Contributing Member JLSleather Posted June 17, 2018 Contributing Member Report Posted June 17, 2018 I think that may apply more to fabrics and synthetics... likely far less useful on leather, where firmness, thickness, dryness, and tanning will all affect the material condition and thus also affect the required tensions. Probably great for manufactured materials which are quality controlled for consistency. "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Members Clintock Posted June 17, 2018 Author Members Report Posted June 17, 2018 @JLSleather didn't think about that. Was caught up in the excitement of getting the tensions just right.
RockyAussie Posted June 17, 2018 Report Posted June 17, 2018 I was curious if it would give enough scale for the bigger machines or not so I might get one and try it out. It often comes up on this forum about getting the tension right and It would be handy to be able to advise a starting point rather more than the pull should be firm. When the tension springs get worn or something is stuck under them it would be good to know if 180 grams pressure would be a good starting point or whatever. Maybe some fish scales might be better? Wild Harry - Australian made leather goodsYouTube Channel Instagram
Members dikman Posted June 17, 2018 Members Report Posted June 17, 2018 Something fishy about that idea . They might not be sensitive enough, but could be worth a try I suppose. I tend to rely on calibrated fingers and how the thread feels - very scientific approach . Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
RockyAussie Posted June 17, 2018 Report Posted June 17, 2018 2 minutes ago, dikman said: Something fishy about that idea . They might not be sensitive enough, but could be worth a try I suppose. I tend to rely on calibrated fingers and how the thread feels - very scientific approach . Once you are used to it calibrated fingers are calibrated but how to translate that to a newbe who has just spent a lot of mula on this wonderful machine..... It would be nice to be able to say something like take your thread up through here and back off your springs untill this 1 litre bottle of milk starts to drop sort of thing if you get what I mean. Wild Harry - Australian made leather goodsYouTube Channel Instagram
Members dikman Posted June 17, 2018 Members Report Posted June 17, 2018 I was being a bit facetious, but you're quite right, of course, it would certainly help someone who is struggling to understand these beasties and is having problems. Could be worth a try, but it will rely on someone having one of these testers so they can provide the base-line figures - looks like it's going to be you . Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted June 17, 2018 Contributing Member Report Posted June 17, 2018 Just gonna have to get over it and get used to adjusting it. WE ALL would love to have a machine that you 'set and forget" (I've actually heard from people who asked for it set up at the dealer so they never need to change it). BUT ... varying firmness in the leather, thickness variation, thread size and quality, and a GAZILLION other variables all affect the setting -- even just wear on the machine (springs lose some pressure, discs wear ..). Better to learn how to adjust it yourself. Ask questions, get advice, and remember what you saw and did. By the way,.. I wouldn't worry too much about "remembering where it was before".. for some of these reasons. But if you feel like that helps, a fine tip marker on the dial should be close enough. If you're a bit ocr, count the threads on teh screw.... (yes, tha's intentional). "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Members Clintock Posted June 18, 2018 Author Members Report Posted June 18, 2018 My firm may be different than somebody else's firm. Guy told me one time on a mower part to tighten the bolt till its firm. Well it snapped. So tugging on string my firm would be a least 4-5 pounds. But I reckon if it's too firm it'd bunch the leather up and you could tell. Or if it's not firm enough it'll just lay on top of the leather. Correct me if I'm wrong.
garypl Posted June 18, 2018 Report Posted June 18, 2018 4 minutes ago, Clintock said: My firm may be different than somebody else's firm. Guy told me one time on a mower part to tighten the bolt till its firm. Well it snapped. So tugging on string my firm would be a least 4-5 pounds. But I reckon if it's too firm it'd bunch the leather up and you could tell. Or if it's not firm enough it'll just lay on top of the leather. Correct me if I'm wrong. I think it comes down to sewing some scraps using the same leather as your project and adjusting until you are satisfied with the stitches in the scrap. Then sew your project and hope you don’t have any harder or softer spots in the leather. Gary Cowboy 4500, Consew 206RB-4
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted June 18, 2018 Contributing Member Report Posted June 18, 2018 2 minutes ago, garypl said: Then sew your project and hope Yup. "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
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