Acrylic aquarella paint used on leather edges!

[Matt S]

13 hours ago, RusticLeatherShop said:

Sounds like the gun industry guys on gun Forums who Lure you into burning thousands of rounds in order to "practice", blaiming the shooter is a bad shot when the poorly costructed and designed pistol is in reality not Shooting straigth due to the gun industry wanting to save a dime. If the finish did not turn out ideal at the first, ceteris paribus, neighter the 1000's try will Change the endresult.

Propper paint, technique and Hardware can make any fool into an expert; but not repeating over and over the same mistake (by not having availlable the propper paint, technique or Hardware).

Yeah, practice is a con and experience is... somehow undesirable?  That's a new one on me. In my shooting career there's been those who practice and those who always have an excuse. "Bad ammo." "Barrel worn." "Bad manufacturing." "Wrong glasses." "Too much coffee." "Not enough coffee." "Damaged sights." "Wet fingers." "Wind changed." I've seen every one of these be genuine factors in poor performance but when the same characters keep thinking ever-more-inventive excuses why they can't hit a barn door from the inside you start to wonder. The ones who have a shelf of silverware, fill the freezer with venison, or clear the rats out the barn are the ones who practice, and practice properly. Those who tell themselves they know everything are the ones who do nothing more than make a lot of noise. That includes those beginners who think they'll just pick up a gun and succeed. Show me two inexperienced shooters -- one who practices what they're advised by more experienced shots and one who only trains sporadically --and, ceteris paribus, I can tell you who in six months is going to be making hits and who's going to be making excuses.

Proper paint and hardware are bloody useful but the key is technique, which is borne from experience. You get experience by trying things but you can see further by standing on the shoulders of giants by learning from others' experiences. You tried two different paints this week. That's good. Neither worked as you wanted, which is a shame, but you now have that experience, which is very valuable. What are you going to try now? Is there a similar but different paint available in Paraguay? Can you get some proper edge paint shipped to you? Are you going to try the "hot iron" method of edge painting? Have you tried burnishing using a different technique or materials, as you were advised by several people in your thread on burnishing?

[RusticLeatherShop]

can you Elaborate a Little further on the "hot iron" method?

I can buy an iron for clothing to iron the raw leather edges and then paint it and iron it over.

If it just would make the trick it would be well worthed.

Shipping paint from Amazon.com is not a Problem but not gonna do it since shipping costs can be expensive and lets be honest, local paint should do it as well if that method works.

The "hot iron" method would be interesting if it works.

[RusticLeatherShop]

Kind of this?

Whats that White machine? An edge painter? Seems to make over the edge a nice glossy transparent paint.

 

[battlemunky]

18 hours ago, RusticLeatherShop said:

more douchebag I cant even imagine. Fish leather ...

Sounds like those gun Forum advises and internet-mall-ninja Posters whose solely Goal is to censure Forums Contents by repeatedly Claim and blaim other Posters they "do not listen to advice" and the like to start of an reaction of the OP in the hopes the moderator will ban his account.

I have shown in any measurable practical first Hand experience and leather pieces the results of those so appraised "advices".

I have found that often on Forums misleading info is posted which is just not repeatable once you try it yourself.

The cow leather I work with is about max 4 to 5 oz leather and even if I try to burnish it with an stick by Hand, it just bends over or turns it's edge away as such as no practical burnishing can be done with that.

However I can see how one could sucessfully burnish full grain belt leather (10 to 14 oz I guess). But suggesting I do not "follow any (shaddy) advice" if I dont manage to burnish 1 oz fish leather, is really beyond any reality.

One solution to get a "good enough" edge is to use Brown or black fabric paint and paint it twice. That way it gives a layer but not such a smooth Surface as Posters posted here. It seals however any uneven parts between sewn together leather and makes it somewhat less noticeable.

Maybe we have here in Southamerica just not the right paint for leather glossy smooth finish.

I'll see next month what construction retailers have in stock here. Maybe I find an suiting paint.

 

First, there is such a thing as fish leather....

