Stitching Iron

[mike02130]

Tugadude,

Thanks for the response and example.  I made a sample with and without a groove and the line without the groove looks much better.  The angles are more pronounced and the thread has more dimension and not flat as when it's laying in the groove. 

Two more questions, please. 

I see the advantage of not grooving but when should one groove? 

One advantage I see for the groove is that it creates a line for the stitching chisel to register.  Does one use a compass to scribe a light line as a guide?

Thanks again.

 

 

[Ignioapathy]

On 4/8/2018 at 9:13 AM, mike02130 said:

Tugadude,

Thanks for the response and example.  I made a sample with and without a groove and the line without the groove looks much better.  The angles are more pronounced and the thread has more dimension and not flat as when it's laying in the groove. 

Two more questions, please. 

I see the advantage of not grooving but when should one groove? 

One advantage I see for the groove is that it creates a line for the stitching chisel to register.  Does one use a compass to scribe a light line as a guide?

Thanks again.

 

 

Mike, I'm fairly new to saddle stitching as well but I use both a pair of wing dividers and the creasing "blade" that came with my Tandy pro stitching groover set. I've also used a ball-end transfer scribe with a guide ruler with good results.

[Tugadude]

OK, take this as opinion because some have other thoughts but basically you never have to make a recessed groove.  Yes, a groove allows the thread to recess and helps protect it from wear,  but as I stated, English saddles approaching 100 years old exist and the stitching is remarkably intact.

A groove will force the thread to resemble a straight machine stitch.  Some like that look, I do not.  I prefer the zig-zag look of proper saddle stitching.

Just use wing dividers and leave a faint scratch.  Sometimes I will use a creaser and leave a faint line, more of a shallow depression, that doesn't affect the thread.

Again, Nigel demonstrates how to use dividers in his videos.

Your stitching examples look good and I agree with your assessment regarding which looks better.

[KingsCountyLeather]

On 8/4/2018 at 5:35 AM, Tugadude said:

Sorry, missed the New in New England.  In that case Weaver and The Buckle Guy have Tiger thread.

yes, I would consider that chunky.  It also is very straight.  You don't seem to be getting the angle that makes saddle stitching so attractive.  Your rows look like a long run of thread instead of distinct stitches.  Grooves tend to make the thread lay straight, fighting against the angle.  Here is a watch band I made with 1mm thread and the Craftool chisel, similar to the one you used.  I wanted the thread to be prominent, or chunky.  I thought it suited the roughness of the repurposed baseball glove.

Notice that though chunky, they have a bit of an angle and are more distinct.

Very nice stitching! 

I’ve always thought that it doesn’t matter what size thread you use if you can sew it really well. Your watch band looks really good for it.  But if your stitching isn’t so good you’d be better off with a thinner thread so as not to highlight it.

[Tugadude]

Agreed.  I would also include contrasting colored thread into the mix.  If you are working towards a better result, until you get there you should probably be using a color that doesn't stand out.  Black leather and black thread.  White on black is probably the worst offender and will highlight any inconsistency including stitch length, angle, dropped stitches, etc.  Even highlights waviness in your stitching lines.  When your stitching is spot-on, then you can feature it with contrasting colors.  Just my $.02.

[Tugadude]

To illustrate what I said about contrasting colors and also the effect that a stitching groove has on the way thread lays, I will show an old wallet I made several years ago.  This was an attempt to make a moneyclip style, three pocket wallet.  I used Tandy Craftool stitching chisel, the 2mm black-colored one.  The thread is a waxed braided cord sold by Tandy.  I believe they say it is approx. 1mm.

 

If I were to make the same wallet today, I would line it, but at the time I didn't because I was trying to keep the thickness to a minimum.  What I'd do now if just line the small part that is exposed and it would add nil to the overall thickness.  I also used scrap leather, a small piece of veg tan along with some veg tan scraps that I "inherited" when I bought somebody's old tools off of Craigslist.  The leather had some blemishes on it due to being stored with bottles of dye and such and I knew it wouldn't matter on my project as it was just a test.  So I dyed it knowing the dark spots would shine through and sure enough, they did.  I also would edge the leather and possibly Edge Kote it.  Right now it is square and burnished, then treated with beeswax only.  I did the un-dyed pocket really as a test to see how it looked.  It isn't bad, but not sure I would do just one the next time.  Might be better if both interior pockets matched.  I also used a creaser on the top of the pockets.  I'm a fan of creasing.

 

[Tugadude]

Next post will show the exterior.  Notice the backside of the un-dyed veg tan side of the wallet.  I used a groover and it made the thread lay very flat, whereas there is a slight angle on the interior that is noticeable on the lighter shade of leather that had no groove.

Edited May 10, 2018 by Tugadude
Added pic

[CLW]

Speaking of stitching... When I mark stitch lines on the front and back of my project.... they never line up when i use my stitching chisel to punch thru.  I get a nice straight line with my compass but my holes are never on it on the reverse side.  Help? Ideas? Same if I use a groover.  I am careful to hold the chisel straight up and down but one side of the project always has wavy lines.  Any advice welcomed!

[alpha2]

Try doing a line of stitching with the tool slightly "off" tilted in one direction, then another line with it tilted a tiny bit the other direction, and see if maybe how you are seeing it is slightly off. Then, of course, make absolutely certain that the leather is perfectly flat when you use the punch.

Jeff

 

[CLW]

thanks!  I will try that.  Several really nice projects ruined by my crooked stitching lines has me chafing to find a solution!