below it shows the application of this Kwik Grip water based contact adhesive that is clear. After a lot of experiments I found that it has the advantage of staying tacky for days.

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Below I am setting the Grosgrain up to the stopper in my line up machine. A 7mm key steel could be used instead at this point. If you care to check my You tube channel you will see this line up machine in action and some more details of somewhere on LW. The making of I think.

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Next here I am applying a strip of .6mm pasteboard to the Grosgrain.

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The following shows a 6mm key steel to separate the next pasteboard strip that later goes into the lid section.

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Some firm pressure makes the contact hold well to the Grosgrain

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Following this you could glue up and fold by hand with a bone folder as done below. I fold both outer edges then cut between as shown in the next picture.

 

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After this cut the two inner edges get folded.

At this stage I decided to see if I could get away with spray gluing before folding and as the lighter colour Grosgrain can be very transparent I though best to test one of each colour first. The next picture shows why at the first stage it was necessary to use a clear glue. The next few pictures I think explain themselves and the end result worked well.

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Next step is to cut them all up the middle and fold. The spray glue test worked.DSC00847_resize.JPG

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After tis is done the ends have to be trimmed and formed into a circle. As there were so many I thought best to make a holding block to help form the shape more quickly. So you see below the printing of this while I trim the ends.

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A very sharp knife is needed to not have the Grosgrain fray out everywhere.

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Once they are cut I put an edge of pva glue to stop any future fraying. This section has been changed and can be seen in the video when done.

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Now I test the new holding block. The short legs hold the shape while I tuck the join in and under and then with tape I completely surround the section.DSC00877_resize.JPG

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The next step is to now insert into the bottom cup in this case fully and then the tool can slide out. It is a firm push in and an easy slide out. Just what I wanted.

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More exciting stuff next.

 

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Awesome, lovin' this!

Question, what software do you use to create the 3D shapes for printing?

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6 hours ago, motocouture said:

Awesome, lovin' this!

Question, what software do you use to create the 3D shapes for printing?

Glad to hear you like it. I've been thinking its got to boring. Should be getting close to finished now. I use mostly Auto Cad for the drawings as that is what I've used for years with the pattern work and then convert the files to stl files. Any 3d printer will work with them and Cura is where the instructions get sorted. For instance the block being printed above is at 30% density and the cups are printed at100%. There are quite a few free various versions out there now.

I will now show how I insert the foam section. A few dabs of pva glue work well here.

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A new locating ring helps to position the foam and acts like a piston ring compressor.The same tool is used to form the velvet over the foam block before this step.

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A little push in here sits it into the glue as well.

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Next is the lid section and first is to insert the satin embossed logo. A dab of contact holds this in place and is further held by lids Grosgrain piece.

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Below I am preparing a packing strip before the Grosgrain strip goes into place.

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Next picture shows thepacker strip attached and it now gets a layer of contact put on to hold the Grosgrain strip in place.

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After this I allow the contact to dry for an hour or more. Next steps should be the finish off pictures.

 

 

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Now I make up the strip for the lid section in a similar method to the bottom section after the contact glue is dry enough.

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After the ring is made ready I push this piece into the cup and then follow this with another tool to press down on the

outer edges of the ring.

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I hope you have enjoyed learning how these ring boxes are made so far and I must mention the customer I make this product for

as she is a wonderful young lady named Sally and I can assure you she strives to have all of her products made to the highest possible
standard and give her customers a truly wonderful service. Here is the link and please take a look.

. http://www.amonie.com.au/?v=6cc98ba2045f

Sally has assured me that if you mention seeing this post on Leatherworker.net she will supply it FREE of freight charges.:thumbsup:

 

There is one more section to add to this and that is where I do the monogramming and that is also done for you with No extra Charge.

 

 

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These are very beautiful Brian. I've enjoyed reading every step. I marvel at how you are able to create whatever tools you need to accomplish a task. Thanks for sharing.

Chuck

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Thanks Chuck. I hope that the video is going to be better. Please have a look at Sally's site as her pictures leave mine for dead I think.

I'm thinking of making up a watch box version along a similar construction but I might have to find me an ideal marketer for that first.

Ahh so many ideas and so little time....Brian

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Thank you Brian and I must say I am most envious of your quality control K9.... he looks like a great shop companion.

Edited by plinkercases
typos

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On 23/09/2017 at 10:35 AM, plinkercases said:

Thank you Brian and I must say I am most envious of your quality control K9.... he looks like a great shop companion.

