Softening Herman Oak Skirting

[Silverd]

Back side

[Silverd]

Purchased a rein rounder today.

Will con structure Throat Strap using these instructions including the slits top and bottom.

[Northmount]

16 hours ago, Silverd said:

Double  Presser foot set at lightest pressure adjustment.

Too light a pressure will result in the leather lifting the foot as the needle rises, and skipping stitches.  I see at least one skipped stitch in the photo.

Tom

[Silverd]

Agree.  I had a number of issues going on.  I've been able to sort most of them.  These are my most recent work.  Still a long way to go.

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

Sorry, I was gone for a day and a half, but I agree with Northmount on the pressure foot tension.  I've got mine screwed down pretty good.  The tradeoff is pressure foot marks, but skirting is tough sewing stuff, and it will lift with the needle if not screwed down tight enough, and cause skipped stitches just as Tom said.  Laps can always be a problem because you are dropping in material thickness as you are sewing, and backstitches are notorious for not pulling the lock in.  The last set of pics looks better.  There are a few bobbles,  but it's better.  Every machine takes getting used to, and learning what you can and can't do, and what you MUST do.  I do not use thread lube on my 441.  I wouldn't be opposed to it, but I have just never reached the point that I thought I needed to.

[Silverd]

 

7 hours ago, Big Sioux Saddlery said:

Sorry, I was gone for a day and a half, but I agree with Northmount on the pressure foot tension.  I've got mine screwed down pretty good.  The tradeoff is pressure foot marks, but skirting is tough sewing stuff, and it will lift with the needle if not screwed down tight enough, and cause skipped stitches just as Tom said.  Laps can always be a problem because you are dropping in material thickness as you are sewing, and backstitches are notorious for not pulling the lock in.  The last set of pics looks better.  There are a few bobbles,  but it's better.  Every machine takes getting used to, and learning what you can and can't do, and what you MUST do.  I do not use thread lube on my 441.  I wouldn't be opposed to it, but I have just never reached the point that I thought I needed to.

I understand.  I normally have better results but I'd made a bunch of changes and it took me a while to get it back on track.  I think the bobbles you reference are related to my skill set...or lack there of more than machine set up...I think!  

So I made another attempt at the dreadd Throat Strap.  Check the pics!

Cut a sewing channel top and bottom side then stitched it with my Claes 30...she is such a joy to use!

Then glued the flap back down over the thread line...Wala!

Edited July 2, 2018 by Silverd
Rotate photo

[Silverd]

Final shot of the rein rounder in action.  NoT completely satisfied with it.  It transfered something grey onto the round section and the grain looks to have separated but its certainly round!  

I still have questions for you Ms.  So....More to follow if you are so willing.  All you have provided has been very helpful.  

Thank you again,

Silverd 

[RockyAussie]

Maybe this is not relevant but I just had to save this picture I found awhile back and sometimes I just gotta go back and look at it. Thought I might just share it with you .

[Big Sioux Saddlery]

I am amazed that you got that result by sewing in a slit with a machine.  The Stohlmans hand stitched most everything I believe, and their instructions assume the reader does as well.  With a machine, the top side would not so much be an issue, but the bottom side could be difficult to hit dead center with every stitch.  Harness stitchers of a hundred years ago had a knife attached to the machine (or the needle bar in some cases with a needle and awl stitcher)  to cut a bottom channel, and a knife set into the presser foot to cut the top channel.  Either special throat plates or work guides (or both) were used to keep everything in place while sewing.

The ends are always a challenge.  I need to take a picture to show you what I feel is the best way to blend them back into the round.  There are different ways to finish the end, but the most durable is gong to be where you skive the end of the return to paper and run it an inch or a little more back into the rounded section.  You must also skive the end of the filler. . . it will overlap with the end of the return and you don't want any difference in thickness at this point.  It is a lot of trial and error to get that part right.  I came across an old Arab show bridle  this weekend when I was looking for something else.  It's 35 years old (I know this because I bought it new).  The returns are not spliced into the filler, in fact I don't believe it had a filler.  It was not an inexpensive bridle at the time.  Since it was a show bridle, it received light use, but if it had received more than light, occasional use, it never would have held up at those spots, due to the method of construction. 

