Stiching thinner leather <3/4oz

[billybopp]

You are correct.  Lately, folks have been referring to pricking irons as French or European style to help differentiate from pricking/stitching chisels that punch all the way through.  It's been quite confusing for a lot of folks, particularly newbies.  Maybe that terminology will help?

- Bill

[todahatelier]

Hi, 

I have a question on thread size to use to pair with the french iron.
I'm using a French iron 10TPI. What would be the recommended thread size
for au chinos thread if I'm going for a fine classy leather look?
Should I get the 632 or 832 thread size?
 

[Outfitr]

I've watched Armitage youtubes and stitch exactly how he shows but alway get a very pronounced zig zag on the back and a less pronounced almost straight on the front.....and, I'm over it! I guess that' just the way it's going to be. It's neat I can live with it. I used to use a drill press but have switched to chisels to mark the front and an awl to poke through and it looks whole lot neater. I just don' get a real pronounced zig zag on the front.

[ABHandmade]

I'm new to the forum and I apologize for trying to give advice.
I use the technique described in the book "Al Stohlman - The Art of Hand Sewing Leather - 1977"
Step 32

It really makes the stithes more beautiful.

 

 

[Stetson912]

On 4/11/2018 at 11:20 PM, ABHandmade said:

I'm new to the forum and I apologize for trying to give advice.
I use the technique described in the book "Al Stohlman - The Art of Hand Sewing Leather - 1977"
Step 32

It really makes the stithes more beautiful.

 

 

This works for that method of stitching. This method uses a groover though. When you stitch in a groove the stitches are flat, which is why running your overstitcher over the stitching helps define them better. 

But the op is asking about stitching without a groove to get a more angled stitch. 

As Billy bopp mentioned, you'll have to use thinner thread to do this. I believe 0.6mm thread requires about 3 ml thick leather for it to angle on both sides of a piece (that are double pricked that is). 

And I believe but am not certain 100% that the backside of a piece, or whichever side doesn't have priority, will lie just a bit flatter than the other side without the double pricking method. 

[ABHandmade]

On 15.04.2018 at 5:03 AM, Stetson912 said:

This works for that method of stitching. This method uses a groover though. When you stitch in a groove the stitches are flat, which is why running your overstitcher over the stitching helps define them better. 

But the op is asking about stitching without a groove to get a more angled stitch. 

You are right - this is my mistake.

[Stetson912]

@ABHandmade, no worries. I wasn't trying to single you out or anything. I didn't mean for my comment to sound so serious haha. You should always contribute if you think you can. Don't feel like you shouldn't comment or ask questions. That's the reason for this forum.