work boot making equipment

[utah leather]

does anyone here know where I can get the tools and equipment to make my own work boots

[johnv474]

First, I'll say that shoe and bootmaking is a big endeavor, and you certainly will not save money in making your own, unless you have lots of time and are willing to do most of it by hand.

 

You will need lasts (forms) to work around that are in the size and style you want.  Shoe-last-shop.com is one option.

 

You will need a patching sewing machine, similar to a Singer 29k, for sewing the uppers together (or, do by hand).

 

You will need knives for cutting and skiving, cements, etc.

 

You will need either a McKay or a curved needle like a Landis 12 for sewing the uppers and soles together. (Or, do this by hand, like D W Frommer from thehcc.org).

 

You will want sanding equipment (belt sander) in 24 to 120 grit, and about 2 more grits between.

 

There's more.  Check ebay and Craigslist for shoe repair equipment.  Much of it overlaps with shoemaking equipment.

[bikermutt07]

On 3/5/2018 at 7:01 AM, utah leather said:

does anyone here know where I can get the tools and equipment to make my own work boots

I am stepping into this same situation. 

Look a H.C.C.com Honourable Cordwainers Company. There is a lot of info there. A lot of which is free.

There is also 1 book I have found by Tim Skyrme called "Bespoke Shoemaking". I haven't ordered it yet. It seems to contain everything we might need to know.

This is a very all niche in leather work. Not much is available. But see what you can find.

[Aven]

6 hours ago, bikermutt07 said:

I am stepping into this same situation. 

Look a H.C.C.com Honourable Cordwainers Company. There is a lot of info there. A lot of which is free.

There is also 1 book I have found by Tim Skyrme called "Bespoke Shoemaking". I haven't ordered it yet. It seems to contain everything we might need to know.

This is a very all niche in leather work. Not much is available. But see what you can find.

The Bespoke Shoemaking is very informative, but it doesn't address patterning for boots.  Tim has a pattern cutting book that has a derby boot pattern,  as well as several other styles.  If you are considering making more than one pair and plan on teaching yourself, the book will be indispensable.   You might also want to add Handmade Shoes for Men to you library.  It isn't a step by step how to book per se, but it does fill in a few tidbits that that the other two leave out.

You don't have to work on a last.  The shoes/boots made that way tend be a bit more refined than an unlasted shoe/boot, but that's more about aesthetics than fit and function. Check out Healthy Handmade Shoes DVD.  It's five DVD's that walk you through the process of making an outstiched shoe using the foot as your last.  He does use a sewing machine and a sander to make the shoes, but if you have more time than money for a sewing machine, you can sew them by hand, it's just going to take you a lot longer.

If you would like to take a class, I would highly recommend Jason Hovatter's classes at Laughing Crowe.  He does an internal stitch down boot and a chukka boot class.  Classes are small so you get to see what he's doing and you don't get lost in a crowd.  They are in Portland and most are 4 days long.  I have been through two of his classes and will be going for a third in April.

In the vein of Healthy Handmade shoes, see if you can find a copy of Shoes for Free People by David and Inger Runk.  It's a 1976 DIY book that approaches making shoes/boots like the HHS DVD does.  They are all unlasted and are sewn by hand.

[bikermutt07]

Sadly, classes are well beyond my budget. I just bought Handmade Shoes for Men. It is much more a coffee table book than a how to. That was disappointing.

Even though Skyrmes book doesn't cover making boots, shouldn't I be able to figure them out by the time I make a few pairs of shoes?

I did buy a set of lasts off of eBay. They are so confusing to buy. These might even be deck or sneaker lasts. The have little to no heel height or toe spring in them. 

My plan is this..... Try to make a pair of shoes with this set of lasts. Then see how they fit my feet. Then try to adjust the lasts to my feet. Then make another pair. Then see how they fit. And so on....

I'm hoping with Tim's book I will be more apt at making the last adjustments.

[Aven]

I agree Handmade Shoes for Men is more of a coffee table book than not.  I got a bit out if it, but I admit it wasn't much.

Having looked at your stuff for a while now, as long as your last is a good fit to you and the style you're looking to make, I know that you'll get it figured out.  Your lasts sound like they are loafers/deck shoes.  They'll work, as long as you aren't going to put much of a heel (if any) on them.   Last are really tricky to buy off ebay.  If you think you found something that will work, ask them to measure it with a cloth tape, the length, the ball of the foot and the instep.  That should let you know if it will work for you.  You can build them up or carve them down only so much.  And as far as I know (which I readily admit isn't very much), you can't mess with the heel height of a last.  You pretty much have to use the heel height it was made to use.

For what its worth, Jason is in the process of doing a video for his stitch down boots.  You can see the trailer on Laughing Crowe, internal stitch down shoe class.   He also did a video for his turn shoes that I think is really well done.  Jason is a great teacher in person and it came though on the video as well.  Calen did a great job shooting the first one, I don't expect anything less for this one.  I believe the video will be done and ready to ship sometime in July.

Edited March 28, 2018 by Aven

[bikermutt07]

@Aven, I did see laughing crows preview for his boot tutorial. I seem to remember his price wasn't astronomical. So, I may be able to afford his video. I just made my mind up to try and make some after my last work show purchase. With shoes and inserts I spent 200.00 on a pair of redwings that still don't fit quite right.

As far as the lasts I have, I don't think I need much of a heel anyway. I broke both of my heels back in 2010 and really can't wear anything with a lot of height. Normally I wear an 11½ wide and these lasts are a 12. They seem wide enough, so I will probably be okay. The redwings I just bought had to be 12 EE.

As for actually building a pair of shoes, I have to finish the rearranging of my studio. It is almost halfway done, but Saturday work is really keeping me from getting it done.

Thanks for the insights.

[Evangela]

I have seen a set of plans for a work boot. They were for a pair of boots made from leather and wood. If you want to make a pair of boots like the ones in the picture, the first thing you need to do is find someone who works at a shoe or boot shop and has access to a large variety of tools.

[Evangela]

I have seen a set of plans for a work boot. They were for a pair of boots made from leather and wood. If you want to make a pair of boots like the ones in the picture, the first thing you need to do is find someone who works at a shoe or boot shop and has access to a large variety of tools. Anyway, I think it's best to order a good pair of boots from https://rockroosterfootwear.com/collections/ak-australian-collection. I ordered it last year, and I think it's the best one nowadays on the market.

Edited November 30, 2021 by Evangela

[Handstitched]

I have been asked if I  make boots, but I would need space twice the size of the workshop I have now  to consider it. I have cutting dies for the soles, and shoe lasts, but thats about it. 

HS

[Aven]

5 hours ago, bootgeeks01 said:

We have a wide range of work boot making equipment including sewing machines, stitching machine, cutting machines, if you are interesting then click here and more. We also offer a wide range of accessories and supplies. 

All I saw was guides to the best shoe/boot for... No equipment.  It also appears that you are an amazon reseller, not a boot maker.