Singer 111w103

[BaileyLanier]

Hello Everyone! Hope you're all having a great evening! 

I was wondering if anyone had any information regarding threading a Singer 111x103, preferably a video? 

Also curious about any suggestions about this fanbelt situation... I honestly have no clue what happened here and sadly the pictures are the best information I can give. What does it look like to you guys? 

To those of you who own/have used this machine, what recommendations might you have in terms of maintenance? And ideal thicknesses of leather? 

I've picked up from other forums that 138 thread, and 18, 20, 23 needles? Correct? 

Thanks guys! I really appreciate the help in advance!  

 

Bailey 

[Wizcrafts]

I do hope you are planning on placing the belt back in the top and bottom pulleys. Also, the motor pulley is too large for anything other than couch upholstery or banner sewing. If it is the same diameter as the machine's pulley, it will drive your machine at 1:1, which is 1725 rpm. That is about 29 stitches per second. I would replace the pulley with a 2" pulley and a new, shorter v-belt. Better yet, get a servo motor with a small pulley and new belt.

We have the same model in our shop, but is is all black. It sews 5/16 inch comfortably and can just make it over a 3/8 inch seam. But, that's pushing it's luck. These are really old machines.

I keep #69 thread in our 111w103, although it can handle up to #138. A #23 needle is as big as I would use if I was going to sew with #138 thread (no plans to do that on this machine). We've already put too much money into fixing it up from the previous owners' neglect, so stressing it out isn't in our plans.

The 111w103 is a good machine for sewing upholstery materials, small banners, wallets, chaps, vests, belts, denim  jeans, hemming garments and installing zippers. The primary use of ours is sewing patches onto bikers' vests with #69 thread.

[brmax]

If you could find and replace the lower pulley as mentioned, it would be in your best interest. 

 

Good day

Floyd

[Matt S]

@BaileyLanier, Just in case you're not familiar with industrial machines like these, the belt is removable since machine heads, motors, table tops and table stands are interchangeable. It also allows you to replace the belt if it wears. In order to put the belt back in place you will need to rock the machine head back a few inches on its hinges, which will bring the machine pulley a little closer to the motor pulley. You can then put the belt back onto the two pulleys and when you allow the machine head to come forward again it should tension properly.

A word of warning: that machine head is heavy. Probably around 50lb. That weight will be borne on the two hinges behind the head so it's not like you'll have to deadlift it but it takes a bit of welly to get moving, and once it's moving it will want to keep moving. These days machines have a 'jackleg' behind the head where you can rest it but it looks like yours doesn't so you'll have to support it somehow as you fiddle with the belt. If you get it at the sweet spot you'll not have to use much strength to keep it balanced in place. Remember too to lower it back down gently once you're done.

I would echo @Wizcrafts advice and look at replacing that old motor with a modern servo motor. They're not very expensive and will really help you with controlling the machine. If you do so the new motor should mount on the bolts from the old one so it's quite a simple procedure. The hardest part is probably removing the old clutch motor. (I once had the fun of catching one of those 30lb lumps on its way towards a lady's nice tile floor -- I'd not bothered to strap it up before removing the last nut, having overestimated how stuck in place those 40-year-old coach bolts were. Would've been a bit less exciting if I weren't on my back, head-first under the table, blinking dust out of my eyes and concentrating on not hitting the wall with the socket handle.)

As to threading, I would think it threads like any other 111 or similar style machine so any manual or video you find will be adequate.

Does your machine have a thread-stand behind and to the right of the machine-head? If not you'll want one. They're inexpensive and fairly universal. 

Edited May 5, 2018 by Matt S

[SARK9]

 

IF you have the physical strength to safely remove the sewing machine head, I find it vastly more comfortable to remove the unwanted clutch motor with the table laying on its top.

The machine head will lift straight up out of the hinges and may be set on a sturdy workbench bench or protected table where it will be out of the way. It IS heavy (+/- 50lbs) and it will mar a finished surface and/or possibly drip some oil where it sets. Be warned. The knee lift mechanism and drip pan may stay where they are. If the drip pan has any puddles of oil in the bottom, you'll want to blot it all up before inverting the table.

Remove the thread winder (usually just 2 screws) thread spool stand, and the lamp (often just a large threaded nut from below) and anything else that may be on top. 

Carefully tip the table onto a padded or otherwise smooth spot on the floor...the attached clutch motor makes it very top heavy so you must be prepared to take its weight as it passes its tipping point,  and lower the back table edge to the floor. Tip it again with the legs straight up. Now it is much easier to remove the nuts attaching the very heavy and awkward motor, as well as any wire staples and the switch box attached to the motor. The motor will lift off the long carriage bolts and may be disposed of as desired.
The head and any accessories can be replaced just like they came off. You may need a shorter V-belt (most use a 3L (3/8" width) between 39 and 42 inches long, depending on your pulley diameters. Example: A 40" belt will be designated "3L400", a 39" belt is "3L390"  a 39-1/2" belt would be "3L395" etc. The motors have a pivoting adjustment to compensate for minor length differences and belt tension.

Don't take this on unless you are sure of your own lifting strength....dropping a heavy cast iron machine head tends have unpleasant side effects.

-DC

Edited May 5, 2018 by SARK9

[BaileyLanier]

Thank you guys so much for the information - especially about the belt! I really appreciate it! :D 

[Rafter3]

Would this machine be capable of sewing 3-4oz linings on 9-10oz belts? or is that asking a little much for this machine?

 

[CowboyBob]

3 hours ago, Rafter3 said:

Would this machine be capable of sewing 3-4oz linings on 9-10oz belts? or is that asking a little much for this machine?

 

Yes,shouldn't be a problem.

Edited August 3, 2021 by CowboyBob

[Rafter3]

On 5/4/2018 at 11:39 PM, Wizcrafts said:

The 111w103 is a good machine for sewing upholstery materials, small banners, wallets, chaps, vests, belts, denim  jeans, hemming garments and installing zippers. The primary use of ours is sewing patches onto bikers' vests with #69 thread.

How heavy of a belt can it handle? I am looking for my first machine. There is an 111w103 for sale locally, I still hand sew everything, but I would like to start making lined belts something around the 9-10oz backed with 3-4oz range. Hand sewing liners on belts just isn't profitable.

[Wizcrafts]

1 hour ago, Rafter3 said:

How heavy of a belt can it handle? I am looking for my first machine. There is an 111w103 for sale locally, I still hand sew everything, but I would like to start making lined belts something around the 9-10oz backed with 3-4oz range. Hand sewing liners on belts just isn't profitable.

I had one of those machines until a year ago. I used it to sew wallets and vests with #69 and #92 bonded thread. That machine should sew a 1/4 inch stack of veg-tan belt leather with #138 bonded thread, using a #23 leather point needle, but you'll have to crank down the foot pressure screw. It can actually sew 5/16 inch, but probably not hard density leather. It uses what is defined as a standard 1x capacity type "G" bobbin, which also used in the later model 111w155.

You need to be aware that the stitch length is adjusted by turning a knob on a pointed end shaft that protrudes from the center of the balance wheel. The knob has a little puck on the inside that rides inside tapered threads that are machined into the end of the main shaft. The main shaft is bored to accept the tapered shaft. The further in the adjuster goes, the longer the stitch length will be and vice versa. The problem is that those threads weaken and break off after years of use and abuse. It is difficult to find proper threaded replacement shafts and the replacement job is very complex.