How to make a press for moulding leather pouches and such

[RockyAussie]

Recently I made a lot of personal alarm pouches for the local prison here. They now want a heap of other types of pouches, starting with handcuff pouches. As I have to be able to do 100 or more at a time I will need to make a quick change press able to apply a fair amount of pressure. The moulds I hope to be able to print out on the 3d printer and in such a way that they can clip together once they are pressed down. More on that later. As they will need a fair time to dry out I will need to have quite a few moulds.

First I have to have this prototype ready within a week so this press wont be pretty but must be strong.

The press I am thinking of making up is a bit like a book press in operation perhaps. At this stage I am thinking of a 4' stair tread cut into three and 4 pieces of 3/4" threaded rod to strap them together. To apply pressure I am thinking to cut up an old office chair which has a nice large thread under it that allows for height adjustment. Its nice and heavy and should be strong enough I think. The second thought is to screw in a car scissor jack and fast turn it with a socket and battery drill. For now I have loaded a couple of pictures that I found online that give a rough idea of what I am thinking.

I would like anyone's thoughts and examples if they have any before I go ahead. As I said time is short so I will need input by Thursday if you have any. Thanks ahead for any help offered. Brian

[mikesc]

Number one is , IMO, the more practical of the two..re scissor jacks, you can get more pressure ( and they may be more stable, and faster to use ) with a "bottle jack" and so the movable element goes upwards.Some home made shoe presses work that way.A ready made system that could do multiple units at a time ( with the movement downwards as per your ideas ) could be made from a hydraulic bearing press, the kind that small garages use, here they are around $300.00, or less, ( various widths ) of usable area, and I'm sure that you have compressed air ( only needs around 6 kilos pressure ) around to drive them.

Edited October 10, 2017 by mikesc

[Stetson912]

I'm not sure how large those are. I've seen a few holster makers mould their holsters using a 6 ton hydraulic press and foam rubber. That may work for what you need depending on how much detail you want. It should give the basic shape. Besides, I'm not sure hand cuffs have much detail to mold anyhow right?

[Stetson912]

You could also try vacuum forming if that appeals to you. That may be more expensive to start up though if you don't already have the items for it. I'm thinking, depending on the size bag you get, you could fit 10 cases at a time in it and mold them all at once. 

[Itch]

Here is a bearing press we use for holsters  https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html

[CaptQuirk]

Question about presses and leather forming... What are you putting against the leather to form with? I mean, is it a foam pad, or something else to force the leather into all the nooks and crannies?

[Stetson912]

That's my understanding, with the hydraulic presses it's usually some sort of foam rubber padding that the piece is sandwiched between. I can't comment to the exact material though. 

[RockyAussie]

5 hours ago, Itch said:

Here is a bearing press we use for holsters  https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html

Thanks Itch, I had considered something similar but over here the price is maybe 3 times that delivered. The hydraulic part of it makes me think a little slow for getting it down but maybe not.Another against it a little is floor space. I would like to tuck under a bench when not being used.I might just get 1 anyway. Brian

 

1 hour ago, CaptQuirk said:

Question about presses and leather forming... What are you putting against the leather to form with? I mean, is it a foam pad, or something else to force the leather into all the nooks and crannies?

The mould I am hoping to use is a pla printed shape that I hope will do the job. One for the inside shape and one for the outer to force down over. As long as I can get these 2 to come together enough I hope to have clips in the bottom mould which clip up and hold the top mould in place. Then the plot is take it out of the press to dry and start a new one again. I haven't finished the drawings of yet but I will try and load up something later today. For the trial/prototype version it wont have the holding clips.

I have loaded some pics of a pouch that is a little similar to what I want to make (the leather one) and the fabric one they presently use along with the 2 styles of hand cuffs that the pouch must accommodate. The larger set are 27mm deep (bit over an inch).

[RockyAussie]

12 hours ago, mikesc said:

Number one is , IMO, the more practical of the two..re scissor jacks, you can get more pressure ( and they may be more stable, and faster to use ) with a "bottle jack" and so the movable element goes upwards.Some home made shoe presses work that way.A ready made system that could do multiple units at a time ( with the movement downwards as per your ideas ) could be made from a hydraulic bearing press, the kind that small garages use, here they are around $300.00, or less, ( various widths ) of usable area, and I'm sure that you have compressed air ( only needs around 6 kilos pressure ) around to drive them.

