Just scored a REX 26-188 Walking foot sewing machine for $50.00 now what? / Singer 16-188 / Chandler TDU-N62 / Consew 18 clone

[myjtp]

Late last night I did a quick craigslist search and stumbled upon this REX 26-188 Walking foot sewing machine beauty for $50.00 !!!!!! At first, I thought it was some fake posting but it was 100% real as I just got back from picking it up!  She ran it and it purred like a kitten. She told me she had like 10 calls and I was the first one to make it there!  She used it to sew upholstery with so it came with a bunch of extra stuff AND original manuals! If anyone wants I can scan them in.

So now I know I need to get a servo motor so i'm thinking about this one any good?
REX INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINE SERVO MOTOR 550 WATTS  - $106.00
https://amzn.to/2QMdfTJ

and a new belt, which size belt? 38" or 39"

INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINE MOTOR BELT RUBBER V-BELT (39") - $7.90
https://amzn.to/2QHAA94

1. Do I need a reducer wheel or will the servo motor make it go slow enough to go one by one stitch? If so which one do I get? 
2. What's the biggest and best needle to use and thread for 8oz leather belt stitching on the edges?  
3. I have seen many videos of how rough these feet are on leather so which aftermarket feet do i need to get and whats the best way to grind them down and how smooth do i make them?
4. Do I just put oil in each of the red holes if so how much oil? and how long should i run it so that it will be well lubricated again? I think it's been sitting idle for about 4 years under a towel inside she said.

Pretty cool paperwork that came with it she bought it from one person who bought it new!

Edited October 12, 2018 by myjtp
Forgot to add question.

[dikman]

Great deal for $50!!!! That servo should be fine, but if you want to go real slow you'll need to fit a speed reducer of some sort. The servo probably has a 3" pulley so replace that with a 2". Best thing to do is try it first with the servo and see if it works ok for you.

Belt size, that will probably be a bit of trial and error to get the right size. I set mine up and then wrapped a piece of rope around the pulleys and tied it off with cable ties, this gave me a pretty good idea of what size I needed.

I'm not familiar with the machine but I would say it's designed to use #69 thread with a size 16 or 18 needle. It may handle #138 thread, which will need size 22/23 needle. I'm sure someone will join in who knows more about the machine.

Oil. Normally you'd only put a drop or two down those holes every few hours of use, but you'll need to check the machine and see if there's any oil on the moving parts first. Depending what was used before it could be a bit gummed up.

[myjtp]

17 minutes ago, dikman said:

Great deal for $50!!!! That servo should be fine, but if you want to go real slow you'll need to fit a speed reducer of some sort. The servo probably has a 3" pulley so replace that with a 2". Best thing to do is try it first with the servo and see if it works ok for you.

Belt size, that will probably be a bit of trial and error to get the right size. I set mine up and then wrapped a piece of rope around the pulleys and tied it off with cable ties, this gave me a pretty good idea of what size I needed.

I'm not familiar with the machine but I would say it's designed to use #69 thread with a size 16 or 18 needle. It may handle #138 thread, which will need size 22/23 needle. I'm sure someone will join in who knows more about the machine.

Oil. Normally you'd only put a drop or two down those holes every few hours of use, but you'll need to check the machine and see if there's any oil on the moving parts first. Depending what was used before it could be a bit gummed up.

Ahh so i was under the impression that one should simply replace the clutch motor with a servo right away... but if I reduce the wheel on the clutch motor it might slow it down to a walker speed without having to replace the motor? i mean i did score it for $50 so putting another $100 into it is'nt bad i'd say!

Belt size: brilliant idea! Ill go do that right now

The machine is a clone of the Singer 16-188 here is a great video showing this REX model in action 

Oil: How does one check the machine to see if it has enough oil in it?

thanks so much! 

[bikermutt07]

Great find!

I'm not familiar with this machine, but I'll share my very limited experience with machines.

I have a servo on my consew. It still goes too fast for me. I want it to creep like the cowboy I have. 

Now, my buddy changed both pulleys on his Adler with a servo and likes it. But, he is way more experienced than I am.

Enjoy.

[myjtp]

1 minute ago, bikermutt07 said:

Great find!

