DIY Filler for Edges?

[BDAZ]

37 minutes ago, garypl said:

I just received the Giardini base coat product and it does fill small gaps nicely.  I posted a photo about one week ago of one coat on a raw edge showing the difference between treated and untreated.

Gary

 

 

I saw that post but not sure if it is tough enough to be able to hold a crack together. The caulk and plastic wood doesn't seem to handle the burnisher and separates. Maybe a blend of white glue and pigment.

.

Bob

Edited June 17, 2018 by BDAZ

[niakulah]

15 hours ago, BDAZ said:

This is production work so I am not looking for perfection, just good quality. I don't want to bill my time at $5 an hour heh heh. I am making cases for flutes. I cut top and bottom pieces from Wickett & Craig drum dyed veg tan, decorate then dry, tape my seams (faster than glue and no chance of smearing, etc), trim the edges straight and even if needed, then stitch. Next I wet the leather and insert specific forms and wet form. If the form is very tight, it will put stress on the edges and may cause the very edge to separate slightly as it dries. In typical AZ sun, a couple of hours later I have a rock hard case ready for edging and final finishing. (It rained today, first time this year!).

Sometimes the edge dressing fills the cracks and sometimes not. It would be simpler to have the right compound, fill in the cracks and then when dry, throw it on the belt sander, burnish with home made Trag, paint and ship it!

Bob

This might be a silly question from a rank amateur, but couldn't you trim the edges after wet forming?

[Basically Bob]

Here are a couple of ideas:

- make a mask that you could position on the flat leather, covering everything except the seam allowance and then use a spray adhesive for the seam allowance.

- increase the width (slightly) of the leather, just enough to relieve some of the pressure on the seam.

I would try this with cardboard first and then if it works make a jig to position the flat leather and mask to ensure accuracy and speed up production.  

 

Edited June 17, 2018 by Basically Bob

[BDAZ]

4 hours ago, niakulah said:

This might be a silly question from a rank amateur, but couldn't you trim the edges after wet forming?

No, an extra step with the possibility of a screw up, leather is rock hard and no longer flat. Sanding sometimes helps but the problem is a gap. 

3 hours ago, Basically Bob said:

Here are a couple of ideas:

- make a mask that you could position on the flat leather, covering everything except the seam allowance and then use a spray adhesive for the seam allowance.

Tried that already, too messy and time consuming.

- increase the width (slightly) of the leather, just enough to relieve some of the pressure on the seam.

I am using fixed widths based on my clicker dies. This is production, not a hobby. Only a small percentage of forms cause this issue.

I would try this with cardboard first and then if it works make a jig to position the flat leather and mask to ensure accuracy and speed up production.  

Again, the separation occurs during the wet forming and drying process. 

 

I did some moe tests and it does appear that the caulk may be the answer. I used the suggested drying time and it didn't work, however using a longer drying time seems to be the answer. I tested it as an adhesive (flesh to flesh) and it works as well as any other glue once dried. The advantage is that i is very thick, can be applied to the edge and slicked off with a scraper or credit card and it remains in the crack. The photograph attached was a reject piece with 4 layers, 2 x 6 oz leather and 2 x pigskin lining. There was a large gap where the lining had separated at the edge.  I did give it a couple of hours to dry then burnished with gum trag and painted with a single coat of Edgecote.

While not perfect, it is certainly more than acceptable, especially once waxed and buffed.

Bob

 

Edited June 17, 2018 by BDAZ

[BDAZ]

A second test with the caulk failed. After a single application of Edgekote, the area that had the caulk showed up as a break in the Edgekote. I believe that the latex repelled the Edgekote and left a visible gap, though not through to the leather. Going back to the plastic wood for more testing.

Bob

 

[rodneywt1180b]

One thought since it is rigid would be wood flour and super glue.  It would be basically a quick drying sandable filler that takes finishes well.  Come to think of it, if the gaps are small a gel superglue and accelerator might do the trick.

One example of the wood flour:  https://www.google.com/shopping/product/16293151009935572791?q=wood+flour&client=firefox-b-ab&prds=paur:ClkAsKraX91Q0maBoMf37-KbaOivhmg0wtFJG6N3LS19BbOpv0lCVM7dr-H2d10s0Av6ypcSJYl0PshKAqL-rVjk6Ri1PEJXEP9gCDImkN-p-f1Dui6FORqfQBIZAFPVH70CkBeEuw8C8AYPY3oy8g0pZq-CRw&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjg7JejwNvbAhUzHzQIHZABDBIQ8wII1gI

A tub that size would last you basically forever.

[BDAZ]

49 minutes ago, rodneywt1180b said:

One thought since it is rigid would be wood flour and super glue.  It would be basically a quick drying sandable filler that takes finishes well.  Come to think of it, if the gaps are small a gel superglue and accelerator might do the trick.

One example of the wood flour:  https://www.google.com/shopping/product/16293151009935572791?q=wood+flour&client=firefox-b-ab&prds=paur:ClkAsKraX91Q0maBoMf37-KbaOivhmg0wtFJG6N3LS19BbOpv0lCVM7dr-H2d10s0Av6ypcSJYl0PshKAqL-rVjk6Ri1PEJXEP9gCDImkN-p-f1Dui6FORqfQBIZAFPVH70CkBeEuw8C8AYPY3oy8g0pZq-CRw&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjg7JejwNvbAhUzHzQIHZABDBIQ8wII1gI

A tub that size would last you basically forever.

That's probably close to plastic wood but I want to avoid the mess of mixing and applying glues. I did additional tests on PW and it seems to work well, no drips, easy to apply and remove excess, and once dry it does not separate. It takes Edgekote well and provides an invisible fill once painted.

I also tested standard acrylic paints from the Hobby store as an alternative to Edgekote. I could not tell the difference between the two when applied and when dry. The $1.49 satin acrylic paint was less expensive.

 

Bob

Edited June 17, 2018 by BDAZ

[LetterT]

So plastic wood and acrylic paint would be an viable alternative to edge cote/paint.

Makes me wonder what is edge coat made of.

Edited June 17, 2018 by LetterT

[LatigoAmigo]

This is an interesting thread. Makes me wonder if hot glue (from a hot gluing gun) might work. It dries slightly pliable, and should adhere well to both layers of leather. It comes in different grades, low and high temperature.

[Webicons]

It should be possible to thicken up edge paint with either fumed Silica or strait Silica.  Depending on the percentage, you should be able to achieve a viscosity of anything from syrup to a semi-solid.  The drawback of this system is that they typically leave a matte finish when dry.