Invisible stitch from both sides of leather

[WastelandOuterwear]

44 minutes ago, KingsCountyLeather said:

I could email Nigel Armitage and ask him if he knows? He has often suggested people to email any problems you have. He is also a member here but doesn’t visit the site all the time @Dangerous Beans

That would be great, uh cause i wpuld like to figure it out for future projects

[Double Daddy]

29 minutes ago, WastelandOuterwear said:

But other than experiance and having past apprentices i really couldnt tell ya haha.

Seek out his past apprentices (references) and see if they have any guidance for this particular task...not give-aways, mind you, because that would be cheating and you wouldn't learn anything...just suggestions since the "master" doesn't seem too keen on mentoring at this phase of your instruction.

Following this to see where the rabbit hole leads...

Edited April 24, 2018 by Double Daddy

[WastelandOuterwear]

25 minutes ago, koreric75 said:

I'd start out by finding something more pliable and same thickness that you can practice getting the angle right with an awl and focus on the stitch itself vs wrestling with that very thick and stiff looking leather, once you get that looking good use scrap pieces of the same type of leather, once you have those stitched looking good you should have the confidence of stitching your bag and not damaging beyond repair or having to redo all the work. Once the stitches are done I'm still trying to picture what the final look is assembled, but if skived at a miter, and making the stitch that goes between holes on the same side, when pulled tight you should only possibly see small holes on the flesh side...?

Mitering might be a vaible idea but the two peices must not at all show thread. But are you also suggesting at the same time a tunnel stitch going inbetween the two mitered leather edges.

4 minutes ago, Double Daddy said:

Seek out his past apprentices (references) and see if they have any guidance for this particular task...not give-aways, mind you, because that would be cheating and you wouldn't learn anything...just suggestions since the "master" doesn't seem too keen on mentoring at this phase of your instruction.

Following this to see where the rabbit hole leads...

Ooh great idea.

[KingsCountyLeather]

23 minutes ago, WastelandOuterwear said:

I could email Nigel Armitage

I’m sorry... that should have read “I would email Nigel Armitage”  If I we’re you.

Nigel doesn’t know me from Adam!  

 

[WastelandOuterwear]

8 minutes ago, KingsCountyLeather said:

I’m sorry... that should have read “I would email Nigel Armitage”  If I we’re you.

Nigel doesn’t know me from Adam!  

 

Oh okay ill email him then. Im crazy unfocused today haha

[rodneywt1180b]

It's an interesting technique, similar to a ladder stitch in fabric sewing but fabric has a flap that's turned under.  The needle and thread doesn't need to be buried in the material on the back side.

I'm pretty far from being an expert but would it be possible with a very tightly curved needle and a matching awl?

Reading the article you posted this looks like a rare technique.  Is there a practical reason why the bag must be done this way?  Authenticity for re-enactment, something like that maybe?

Also, (purely selfish here) do you have more pictures?  I would like to see more of it please.

 

[RockyAussie]

10 hours ago, WastelandOuterwear said:

Idk the idea is that, ide be able to do something noone else can do therefore im special or somethng. Problem is though, he doesnt know how to do it, its just simply doesnt work and its just a bas stitch in strength and practicality, and his research isnt nearly as extensive since i have personally called the irish dublin museum and they told me how it was stitch, but he blew off saying "they arnt leather workers so how could they know what they are talking about"....

 

Hes not a bad leatherworker by any means but im currently at a standstill in my apprenticeship because of this stitch.

Well.....That sucks!!!!. I will have to say that from what I can read there, the author does not really know how its done either. As far as I can make out in the reading it does not say the back would have no visible stitching and the picture provided looks to me that it would have back visible stitching. AT any rate I have below my effort of what it is I think you are trying to do. As I don't do this type of construction normally I have just grabbed a couple of tools and did a little modifying for the purpose. I am sorry if this is leads you off track but if the same end result is achieved should it matter?

1st. I tried the bigger hook in this pick and hook set and found it was better with the lesser hook shown.

Next I carefully bent a needle as I had none here that are curved. Broke the tip off so had to bend up a little further. Worked alright.

Next I marked a line down the middle to help keep centred and for picture purposes.

Here shows the technique and remember only every second hole needs to go through on each side.

Next I marked out the joining piece across to keep the pull of stitches in line.

Having done the opposite sides holes I did the bottom hole 2 in a row to start of even.

Not perfect straight but it'll do for now.

I will post more later due to picture loading size restriction.

 

[RockyAussie]

OK here's the rest.

Before laying down and pulling up tight (easier than I thought) I would put some glue on the edges. Contact glue can be warmed up and with a bit of pressing down you would have next to no visible join.I did not glue or press in this example.

Pull the end threads tight and presto. Back view shown below

Front view

I gotta get to work now so please let me know if that helps

Brian

[fredk]

most excellent

[KingsCountyLeather]

Wow! Thats very impressive.

I wouldn’t think it would be a very strong seam when the Thread doesn’t catch the top grain, but a very interesting technique.