Second, I don't appreciate being called a douchebag. I mean, really? I could sugar coat all the things I have said instead of being truly constructive. Sure man, your "rustic" stuff looks really, really poor. Rustic isn't defined by "the lowest amount of work I can bamboozle folks out of the most I can charge them." I've seen you on here for about a month and I have seen not a ton of improvement. Your work appears as if you have zero care for trying to get better. I feel like you are "one of those people on a forum" who troll and try to get folks angry. Are we being punked?

I'll no longer comment on the schlock you post as work for commentary and I'll silently sit behind my keyboard and laugh at it hoping that nobody wastes their hard earned coin on trash.

Have some damned pride and if you insult me again I'll report you to the mods. Up your quality, not your level of offensiveness and arrogance.

[battlemunky]

18 hours ago, RusticLeatherShop said:

Sounds like the gun industry guys on gun Forums who Lure you into burning thousands of rounds in order to "practice", blaiming the shooter is a bad shot when the poorly costructed and designed pistol is in reality not Shooting straigth due to the gun industry wanting to save a dime. If the finish did not turn out ideal at the first, ceteris paribus, neighter the 1000's try will Change the endresult.

Propper paint, technique and Hardware can make any fool into an expert; but not repeating over and over the same mistake (by not having availlable the propper paint, technique or Hardware).

Also, as a marksman, there really is only one way to consistently hit the black.....

Best of luck to you. Seriously. I hope you can turn your chicken crap into some form of chicken salad. Until then, Paraguayan buyers beware!

[VabaX]

Mate, your edges need to be practically finished already with sand paper BEFORE you even start applying the first layer of paint. You cant just start painting right after cutting the pieces, on sharp edges, and expect it to come out nice and rounded.

As a rule, I never start applying paint to my edges until I have the raw leather sanded so smooth and rounded that it already looks semi burnished. 

Aside from your refusal to listen to anyone (why bother posting in the first place if you've already decided you dont want advice?), that is your only problem. Well, that and the fact that you're trying to use a grinder instead of fine sand paper, but thats a different matter

[RusticLeatherShop]

2 hours ago, battlemunky said:

First, there is such a thing as fish leather....

Second, I don't appreciate being called a douchebag.

I'll no longer comment on the schlock you post as work for commentary and I'll silently sit behind my keyboard and laugh at it hoping that nobody wastes their hard earned coin on trash.

I can only imagine you referr to Vale leather. That could be eventually thick enough to Show an edge as far as I can imagine. For me - I am not gonna on a fish kutter and catch a Vale in order to prove the Point.

For the douchebag: sorry. I was thinking on James Yeager (a YouTuber in gun channels) and suddenly the word "douchebag" came to my mind (since that guy is often called like that by ex employees). Sorry to copy-paste Yeagers goat beard onto your face in my imaginations.

Schlock? That sounds jiddish.

Dont worry: I will improve over time. Just not yet I have found the right materials to Support propperly my disguised, missunderstood and hidden Genius.

[RusticLeatherShop]

30 minutes ago, VabaX said:

Mate, your edges need to be practically finished already with sand paper BEFORE you even start applying the first layer of paint. You cant just start painting right after cutting the pieces, on sharp edges, and expect it to come out nice and rounded.

As a rule, I never start applying paint to my edges until I have the raw leather sanded so smooth and rounded that it already looks semi burnished. 

Aside from your refusal to listen to anyone (why bother posting in the first place if you've already decided you dont want advice?), that is your only problem. Well, that and the fact that you're trying to use a grinder instead of fine sand paper, but thats a different matter

Yes I believe as well the prework is lacking.

But certainly These paints DO NOT hold up in every day life.

I DID sand by far enough the edges in order to provide for an rough Surface to have an adhering foundation for the paint. To no avail. The aquarella paint bleeding Color is another issue.

That burning with an hot iron may be an solution. I tried it just with an soldering Equipment and it burned the edges but makes it glossy shiny while coaling it. But that will be worked out somehow if I get a better iron like the guy in the Video.

No offense meant to nobody!

[battlemunky]

https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=V66ZW4nKIovgzgLy15rgAg&q=fish+leather&btnK=Google+Search&oq=fish+leather&gs_l=psy-ab.3..0l10.1249.3342..3612...0.0..0.175.903.12j1....2..0....1..gws-wiz.....0..0i131.FrR66PtbRuA

 

[Matt S]

 

6 hours ago, RusticLeatherShop said:

Kind of this?

