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Posted

I use some fish leather for small projects. Either I factor in the lack of burnishing and leave the edge unfinished, or for the second option, I fold the edge over to hide the unfinished edge.

17 hours ago, TonySFLDLTHR said:

mostly used as inlays

There is always this option.

Kindest regards

Brian

 

"Whether you think you can or whether you think you can't, you are right"  Henry Ford

Machines: Singer 201p, Kennedy,  Singer 31K20, Singer 66K16 ("boat anchor" condition), Protex TY8B Cylinder Arm (Consew 227r copy), Unbranded Walking Foot (Sailrite LSV-1 copy)

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Posted
3 hours ago, Rockoboy said:

I fold the edge over to hide the unfinished edge.

Back to the future.

That may be an Option.

My CB4500 came with an Swing-away roller guide.

Will that Swing away roller guide aid in folding leather or binding semi Manual an leather edge?

I can imagine the roller edge is able to press the binding material right against the leather edge, were the Walking foot is pressing the upper half down and the leather presses the lower half down as well. Maybe the pressing Action of the roller is enough to get an fairly nice and straigth binding. I'll try that out on evening with an 1" Nylon webbing (I dont have the Courage to try it with leather).

Posted
1 hour ago, RusticLeatherShop said:

Will that Swing away roller guide aid in folding leather or binding semi Manual an leather edge?

I do not believe there is any requirement for a roller foot. I glued the folded edge and hand stitched the fish skin to the 1.0mm vegtan lining. You can see the effect in my key wallet. The same thing could have been done by a machine with or without a walking foot, because the entire thickness is less than 2.0mm.

 

Key wallet 01.jpg

Key wallet 02.jpg

Key wallet 03.jpg

Kindest regards

Brian

 

"Whether you think you can or whether you think you can't, you are right"  Henry Ford

Machines: Singer 201p, Kennedy,  Singer 31K20, Singer 66K16 ("boat anchor" condition), Protex TY8B Cylinder Arm (Consew 227r copy), Unbranded Walking Foot (Sailrite LSV-1 copy)

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Posted

I did it!

I put on the machine the swing away roller guide and tried my first "binding" with Nylon webbing.

Not yet ready for sale, but for private use it's an huge improvement over all other methods. Way better look IMHO after the binding, compared to before.

I am going the "binding way" instead of any burnishing or painting.20180914_194646mod1.thumb.jpg.a68d5097a6682635ca3b5f69956ab2ba.jpg20180914_194505mod1.thumb.jpg.8e7c4fa4939065d8ed186e6878b17b54.jpg

Posted

The paint is not meant to be a cover up for uneven edges. You need to edge bevel, shape, sand your edges until they are smooth. Then depending on what your using for edge treatment, slick them either before you paint or after you dye. At least thats how I do it.  Finishing edges always remind me of what a shop teacher taught me back in wood shop a gazillion years ago. A good finish will not hide imperfections in the wood, it will amplify them. I have found the same is true with leather.

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Posted

My idea is that a finish should cover up imperfections. Basically sew it together quick and then bind it and it Looks like a professional work.

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Posted
55 minutes ago, RusticLeatherShop said:

My idea is that a finish should cover up imperfections. Basically sew it together quick and then bind it and it Looks like a professional work.

Any thing done half-assed will look just like that, half-assed, all the lipstick in the world doesn't make a pig more attractive...lol.  A poor job of joining or preparing the edges will show even with binding.  The point to binding is to cover raw edges, still want them as even and neat as possible. I use this for leather and material that doesn't burnish well or fold well...or benefits from the strength of binding the two together like stress points of a bag, but mostly to cover the raw edge.  When binding depending on the thickness you may find skiving the joined material will help cut down on bulk when adding binding material as well.

For some of your softer garment leathers that you use, have you tried saddle soap and canvas on the edges...it works for some that would just fold or crinkle with a rub stick?  I have some thinner garment leather that i found comes to a nice burnish this way after previously trying the slicker on it.  For some it has helped to stick it between a couple pieces of straight edge material...granite, marble, even a couple nice smooth boards, yardsticks etc and just leave the very edge of the two edges hanging out.

Machines currently in use: Cowboy 3200, Adler 67-372, Singer 66, Singer 15-91

 

dFxdwZ2t.png

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Posted
9 minutes ago, koreric75 said:

Any thing done half-assed will look just like that, half-assed, all the lipstick in the world doesn't make a pig more attractive...lol.  A poor job of joining or preparing the edges will show even with binding. 

I only can assume you meant that an pink lipstick would not make an nice looking women on that black witch! like in this Video

. I agree with you on that.

Nevertheless I did my 2nd and 3rd binding and that turned out better. As such as if you would put an black lipstick on my pale face, I surely would get the Skin of Barack Hussein Osama bin Obama.

Whatch These my improvements. BTW, the binding is done really quick. And the roller guide does help really.

20180914_213722mod1.thumb.jpg.39009f6529f778afadf300aa59677dcd.jpg

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Posted

The leather pocket Holster above bound in blue is a copy of the UTG Holster. That Amazon Holster is totally black, including binding material and thread as such as to cover up any imperfections.

That may be a good idea as well to use a leather matching (dark Brown or blackish) binding material from Nylon webbing and then matching the exact thread colour as such as to cover up any bad stitches.

If it is good enough to sell as that the UTG Holster at Amazon, than that "chinese way of doi'n" is good enough as well for leather binding (match everything same colour in order to cover up imperfections).

BTW the additional binding gives a double thread (additional thread) strength to the Holsters and cellphone cases since the leather layers are sewn (aka slapped) together before and on top of that the binding is sewn giving it the double strength. Not bad for me!

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Posted

some info I found on binding material. This is from Sailrite Webpage. They use 1" binding material. That blue Nylon webbing I was using is a Little over 1" (like 1.15"). But IMHO it's more heavy duty than the Sailrite material as far as I can see.

https://www.sailrite.com/Binding-Acrylic-Pacific-Blue-1

Sailrite quotes this on their Webpage regards the binding technique: >>To install Sunbrella Acrylic Binding, sandwich the binding over the raw edge of the fabric and sew in place. Using a 1″ Binder Attachment on your sewing machine makes installation fast and easy, but binding can also be sewn without an attachment with a little patience. <<.

So it can be used as well without attachment, speak, only with roller guide with the rigth sewing care. In the future I will try to glue the binding on to Position it equal exactly on each side and match it to the leather colour and thread colour to hide some missplaced stitches. The leather below is sewn together then without greater worry since the overtop binding will cover any imperfections as such as the leather has to be only fairly equally cut but no needing for sanding and burnishing anymore. Neighter the silly painting.

Binding is the way to go!

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