I'm not familiar with this machine, but I'll share my very limited experience with machines.

I have a servo on my consew. It still goes too fast for me. I want it to creep like the cowboy I have. 

Now, my buddy changed both pulleys on his Adler with a servo and likes it. But, he is way more experienced than I am.

Enjoy.

Ahh ok.. where do i get a new pully for the servo?

[bikermutt07]

He found one on eBay.... @koreric75 out here tonight?

[dikman]

You can replace the clutch motor pulley with a smaller one - but it still won't step slowly like you want. You're right, first thing to do is get a servo. As you say, the machine cost so little that another $100 is nothing. You should be able to find a 2" pulley on ebay, as bikermutt said.

[myjtp]

5 minutes ago, dikman said:

You can replace the clutch motor pulley with a smaller one - but it still won't step slowly like you want. You're right, first thing to do is get a servo. As you say, the machine cost so little that another $100 is nothing. You should be able to find a 2" pulley on ebay, as bikermutt said.

So the servo motor I showed is a good one?  So on top of getting the servo motor i should ALSO get the 2" pulley? that will allow me to go super slow? will it also add more power or reduce power or make no difference?

[R8R]

I have a Artisan 750 watt servo with 50mm pulley I'm not using.

This one:

http://artisansew.com/pdf/ACF-625cInstructionManual10_2017.pdf

 

It has needle positioning, synchro included. Typically a direct swap for most any clutch motor. $100 plus shipping and it's yours.

 

 

[R8R]

Disclaimer - it's not the greatest servo ever, but it goes slow, has a TON of power and is 1000x better than any clutch motor I've ever used.

[BattleAx]

You can make a speed reducer. I made one for my Consew 225 it works very well with a clutch motor. Under a $100.00. 

[JLSleather]

if it works as it, WHY alter it?@!

[myjtp]

7 minutes ago, R8R said:

I have a Artisan 750 watt servo with 50mm pulley I'm not using.

This one:

http://artisansew.com/pdf/ACF-625cInstructionManual10_2017.pdf

 

It has needle positioning, synchro included. Typically a direct swap for most any clutch motor. $100 plus shipping and it's yours.

 

 

How many hours of time has it been used? and is it leaps and bounds better than the one on Amazon? 

REX INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINE SERVO MOTOR 550 WATTS - $106.00

https://amzn.to/2EfaDwl

Just now, JLSleather said:

if it works as it, WHY alter it?@!

It just goes a little too fast.  I want it to go super slow so I can be careful with each stitch ( I'm a bit of a perfectionist to a fault sometimes )

[dikman]

To go "superslow" you'll still need a reducer or the larger pulley on the head unit. That setup BattleAx made will work with a servo too, of course. Just an idea of what can be done.

By the way, it's the middle of the day here on the bottom of the world, how come all you chaps are still awake?

[JLSleather]

4 minutes ago, myjtp said:

It just goes a little too fast.  I want it to go super slow so I can be careful with each stitch ( I'm a bit of a perfectionist to a fault sometimes )

Well, each his own.  Just remember, if you never go faster, you'll never go faster   Lots of folks REALLY GOOD at going REALLY SLOW.  Ask Wiz whre that video went.. think he was seewing rifle slings.  Slow down at the turn at the tip, the rest took less time than typing this !

 

OH, your're in orlando. WIfe just left there a few hours ago -- good thing she didn't see that or i'd have it, and don't know where i'd put it.  She don't care about sewing machines, she just like spending money on anything.

[myjtp]

9 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

Well, each his own.  Just remember, if you never go faster, you'll never go faster   Lots of folks REALLY GOOD at going REALLY SLOW.  Ask Wiz whre that video went.. think he was seewing rifle slings.  Slow down at the turn at the tip, the rest took less time than typing this !

 

OH, your're in orlando. WIfe just left there a few hours ago -- good thing she didn't see that or i'd have it, and don't know where i'd put it.  She don't care about sewing machines, she just like spending money on anything.

HAHA yessir I got there in the nick of time she had 10 other people calling say they will take it! lol I just got there first!

[myjtp]

19 minutes ago, dikman said:

To go "superslow" you'll still need a reducer or the larger pulley on the head unit. That setup BattleAx made will work with a servo too, of course. Just an idea of what can be done.

