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Deep Cleaning a Juki 563

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All - Some PO used  lubricating oil on my machine  that over the years has gotten very stiff or turned into an evil form of varnish.   Last time I work on the issue I traced the biggest culprit to the main bearing that supports the upper shaft at the flywheel.  Mild attempts to remove it failed so I slipped the timing belt out of the way, tilted the machine sideway in a pan and soaked the bearing in situ in a pan filled with kerosene for several days.  Active use of the  machine made me think things were OK, but after sitting for several months it is very, very stiff again (cold mornings don't help, either).  

So I am looking for some thoughts and encouragement on how to clean it, hopefully without disassembly.  I happily submerge the whole machine in some appropriate solvent  that would not degrade the timing belt or other painted or non-metallic parts. Or on a sunny day us kerosene, heat gun, air compressor to blow things out, break cleaner...   

Erik

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Someone used linseed or vegetable oil as a lubricant. Hate those types.

You can try soaking in acetone, but it evaporates quickly so you need to insulate the small area you are soaking with aluminum foil, heavy PET bags or similar.

Edited by DrmCa

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I have no actual experience using acetone for such a project, but you probably already know to google the dangers of acetone first.

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Some WD40 or some other type of penetrate will or should cut through the old oil,then use regular sewing machine oil after that.

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2 hours ago, Tejas said:

I have no actual experience using acetone for such a project, but you probably already know to google the dangers of acetone first.

And I have vast experience degreasing with acetone. Dangers of acetone are highly overrated. Did you have any specific hazard on your mind to discuss? If you are concerned, you should probably google MSDS for acetone right now instead of spreading rumors.

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4 hours ago, Tejas said:

Here is a link on penetrating oils, including WD40. You might want to test a small spot for aggressiveness before applying liberally.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/ot-penetrating-oil-196347/

Maybe I should of added to just put it in the bearing or bearings that might be gummed up as it will dissolve the old oil.

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What about carb cleaner or brake cleaner?  I have used a lot of starting fluid when I was on ranches for cleaning bearings on ranch equipment. Use all with adequate ventilation.  HTH

Edited by Ken Nelson

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Cheap carburetor cleaner is often just acetone and a propellant.  Depending on what flavor of paint your machine has been touched up with over the years the paint may or may not peel off with it.  Keep in mind acetone is used to remove fingernail polish - even the UV cured gel.  If you really like your paint I wouldn't use it.  At least some black Singers aren't touched by it, while a silver 212g140 had the paint bubble and/or just come off completely down to bare metal.  I sprayed a LU-562 with it - removing excess with compressed air and it didn't lose any paint, although it might have dulled the finish in spots.

I have a friend who experienced a flash fire while using flammable solvents and an  acquaintance who passed out from lack of oxygen as solvent fumes pooled in an enclosed area so don't take warnings lightly.

wd-40 is so easy to use and it's so harmless that's what I would clean it with.  I don't  understand why normal oil doesn't keep everything freed up - squirt a little extra oil on everything with metal to metal movement and run it a few minutes and wipe up the drips.  

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Thanks folks.... all good idea. I'll report back 

 

e

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