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Caesar

How to keep my ruler from sliding?

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I try to be very gentle while scoring the leather on my first pass so that the ruler doesn't slide.  Then I cut through on my second pass.  I want to put something on the back of my ruler to keep it from sliding. 

Cork?  Doesn't seem that I can find any thin enough.

Something like this?  Cotton Friction Tape   I'm worried that it will leave marks on the leather.

What do you use?  Do you use anything?

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I use a large quilting ruler. They do make non-slip versions but mine's just a regular one. It doesn't slip very easily because of the huge surface area. It's also been a huge help in getting my corners square.0_20171006_232500.thumb.jpg.ce35abc590f1b99f6acf6c3f7e6b3905.jpg

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4 minutes ago, niakulah said:

I use a large quilting ruler. They do make non-slip versions but mine's just a regular one. It doesn't slip very easily because of the huge surface area. It's also been a huge help in getting my corners square.0_20171006_232500.thumb.jpg.ce35abc590f1b99f6acf6c3f7e6b3905.jpg

Thank you.  I may look into this in the future.  For now I'm looking more for something to put on the underside of my existing rulers / squares.

 

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Glue.... thin coat, let it dry thoroughly.

Too thick or too wet and it may mark your leather or pull up the surface finish (practice on scrap).

I use tanners bond contact cement.

You can do the same thing to acrylic or wooden templates.

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1 minute ago, Wedgetail said:

Glue.... thin coat, let it dry thoroughly.

Too thick or too wet and it may mark your leather or pull up the surface finish (practice on scrap).

I use tanners bond contact cement.

You can do the same thing to acrylic or wooden templates.

I'll try this.  I use Barge Cement.  I'm sure it works similarly.  Thanks!

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3 hours ago, Caesar said:

I'll try this.  I use Barge Cement.  I'm sure it works similarly.  Thanks!

No worries mate!

It gave me an idea for another quick tip video for my youtube channel :)

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This is what I used. Thin with an adhesive back and inexpensive. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0079XLR3A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hope this helps.71SnIqCB50L._SL1500_.jpg

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I tend to only use the ruler to mark the leather with an awl, then cut the leather freehand using a knife. Usually a round knife or an Olfa wheel. My big ruler has a handle on it so I can press pretty hard to stop it from moving about. Cutting the leather in one pass makes for a much neater edge.

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I have a 48” ruler bolted to the edge of my bench.  I loosen the bolt on one side, slip the leather under the ruler and align it, then tighten the bolt.  I press down on the ruler as I cut and it keeps the leather very secure while cutting.  For obvious reasons it will not work with pieces too large to fit under the ruler.

Gary

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I use non slip tape, it’s like sand paper and self adhesive.  It comes in different widths or you can cut to fit.  I think most good hardware stores carry it.  I put it on the back of my square, works great. I cut my leather flesh sid down.  Hope this helps!

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I just found this one.  Looks promising.  https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/tools/products/non-slip-japanese-ruler

Wish they had it in a square as well...

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I may try a couple sizes of these. Reason im considering and it may not make any difference, but the fact using a hot knife a lot sometimes I think the aluminum rules I have are heat sinks and cool the knife to much while using. :rolleyes2:

Yep I do put material right atop and hot knife a lot, small patern cutouts and such in poly or acrylic. To be honest the rules have been nice for a several years, using a 12 and two 18”.  Something I’m sure the same with both styles is the rubber or cork, it is slightly shy from the edges and so keeping pencil or knife pretty straight up is a new habit, just an fyi.

But in anycase they offer some rules in both stainless with cork back and others like I presently have in aluminum with thin black sponge rubber on the back.  Get a chance check these out.

https://www.dickblick.com/products/blick-stainless-steel-ruler/

https://www.dickblick.com/products/alumicolor-non-slip-straight-edge-ruler/#55952-9318

 

good day

Floyd

Edited by brmax

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I use a combination of the non-slip quilting rulers, cork backed, and long clamped down straight edges... one is a drywall square...now I will try the thin layer of glue on templates thanks for that idea.

Edited by plinkercases
typo

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Hello, I purchased some self adhering cork from Amazon, three pcs 8.5 X 11. It was extremely cheap like $3.00. I put it on the back of my T-Square and NO MORE SLIPPING. Definitely worth the three dollars. Hope this helps you. God Bless

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Rubber cement some wide rubber bands to the bottom. Or just paint the bottom with a generous coat of rubber cement all on its own.

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I tried gluing cheap bicycle handlebar tape but it turned out too thick for me, the tape is 3mm and while it is very soft under pressure it doesn't go easily under 2mm which is too much.

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On 3/14/2018 at 5:01 AM, lonesome dove said:

This is what I used. Thin with an adhesive back and inexpensive. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0079XLR3A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hope this helps.71SnIqCB50L._SL1500_.jpg

This stuff works great. I got the 8.5 X 11 sheets but it is the same stuff. 

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I was having some slippage issues with an acrylic template I just purchased.  It was slipping all over the place. To fix, I simply glued a couple strips of leather with the grain side attached to the template so that the flesh side was facing out.  Works like a charm, and leaves no marks on the leather I'm working with.

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A big reason for this problem, I believe, is that we tend to put pressure against the ruler with the cutting edge and also that the blade is on an angle.  I have been very intentional when coming to the end of a cut to try to hold the knife perpendicular to the surface rather than on an angle.  And also paying attention, so that the knife continues straight  at the end of the cut.  

 

This has helped a lot.

Edited by Basically Bob

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Don't try to cut all the way thru thick leather on the first pass. Not only do you take the chance of moving the ruler, but you take the chance of the knife skipping off the leather and onto the metal ruler, where it will continue with great speed; burying itself deeply into your left thumb, stopped only by its contact with bone. 

I got 12 stitches. 

And a chain mail glove to protect my left hand.

Edited by Sam I Am

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I usually use a scratch awl first, but when I want to cut large strips I use a contractors square, and with that, I added double sided tape, it sticks but does not mark the leather.

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