Thanks Mikesc, I am tempted to look at the scissor jack idea. It would probably be quicker to make up and I would not need any great turning handle. Would make packing away later a bit more tidy as well. Will see what other ideas come by the end of the day. Brian

[RockyAussie]

8 hours ago, Stetson912 said:

You could also try vacuum forming if that appeals to you. That may be more expensive to start up though if you don't already have the items for it. I'm thinking, depending on the size bag you get, you could fit 10 cases at a time in it and mold them all at once. 

Thanks Stetson912, I have a vacuum press but 1 its not big enough for more than say 2 at a time and 2 once the membrane is down I cant clip the moulds together to take out and dry. TBH I have only ever used the vacuum for one off type casting with leather forming. With plastics moulding they cool off within seconds and therefor no problem as such. What I have to allow for is although I may only get an order of 100 to start with that can easily go to 200 and so on. That often happens with stuff I make and it is best to think what is the next step. If it takes of I will dig out a large pneumatic press I have in storage and remake with that. At present it is a back part moulder as is used when forming the back part of shoes surrounding the heel counter area. Weighs a ton and chews up a lot of floor area. Thanks again for now. Brian

[Dwight]

1 hour ago, Stetson912 said:

That's my understanding, with the hydraulic presses it's usually some sort of foam rubber padding that the piece is sandwiched between. I can't comment to the exact material though. 

I built a hydraulic press a number of years ago, . . . used gum rubber, . . . 40 durometer, . . . 2 layers above, . . . 2 below, . . . all were 2 inches thick.

I scrapped it in favor of vacuum press for holsters when I started getting a bunch of "plastic fantastic" handguns, . . . just afraid that the extra pull on the handle might wind up helping me own a cracked handgun.

I'd never go back after using the vacuum, . . . wish I had gone to it before hand, . . . 

May God bless,

Dwight

[Stetson912]

To that's what I was trying to think of. Thanks @Dwight as usual. I want a small vacuum press just can't afford it haha.

[WoodysWorkshop]

7 hours ago, Itch said:

Here is a bearing press we use for holsters  https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html

I will 2nd the bearing press.

If you have mig welder, or a buddy that does...possibilities are nearly endless and economical.

If you look into a good wood working vise which would fin the range of your first picture, you will find out they are more than the HF bearing press.

And that is just the frame and threads...and you build to suite you.

And not as strong as a bearing press.

If you invest in some clamps, you can clamp the 1/2's together once pressed.

The molds I've made so far I did with my dremel and used Bessy Mite-y-Mini 6" clamps I kept from my wood shop to clamp them together and hold over night.

[JD62]

Hi Brian,  I like your first idea for a first run. If you make the top that the screw attaches to good and heavy you can make the side posts as long as you need. You then add platens about 2" thick on top of the first layer of molds, add a second layer and so on. The foot print stays the same but you just keep going up and the pressure stays about the same for all layers. I would think that after a half hour you could pull them out and they would hold shape until you lock the molds.

[Dwight]

My hydraulic press cost me a total of about $50 if I recall correctly for the rubber, . . . $15 for a 6 ton bottle jack, . . . and some 2 x 4's, . . . plus some bolt.

The steel press frame is totally overkill for what is needed, . . . BUT, . . . you don't have to build it, . . . 

 

I bought a $99 vacuum pump at Harbor freight, . . . $20 worth the vinyl at JoAnn's fabric, . . . and a couple pieces of scrap tubing, . . . 

Made a perfectly functional vacuum system for under $150.

The tool is more than anything not an end in itself, . . . just something to make it easier to get to that end.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Wedgetail]

Sending you a PM Brian.

[LumpenDoodle2]

Dwights hydraulic press is certainly the quickest and simplest to put together.   The press area can be adusted to suit, without much additional work, and the floor space is also minimum.    I use the hubby's 10t bearing press, for some projects,  and when not in use, it takes up about 2 1/2' by 1' floor space, but I can extend the press area to 2' by 2', which suits my needs.

[RockyAussie]

Here are some pictures of the pla moulds I intend to try in the press. At this stage in the drawing I have not included any clips for keeping them attached together. I think before I go that far I will need to test the strength of the pla print in the application first. I have done a jpeg to show for all but if you want a more detailed look in the pdf file you can click the picture to activate it and then you can get the mould to spin around to whatever view you wish by just holding+ moving your mouse button.

1 hour ago, LumpenDoodle2 said:

Dwights hydraulic press is certainly the quickest and simplest to put together.   The press area can be adusted to suit, without much additional work, and the floor space is also minimum.    I use the hubby's 10t bearing press, for some projects,  and when not in use, it takes up about 2 1/2' by 1' floor space, but I can extend the press area to 2' by 2', which suits my needs.

