Good Finish for a Field Holster?

[steelhawk]

I'm making a holster similar to the Hunter style of field holsters. With my regular holsters, I use Resolene for the finish. This leaves them stiff. 

I want this holster to retain the normal leather flexibility. With this end in mind, I'm not sure what to use. Suggestions, anyone?

[alpha2]

I use a mixture of beeswax, neetsfoot oil, paraffin and glycerin. It restores some of the softness lost to alcohol dyes, and gives it some water resistance. It does make whatever color you have, a bit darker, though. I plan for that. There's also Fiebings spray finish. I've used that a lot in the past. Numerous light coats, buffed between.

[K5HEP]

Sno Seal works great for any outdoor leather use. I use it on everything from holsters to boots. Do some google research and see what you think. I highly recommend it...

 

Edited February 19, 2018 by K5HEP

[alpha2]

Sno Seal worked just fine decades ago in Michigan. We used it on everything. Because everything in Michigan got wet. A lot.

It says "ORIGINAL Bees Wax Waterproofing...Hmm, my solution has beeswax. Looks like they just did the work for me. 

But, my in-laws with the bees really love giving me the beeswax. They like to see it put to good use. Lip balm is great...but so limited.

[Josh Ashman]

I use a Fiebings Aussie wax a lot on field holsters and tack. It's similar to Sno Seal, which I have also used. My preference is the Aussie wax which is textured about like Vaseline but I have nothing against Sno Seal and it's easier to find. With either I like to "work" them into the leather. I rub a generous amount on then set the item in the sun for a few hours until it's no longer visible. If there's no sun I'll put them somewhere it gets uncomfortably hot (attic, dash of a parked truck, etc.). I have heard of people using a heat gun or hair dryer to work it in, but I've always been able to find a place I can set it and let time work it in. Once it's "melted" into the leather it's fairly dull. If I want a little "glow" I'll rub on some glycerin saddle soap.

All the best, Josh

[K5HEP]

The key to using Sno Seal is warming up the leather to open up the pores. For small items I use the kitchen oven set at 150 deg F and for larger item such as boots, I will use the wife's hair dryer. I work it in really well with my hands and let the piece set out in the hot sun afterwards. As Josh stated, for a little shine a bar of glycerin saddle soap will do a good job...

[Double Daddy]

Good information, folks...thanks! I will give a look around locally for the Aussie or Sno Seal. I also have a few repeat customers that are adamant about not having any sort of acrylic coating on their field gear...just an oil finish. Got one old hillbilly, in particular...only wants pure neetsfoot on his field holsters...thus, they get a dose of that after going thru the molding, drying cabinet, etc. Normally, I use a saddle soap/NFO combo for a rub-down...it enriches the dried out leather, darkens and blends the color a bit while making it a little richer in depth. Afterward, I'll buff it slightly on a cotton wheel to take away any dullness or soap boogers I might have missed.

[Dave Richardson]

You could consider latigo leather, no finished needed.

[steelhawk]

I ended up using Aussie wax, then put them in a warm, but not too warm, oven to melt it in.  They turned out nice and the customer liked them.  I will post some pictures later.  Thanks for the help.