Tanner's Bond Contact Cement - why isn't it working?

[teresamwong]

I need a really strong glue to attach small things - leather logo, small patches to cover hardware, etc. - on handbags. I recently bought Tanner's Bond Contact Cement from Tandy. The sales guy said I would need a crow bar to remove stuff with this glue... but half the stuff I have glued just peels right off, quite easily. In some cases it is working. What't the deal?

I need a really, fail proof glue. Would prefer water based so as not to have the chemicals since I work in my house and have a dog at my side. But I am only using this for a few minutes a day. I want something badass that won't come apart.

Please help! Teresa

 

[Bodean]

So are you gluing finished leather to finished leather, or leather to metal? Just trying to get a visual.

[garypl]

Sounds like the surfaces are not holding the glue due to some type of finish or film on the surfaces.  Suggest you roughen the surfaces with some fine sandpaper to give the glue something to grip.  Do it on a test piece and see if it helps!

[teresamwong]

Thanks to both of you. I am trying to glue leather to leather, and in some cases there is metal from the hardware backing.

I will try sanding. I did not do that before and I think that may be one issue.

Thanks for the replies! Teresa

 

[Northmount]

2 minutes ago, teresamwong said:

Thanks to both of you. I am trying to glue leather to leather, and in some cases there is metal from the hardware backing.

I will try sanding. I did not do that before and I think that may be one issue.

Thanks for the replies! Teresa

 

Use a coarse sandpaper to really roughen the surfaces that are being glued together.  Gives a "tooth" for the glue/contact cement to get into.  Smooth is an enemy in this case.  Follow the directions.  Apply cement to both surfaces.  Let it dry to hardly tacky at all.  Then press together.  Roll it with a roller, or tap it with a smooth faced hammer to help bond it.  Some have more success with heating it a little.

Tom

[Studio-N]

you didn't say, but make sure you're applying the glue to both surfaces not just one.

 

[teresamwong]

Thanks Tom and Studio-N. I am applying as directed, to both surfaces, but did not sand. I am going to try that now.

Teresa

[Ed in Tx]

I don't think Tanners Bond Contact Cement was intended as the sole medium to bond materials like you are doing. I use the product on a regular basis, however, I also sew the materials together. I make belts, wallets, gun holsters etc. using Tanners Bond.

Using it alone might be possible if you were using regular vegetable tanned leather with no finish on it at all. If you are using upholstery leather or garment leather they have a finish and may be chrome tanned which might impact the ability to have a solid bond.

[Mark842]

I've never had much luck with Tanners Bond Cement available now. The old stuff use to work great. When they changed it up so it was EPA compliant it went to crap in my opinion.

My go to for a permanent bond leather to leather is barges cement..toxic as hell with its fumes so make sure you have ventilation but it works great. if your gluing flesh side to fleah side just follow the directions. If your gluing to a finished side either sand it a bit like others have said or just scruff up the finished surface. I keep half a hack saw blade on the bench for this. A couple of quick rubs back and forth over the area you want to glue and your good to go. In my experience if you try to separate pieces glued with barge's you will rip the leather before you break the bond of the glue.

[teresamwong]

Thanks Ed and Mark. I will give Barges a try. I did have better results with the Tanners when I let it dry longer and sanded the finished sides. I appreciate the advice from everyone!!!

[zfcjr67]

In addition to Barge's, I've had luck with Tandy's Leather Weld.  I use it for attaching linings to the insides of bags.  Never had a problem with it coming up or separating, even in wet weather conditions.