I have seen Dwights press previously when doing my homework on this and there is a lot of good ideas in the construction of it. I think so far what I am likely to do will be quicker and cheaper and have the advantage of being able to down and up with minimal effort and time. I will have some draft drawings and pictures as I go soon.

My goal on the press is to cost under $100 au and 2 hours to construct. It will have the leeway to allow for various pressure methods and stronger if needed. Did not say it will be pretty.

9 hours ago, JD62 said:

Hi Brian,  I like your first idea for a first run. If you make the top that the screw attaches to good and heavy you can make the side posts as long as you need. You then add platens about 2" thick on top of the first layer of molds, add a second layer and so on. The foot print stays the same but you just keep going up and the pressure stays about the same for all layers. I would think that after a half hour you could pull them out and they would hold shape until you lock the molds.

Thanks for thoughts JD62, I hadn't though about stacking them on top of each other as the moulds I hope will be a quick in and out process. Good idea though I think.

Thank you everyone for your inputs so far. Regards Brian

HANDCUFF POUCH 3Da.pdf

[LumpenDoodle2]

Meant to add, the hubby's press has a heavy spring, which when you relase the jack, pulls the plate back up.

[RockyAussie]

8 minutes ago, LumpenDoodle2 said:

Meant to add, the hubby's press has a heavy spring, which when you relase the jack, pulls the plate back up.

Noted. I still would not mind getting one except I'd have to keep it out in another shed and the hydraulic action I think would be a bit slower than I want.. The cost here is about $300+ and probably need to be ordered in. Thanks again.

[MY63]

I usually use wooden moulds for forming leather so don't have any experience of printed ones. if you are concerned about strength why not add a top to the upper part. Or make them stackable and add the top part to the base of the second one to sit on top.

I hope that makes sense the first base will be flat the second one will have the top of the first as part of its base.

I used a similar style of handcuffs during my service the press stud fastener had a longer tab after the stud to make it quick release, generally when you need handcuffs you need them quickly. 

[RockyAussie]

4 hours ago, MY63 said:

I usually use wooden moulds for forming leather so don't have any experience of printed ones. if you are concerned about strength why not add a top to the upper part. Or make them stackable and add the top part to the base of the second one to sit on top.

I hope that makes sense the first base will be flat the second one will have the top of the first as part of its base.

I used a similar style of handcuffs during my service the press stud fastener had a longer tab after the stud to make it quick release, generally when you need handcuffs you need them quickly. 

Like you I have mostly only ever done moulds with wood and I have not done any with pla before. What worries me is the very tight fit for such a high wall. If it fails I will try a little wider opening and make it a little higher and more rounded off. I hope to have it work out as the advantage with the 3d printing is that although it takes hours to do them they all come out the same and you can keep on working on other stuff while that is happening. If that fails I'll probably just get a heap of outer shell parts laser cut out of aluminium or something.

Thanks for mentioning the quick release I will check for that in my design. Regards Brian

[plinkercases]

I use a press made with a wine press screw unit and for the kind of forming you are doing.... works just fine and cheep... and I get a little exercise..

for the kind of moulding over something for detailing I use a one inch sheet of 40 duro and also work just fine but I still prefer hand molding/boning for the volume I do...which is very low.

[RockyAussie]

That is a nice and strong  looking press there @plinkercases. sort of looks a bit like you've used a step tread the other way to what I'm thinking. Here is the plans for what I am thinking and a list of the parts and costs so far. In the second picture you see -

2 x 3' threaded rods at 3/4" round = $31.80au

16 nuts to suit =$11.04au

16 washes to suit =$6.72au

1 x stair tread at 4' long by 2" thick hardwood (Very dense) = $34.40au

Scissor jack from the wreckers ( short one for Honda civic) $10.00 au

Total so far $93.95

Still to get 1 of  3/8"x 2- 1/2" bolt and nut and 4 screws to attach jack to moving board.

I will do some pictures of the making this weekend.   Brian

PS. I know I didn't draw the thread on the rods or even the jack either .........SO WHAT .... and 38mm is close enough to 2"

[Double Daddy]

I, myself, went with a vacuum setup, in the same fashion as the one by Particle and a few others...veneering bag and Harbor Freight pump along with misc. hosing and pieces...super-easy to use (can mold multiple items at once) with good results. Additionally, I've seen some fine work many of the craftsmen on here have delivered using vertical presses like Plinker and Dwight have shown above.

Brian, I look forward to seeing how your build goes...