Thanks for the acknowledgement and he is a she and typical of great dane's and wolfhounds she loves to lay around everywhere. Mostly she loves laying in the busiest crossroad paths in the factory and therefore I think your envy is not always so well shared. :unsure:

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She's just trying to keep your priorities right.   Dog first, work second.:lol:

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6 hours ago, LumpenDoodle2 said:

She's just trying to keep your priorities right.   Dog first, work second.:lol:

thanks for the chuckle LumpenDoodle2...

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Fascinating. Thanks for sharing!

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Here's how I go about the embossing and monogramming of these boxes. Because many of the products I make get done in batches on a regular basis it is necessary to have a quick change over system.The first 2 pictures show how with a cardboard template that gets screwed down to the embossers base plate I can do a quick change from 1 piece to the next.

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For the monogramming I have set it up to enable me to achieve this after the product is fully made by setting up a sturdy holding ring that retains the block that supports the pressure of the embossing.

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Some time back I was lucky enough to pick up a font set called Redwood and it is very nice in this application I think.

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As I have a few to do and while the machine is heating up I go through and get out all of the letters that are going to be needed. It takes awhile to learn to set it all up backwards at first.

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This is what it looks like set up in the holding block

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The ring box lid is now set up for the stamping

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This is what can happen due to the foam under the leather. Gold everywhere:dunno:That's alright I am used to making mistakes and know how to fix.

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In order to not have to fix any more on the run I have made up some protection pieces. Here I have tested with a pre stamping first.

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Foil being located

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And success:thumbsup:

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All done. Thanks for looking and I hope that something in here inspires some or has something that you can make use of.

I am working on some video stuff on this product but I only got 10 minutes or so on this run.

Follow me if you want to be notified when the video is loaded and please make any comments that could make it better.

Regards Brian

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Thanks again Brian. Always interesting. I have a couple of Kingsley machines myself. They use to be made just down the street from me. 

Chuck

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22 hours ago, chuckgaudette said:

Thanks again Brian. Always interesting. I have a couple of Kingsley machines myself. They use to be made just down the street from me. 

Chuck

I was lucky to be given this one from an old business friend that now runs an upholstery business called "Swains Canvas" here in Rockhampton. I was telling Pete I could use  another one  and he kindly gave it to me for as long as I want it. Love good business relationships.

They are great little machines for this "type" of thing.:P I have three of them so I hope to be able to keep this one sort of permanently set up for this job. Mostly I like their type sets as they always high quality and I have not found any decent copiers of them yet. What fonts and sizes do you have Chuck?

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I have a set of 12pt san serif. Some generic font I don't know what the name of it is. But what I use most is 48pt Lydian caps for monograming handbags. It a nice sans serif with just enough style.  I also had my brother make a makers mark for me out of brass on his CNC machine that fits the Kingsley holder

Chuck

BucketBag-Red.jpg

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I wish I had a brother like that.:unsure: That is a nice looking bag and the embossing font looks excellent. Well done.

I'm pretty pleased with myself today as I just found out we have made a sale into China on a ring box. Normally we only get products made from Croc selling there.:thumbsup: Brian

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That was a great look into all the behind the scenes work that goes into those boxes!  Thanks for posting it!

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23 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

I wish I had a brother like that.:unsure: That is a nice looking bag and the embossing font looks excellent. Well done.

I'm pretty pleased with myself today as I just found out we have made a sale into China on a ring box. Normally we only get products made from Croc selling there.:thumbsup: Brian

Hopefully they aren't looking at your construction methods and making a pattern off of the new box so it can be made and sold cheaper...

Those boxes turned out awesome, your ingenuity shines through in your fabrication!

YinTx

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4 hours ago, Grey Drakkon said:

That was a great look into all the behind the scenes work that goes into those boxes!  Thanks for posting it!

Glad you enjoyed it and I hope the video does a more entertaining view of the process. Just go an order for another 60 of them so The video will probably get finished some before Christmas.   :unsure: Brian

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1 hour ago, YinTx said:

Hopefully they aren't looking at your construction methods and making a pattern off of the new box so it can be made and sold cheaper...

Those boxes turned out awesome, your ingenuity shines through in your fabrication!

YinTx

They well could be, but that is just a part of the fun of this is it not? You just raise the bar and keep looking at ways to raise it higher and better etc. I find a lot more fun in designing these things than making them in the bulk orders that invariably they lead onto. I have orders for products to last some years to come yet so ... :dunno: Some I know like to keep with the past traditional ways of doing their leather work but I get bored easily and love finding ways to stretch the boundaries all the time. Keeps me better amused.:)Participating in a forum like LW  and occasionally seeing something new and interesting helps us all to become better at what we do and sometimes love. Brian

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