Whats that White machine?

Yes like that, but you don't need a electric iron. Can use a spoon warmed over a small flame if you want simple, just make sure the wife doesn't get the wrong idea. Soldering irons normally get too hot, I use about 80C with the paint I use. The white machine is an edge painter but they're not very useful unless you're painting lots. I use an awl or pencil dipped in the paint. But as always with painting it's 90% preparation, 10% application.

2 hours ago, battlemunky said:

Also, as a marksman, there really is only one way to consistently hit the black.....

Too bloody right.

[Tugadude]

On September 10, 2018 at 12:10 PM, RusticLeatherShop said:

Here the Picture of the paint, materials used and the cellphone case which I tried it on.

Who suggested that paint?  It is water soluble and not suitable at all for what you are trying to achieve.  It is basically a thick, watercolor paint.  Fine for artwork, not coating leather edges.

[RusticLeatherShop]

11 hours ago, Tugadude said:

Who suggested that paint?  It is water soluble and not suitable at all for what you are trying to achieve.  It is basically a thick, watercolor paint.  Fine for artwork, not coating leather edges.

Thats what I was suspicious about. False info on Youtube and Forums. Once you take that info from Posters not as a Gospel, they start bullying and telling you "not listening to advice".

I saw that Suggestion on various Webpages (dont remember were) and on Youtube. Said explicitly water based acryllic paint, AWESOME!!!

Lots of faux Posters IMHO, the like as on Amazon.com often the Reviews are fake and people got paid to post negative or positive Reviews. Seems to spread over to other industries like the leather industry...

Edited September 13, 2018 by RusticLeatherShop

[TonySFLDLTHR]

Here is some Fish Leather we carry.

https://www.springfieldleather.com/Fish-Whiskey

A good edge paint is Fenice edge paint. Which if you search the forums your will find some posts about it. Like other have said I want to say as well. Make sure your edge is done before you even paint it. If someone wouldn't say wow look at the edge without paint...then the edge isn't ready to paint. The Youtube video posted here of edge painting and sanding shows how clean his edge is before paint.

My personal projects...I have sanded then even used Gum Trag to slick the fine "hairs" down....then painted after the Gum Trag dried.

If the processes isn't followed how some say it...then you can't expect the results that they might get it.

[RusticLeatherShop]

How much ounce are those fish leathers?

I see it can replica Alligator leather.

I wonder how in the world one could burnish such thin leather.

That must me Sub 1mm leather, being that about 1 oz or less.

I cant even manage to burnish 1 layer of the "thin" 4 - 5 oz leather I use.

[TonySFLDLTHR]

I just put the gauge on it and it is reading right around 2 oz.

I would think that it is mostly used as inlays and the likes.

[Rockoboy]

I use some fish leather for small projects. Either I factor in the lack of burnishing and leave the edge unfinished, or for the second option, I fold the edge over to hide the unfinished edge.

17 hours ago, TonySFLDLTHR said:

mostly used as inlays

There is always this option.

[RusticLeatherShop]

3 hours ago, Rockoboy said:

I fold the edge over to hide the unfinished edge.

Back to the future.

That may be an Option.

My CB4500 came with an Swing-away roller guide.

Will that Swing away roller guide aid in folding leather or binding semi Manual an leather edge?

I can imagine the roller edge is able to press the binding material right against the leather edge, were the Walking foot is pressing the upper half down and the leather presses the lower half down as well. Maybe the pressing Action of the roller is enough to get an fairly nice and straigth binding. I'll try that out on evening with an 1" Nylon webbing (I dont have the Courage to try it with leather).

[Rockoboy]

1 hour ago, RusticLeatherShop said:

Will that Swing away roller guide aid in folding leather or binding semi Manual an leather edge?

I do not believe there is any requirement for a roller foot. I glued the folded edge and hand stitched the fish skin to the 1.0mm vegtan lining. You can see the effect in my key wallet. The same thing could have been done by a machine with or without a walking foot, because the entire thickness is less than 2.0mm.

 

[RusticLeatherShop]

I did it!

I put on the machine the swing away roller guide and tried my first "binding" with Nylon webbing.

