Members JHayek Posted October 22, 2017 Author Members Report Posted October 22, 2017 Finished this last week but been to busy to post pics till now. Comments welcome as well as critiques Quote
Members Goldshot Ron Posted October 23, 2017 Members Report Posted October 23, 2017 Saddle looks good. What are some of the specs.? Tree maker, type of leather, etc.. Are you entering this into the Pendleton Leather Show saddle contest? Quote
Members JHayek Posted October 23, 2017 Author Members Report Posted October 23, 2017 Sunny Felkins 58 wade tree herman oak leather. It's already at its new home so no I'm not entering it at Pendleton. Quote
Members Josh Ashman Posted October 23, 2017 Members Report Posted October 23, 2017 That's a very clean looking saddle. Great job! Quote
rktaylor Posted October 23, 2017 Report Posted October 23, 2017 Nice looking saddle. It looks really balanced. Thanks for sharing. Randy Quote
Members Rolandranch Posted October 23, 2017 Members Report Posted October 23, 2017 Very nice! Do you have any pics of the tooling on the horn cap? Quote
Members JHayek Posted October 23, 2017 Author Members Report Posted October 23, 2017 Thanks for the compliments. Here's the horn cap pic Quote
Members Rolandranch Posted October 23, 2017 Members Report Posted October 23, 2017 Thanks for the pic. Looks great! And that's a lot of stitching. What type of thread do you use and do you use the same thread for the cantel binding? Quote
Members JHayek Posted October 23, 2017 Author Members Report Posted October 23, 2017 I just use the same bonded thread that I use on my cobra 4 (277 @ 7 per inch) only I slick it with beeswax first and use 2 needles like sewing with linen thread. It gives a consistent look throughout matching the machine stitching and yes I use the same on the cantle. Quote
Members kseidel Posted October 26, 2017 Members Report Posted October 26, 2017 Nice looking saddle Jon. Clean and neat and well made. May I add a critique...mostly related to design... skirt shape does not match seat and jockey shapes. Skirt should have a fuller rear corner to match jockey (or change jockey shape to match skirt). Side seat jockey is a bit too deep down the side, and a bit too short front to back. Follow the cantle line around the seat jockey and back thru the front of the swell. This is cosmetic, and wont affect the functionality of the saddle. Quote
Members JHayek Posted October 26, 2017 Author Members Report Posted October 26, 2017 Thanks for the comment Keith I appreciate your taking the time to critique it. Look at it now I see what you are saying about the front to back line on the side jockey and I will take that into account on the next one. As far as the skirt and jockey or rear housins are concerned I was trying to cover an oversight in my construction and evidently I missed the mark. I needed to cover the top of the rigging and. I tried to blend the rear and bottom lines to do so but the better fix would have been to raise the rear D about 3/4 on an inch Quote
Members Billy H Posted October 27, 2017 Members Report Posted October 27, 2017 Great looking saddle! Will serve your customer well and Roughout will only get better with time. Billy Quote
Members kseidel Posted October 28, 2017 Members Report Posted October 28, 2017 On 10/26/2017 at 10:28 AM, JHayek said: As far as the skirt and jockey or rear housins are concerned I was trying to cover an oversight in my construction and evidently I missed the mark. I needed to cover the top of the rigging and. I tried to blend the rear and bottom lines to do so but the better fix would have been to raise the rear D about 3/4 on an inch Yes, raising the rear dee would have been the proper adjustment to maintain the shallower, larger radius of the rear jockey to match the skirt. Quote
Members mudman Posted November 4, 2017 Members Report Posted November 4, 2017 Nice looking saddle, thanks for sharing. Quote
Members OLDNSLOW Posted November 17, 2017 Members Report Posted November 17, 2017 you mention that you sew with the cobra 4 and then mention 2 needles would clarify that for me. thanks Quote
Members Ken Nelson Posted November 18, 2017 Members Report Posted November 18, 2017 I believe he is talking about hand sewing the horn and cantle binding by hand when referring to the two needles, not the Cobra Class 4. Quote
Members OLDNSLOW Posted November 19, 2017 Members Report Posted November 19, 2017 ya I went back and reread the post and it sounds like he buck stiches the horn and it comes out looking like the stich from a cobra 4. Quote
Members JHayek Posted November 20, 2017 Author Members Report Posted November 20, 2017 I see there is some confusion about the stitching. I use 277 nylon thead with 2 needles and wax it just like its linen thread. Its a standard lockstich just done with nylon so the look and material is the same as the rest of the saddle. The reference to my cobra 4 is I walk over to the cobra and pull off the amount of thread I need. Hope that clears it up. Quote
Members kseidel Posted November 21, 2017 Members Report Posted November 21, 2017 Now I am confused.... Did you stitch your horn and cantle using a "saddle stitch" using two needles crossing the threads in the hole as you progress, or a "lockstitch" using a hook and pulling a loop from one side that the thread from the other side is threaded thru and then pulling the "lock" into the center? Quote
Members OLDNSLOW Posted November 21, 2017 Members Report Posted November 21, 2017 I think he did the hand sewn lock stitch, that's what he wrote then I wrote something else. Quote
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