JHayek Report post Posted October 22, 2017 Finished this last week but been to busy to post pics till now. Comments welcome as well as critiques Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldshot Ron Report post Posted October 23, 2017 Saddle looks good. What are some of the specs.? Tree maker, type of leather, etc.. Are you entering this into the Pendleton Leather Show saddle contest? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JHayek Report post Posted October 23, 2017 Sunny Felkins 58 wade tree herman oak leather. It's already at its new home so no I'm not entering it at Pendleton. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Josh Ashman Report post Posted October 23, 2017 That's a very clean looking saddle. Great job! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rktaylor Report post Posted October 23, 2017 Nice looking saddle. It looks really balanced. Thanks for sharing. Randy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rolandranch Report post Posted October 23, 2017 Very nice! Do you have any pics of the tooling on the horn cap? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JHayek Report post Posted October 23, 2017 Thanks for the compliments. Here's the horn cap pic Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rolandranch Report post Posted October 23, 2017 Thanks for the pic. Looks great! And that's a lot of stitching. What type of thread do you use and do you use the same thread for the cantel binding? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JHayek Report post Posted October 23, 2017 I just use the same bonded thread that I use on my cobra 4 (277 @ 7 per inch) only I slick it with beeswax first and use 2 needles like sewing with linen thread. It gives a consistent look throughout matching the machine stitching and yes I use the same on the cantle. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kseidel Report post Posted October 26, 2017 Nice looking saddle Jon. Clean and neat and well made. May I add a critique...mostly related to design... skirt shape does not match seat and jockey shapes. Skirt should have a fuller rear corner to match jockey (or change jockey shape to match skirt). Side seat jockey is a bit too deep down the side, and a bit too short front to back. Follow the cantle line around the seat jockey and back thru the front of the swell. This is cosmetic, and wont affect the functionality of the saddle. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JHayek Report post Posted October 26, 2017 Thanks for the comment Keith I appreciate your taking the time to critique it. Look at it now I see what you are saying about the front to back line on the side jockey and I will take that into account on the next one. As far as the skirt and jockey or rear housins are concerned I was trying to cover an oversight in my construction and evidently I missed the mark. I needed to cover the top of the rigging and. I tried to blend the rear and bottom lines to do so but the better fix would have been to raise the rear D about 3/4 on an inch Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Billy H Report post Posted October 27, 2017 Great looking saddle! Will serve your customer well and Roughout will only get better with time. Billy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kseidel Report post Posted October 28, 2017 On 10/26/2017 at 10:28 AM, JHayek said: As far as the skirt and jockey or rear housins are concerned I was trying to cover an oversight in my construction and evidently I missed the mark. I needed to cover the top of the rigging and. I tried to blend the rear and bottom lines to do so but the better fix would have been to raise the rear D about 3/4 on an inch Yes, raising the rear dee would have been the proper adjustment to maintain the shallower, larger radius of the rear jockey to match the skirt. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mudman Report post Posted November 4, 2017 Nice looking saddle, thanks for sharing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OLDNSLOW Report post Posted November 17, 2017 you mention that you sew with the cobra 4 and then mention 2 needles would clarify that for me. thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ken Nelson Report post Posted November 18, 2017 I believe he is talking about hand sewing the horn and cantle binding by hand when referring to the two needles, not the Cobra Class 4. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OLDNSLOW Report post Posted November 19, 2017 ya I went back and reread the post and it sounds like he buck stiches the horn and it comes out looking like the stich from a cobra 4. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JHayek Report post Posted November 20, 2017 I see there is some confusion about the stitching. I use 277 nylon thead with 2 needles and wax it just like its linen thread. Its a standard lockstich just done with nylon so the look and material is the same as the rest of the saddle. The reference to my cobra 4 is I walk over to the cobra and pull off the amount of thread I need. Hope that clears it up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OLDNSLOW Report post Posted November 21, 2017 yup thanks!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kseidel Report post Posted November 21, 2017 Now I am confused.... Did you stitch your horn and cantle using a "saddle stitch" using two needles crossing the threads in the hole as you progress, or a "lockstitch" using a hook and pulling a loop from one side that the thread from the other side is threaded thru and then pulling the "lock" into the center? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OLDNSLOW Report post Posted November 21, 2017 I think he did the hand sewn lock stitch, that's what he wrote then I wrote something else. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