The gray transferred to your round from the rounder may be able to be removed with oxalic acid.  Make sure the inside of the holes are highly polished and clean.  Use saddle soap on your round when using the rounder, and the moisture content is critical:  it must be neither too wet nor too dry.  Separation of the grain could be caused by either one.  At this point, I am NOT trying to let you blunder along.  I don't feel like I am being very effective at helping to head you off from possible pitfalls, but so much of what I do is by "feel" gained through experience (both right and wrong) and I don't think about the "whys" and "wherefores".  Nobody works with me in the shop, nor do I do any teaching, so I'm never forced to break down my processes into easily teachable methods.  A true teacher has a talent for doing that.

 

This is an interesting looking arrangement, I'm assuming for a 441 type machine.  It appears to be for more of a purse-handle type of rolled strap, but I'd like to see the other side of it, and the finished product.  Thanks for posting it.

3 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Maybe this is not relevant but I just had to save this picture I found awhile back and sometimes I just gotta go back and look at it. Thought I might just share it with you .

 

[Silverd]

13 minutes ago, Big Sioux Saddlery said:

I am amazed that you got that result by sewing in a slit with a machine.  The Stohlmans hand stitched most everything I believe, and their instructions assume the reader does as well.  With a machine, the top side would not so much be an issue, but the bottom side could be difficult to hit dead center with every stitch.  Harness stitchers of a hundred years ago had a knife attached to the machine (or the needle bar in some cases with a needle and awl stitcher)  to cut a bottom channel, and a knife set into the presser foot to cut the top channel.  Either special throat plates or work guides (or both) were used to keep everything in place while sewing.

The ends are always a challenge.  I need to take a picture to show you what I feel is the best way to blend them back into the round.  There are different ways to finish the end, but the most durable is gong to be where you skive the end of the return to paper and run it an inch or a little more back into the rounded section.  You must also skive the end of the filler. . . it will overlap with the end of the return and you don't want any difference in thickness at this point.  It is a lot of trial and error to get that part right.  I came across an old Arab show bridle  this weekend when I was looking for something else.  It's 35 years old (I know this because I bought it new).  The returns are not spliced into the filler, in fact I don't believe it had a filler.  It was not an inexpensive bridle at the time.  Since it was a show bridle, it received light use, but if it had received more than light, occasional use, it never would have held up at those spots, due to the method of construction. 

The gray transferred to your round from the rounder may be able to be removed with oxalic acid.  Make sure the inside of the holes are highly polished and clean.  Use saddle soap on your round when using the rounder, and the moisture content is critical:  it must be neither too wet nor too dry.  Separation of the grain could be caused by either one.  At this point, I am NOT trying to let you blunder along.  I don't feel like I am being very effective at helping to head you off from possible pitfalls, but so much of what I do is by "feel" gained through experience (both right and wrong) and I don't think about the "whys" and "wherefores".  Nobody works with me in the shop, nor do I do any teaching, so I'm never forced to break down my processes into easily teachable methods.  A true teacher has a talent for doing that.

 

This is an interesting looking arrangement, I'm assuming for a 441 type machine.  It appears to be for more of a purse-handle type of rolled strap, but I'd like to see the other side of it, and the finished product.  Thanks for posting it.

 

I used an edge groover on both top and bottom to mark cut line position down the round section. Then made a slice at abput  30° creating a flap which I pealed back on both sides.  Stitching placed along the base of the flap and had some beginner luck as it would have been easy to miss the channel the bottom.   Used 138 thread for this.  It was actually not that tough or time consuming.  I'll need to focus on the end condition of the filler next.

What is this Teachery Challenged thing you speak of?  Cause I was thinking how I got here was because of your thoughtful insights and gentle guidance.  Just saying!

Silverd