Not yet ready for sale, but for private use it's an huge improvement over all other methods. Way better look IMHO after the binding, compared to before.

I am going the "binding way" instead of any burnishing or painting.

[Mark842]

The paint is not meant to be a cover up for uneven edges. You need to edge bevel, shape, sand your edges until they are smooth. Then depending on what your using for edge treatment, slick them either before you paint or after you dye. At least thats how I do it.  Finishing edges always remind me of what a shop teacher taught me back in wood shop a gazillion years ago. A good finish will not hide imperfections in the wood, it will amplify them. I have found the same is true with leather.

[RusticLeatherShop]

My idea is that a finish should cover up imperfections. Basically sew it together quick and then bind it and it Looks like a professional work.

[koreric75]

55 minutes ago, RusticLeatherShop said:

My idea is that a finish should cover up imperfections. Basically sew it together quick and then bind it and it Looks like a professional work.

Any thing done half-assed will look just like that, half-assed, all the lipstick in the world doesn't make a pig more attractive...lol.  A poor job of joining or preparing the edges will show even with binding.  The point to binding is to cover raw edges, still want them as even and neat as possible. I use this for leather and material that doesn't burnish well or fold well...or benefits from the strength of binding the two together like stress points of a bag, but mostly to cover the raw edge.  When binding depending on the thickness you may find skiving the joined material will help cut down on bulk when adding binding material as well.

For some of your softer garment leathers that you use, have you tried saddle soap and canvas on the edges...it works for some that would just fold or crinkle with a rub stick?  I have some thinner garment leather that i found comes to a nice burnish this way after previously trying the slicker on it.  For some it has helped to stick it between a couple pieces of straight edge material...granite, marble, even a couple nice smooth boards, yardsticks etc and just leave the very edge of the two edges hanging out.

[RusticLeatherShop]

9 minutes ago, koreric75 said:

Any thing done half-assed will look just like that, half-assed, all the lipstick in the world doesn't make a pig more attractive...lol.  A poor job of joining or preparing the edges will show even with binding. 

I only can assume you meant that an pink lipstick would not make an nice looking women on that black witch! like in this Video

. I agree with you on that.

Nevertheless I did my 2nd and 3rd binding and that turned out better. As such as if you would put an black lipstick on my pale face, I surely would get the Skin of Barack Hussein Osama bin Obama.

Whatch These my improvements. BTW, the binding is done really quick. And the roller guide does help really.

[RusticLeatherShop]

The leather pocket Holster above bound in blue is a copy of the UTG Holster. That Amazon Holster is totally black, including binding material and thread as such as to cover up any imperfections.

That may be a good idea as well to use a leather matching (dark Brown or blackish) binding material from Nylon webbing and then matching the exact thread colour as such as to cover up any bad stitches.

If it is good enough to sell as that the UTG Holster at Amazon, than that "chinese way of doi'n" is good enough as well for leather binding (match everything same colour in order to cover up imperfections).

BTW the additional binding gives a double thread (additional thread) strength to the Holsters and cellphone cases since the leather layers are sewn (aka slapped) together before and on top of that the binding is sewn giving it the double strength. Not bad for me!

[RusticLeatherShop]

some info I found on binding material. This is from Sailrite Webpage. They use 1" binding material. That blue Nylon webbing I was using is a Little over 1" (like 1.15"). But IMHO it's more heavy duty than the Sailrite material as far as I can see.

https://www.sailrite.com/Binding-Acrylic-Pacific-Blue-1

Sailrite quotes this on their Webpage regards the binding technique: >>To install Sunbrella Acrylic Binding, sandwich the binding over the raw edge of the fabric and sew in place. Using a 1″ Binder Attachment on your sewing machine makes installation fast and easy, but binding can also be sewn without an attachment with a little patience. <<.

So it can be used as well without attachment, speak, only with roller guide with the rigth sewing care. In the future I will try to glue the binding on to Position it equal exactly on each side and match it to the leather colour and thread colour to hide some missplaced stitches. The leather below is sewn together then without greater worry since the overtop binding will cover any imperfections as such as the leather has to be only fairly equally cut but no needing for sanding and burnishing anymore. Neighter the silly painting.

Binding is the way to go!