By the way, it's the middle of the day here on the bottom of the world, how come all you chaps are still awake?

What size pulley do i need for the top head?

[dikman]

My suggestion is to try it first with the stock handwheel/pulley. If you find it's not slow enough then either fit a speed reducer (commercial or make your own) or a 7"-8" pulley on the head. The main thing is to measure the shaft and find one to match that diameter, usually 1/2" but measure it with a set of calipers to be sure.

[bikermutt07]

The bigger the slower. But you need to find out shaft diameters for both pulleys before you order.

[myjtp]

It’s the $50.00 sewing machine that keeps on giving. I opened up the clutch motor pulley guard to measure the shaft and it looks like the precious owner already reduced the pulley size!! So looks like instead of the servo I’m going to just buy a bigger pulley wheel to go on the sewing machine to see if that will suffice

For the pulley that is going to go on the sewing machine itself I assume a 1/2 inch bore will work ok?

 

will this pulley wheel work ok?

TB Woods AK5612 FHP Bored-To-Size, 5.45" Outside Body Diameter, 0.5" Bore Diameter V-Belt Sheave https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003N17LBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HRzWBbSE2PJNZ

or does anyone have a better pulley wheel for me to get? Thanks!

[dikman]

Not really big enough, in my opinion, particularly if you're going to try and get a clutch motor to crawl. I tried various combinations of speed reduction, using a clutch motor, when I got my first machine but I could not get it to go slow enough (or control it!). So I bought a servo and made a speed reducer - much better. I didn't hesitate when I bought a couple more machines and ordered servos straight away.

By all means try it with the clutch motor, but don't expect to to be able to sew stitch-by-stitch.

[koreric75]

13 hours ago, bikermutt07 said:

He found one on eBay.... @koreric75 out here tonight?

i got mine on amazon, i accidentally bought this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004RAO2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 first before measuring the shaft...turns out i needed this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00498DVWI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1to work with the bushing that goes on the motor shaft...the 1.5" was just a hair too wobbly with out it and the 3/4" with the bushing fit perfect...the servo on my adler is the fesm-550sm.  With the smaller pulley and servo turned to where it'll still punch through I can creep along, also remember if you buy the smaller pulley to check belt size...I had to go down 2" in v-belt, unless you have enough adjustment to make up the slack.  I haven't looked at a bigger handwheel pulley yet, the adler is not easy to find parts for and i haven't tried removing the existing handwheel to see what it would take, but honestly with the pulley/belt change it's working great.

[Northmount]

8 hours ago, myjtp said:

When you measure pulley size, use the outside diameter of the pulley.  There are 3 parts to pulley size.  Width at the top of the groove determines belt width.  the other 2 are OD and ID.  When calculating pulley ratios, always use the OD of the pulleys.  Belts are meant to ride at the top, not down in the bottom.  If the pulley is too wide, the belt rides in the bottom and it slips.

Comments about clutch motors:  They are fine for people that are well experienced using a clutch motor.  You have to be able to slip the clutch (like slipping the clutch in a car/truck with a manual transmission when you are starting up from a stop).  If you miscalculate, the machine will take off like a jack rabbit.  If you want to crawl, you need lots of practice.

For Servo motors:  To be able to go really slow, like a stitch per second or slower, you need a system that will provide high torque at very slow speeds, especially if you are sewing thick or hard tempered leather.  I have a servo with built in gear reduction 3:1.  At the lowest speed setting, it didn't have the torque needed to punch through 10 oz. belts at a crawl so I could carefully go around the tip of the billet. I assembled a pulley speed reducer with 2" and 7.5" pulleys.  That gives a 3.75:1 speed reduction.  That gives me an 11.2:1 overall speed reduction.  Actually when you count the servo pulley and the machine pulley as well, it is about 16:1.

Only expensive servo motors have high torque at low speeds and can literally step.  Typical sewing machine servos lose torque at low speeds.  This is true of most all AC motors and even DC motors depending upon their winding configuration.  So you need to have enough motor speed to develop the torque required for the job.  Thus you need to have either a gear or pulley speed reduction system to do what you want to do.

Tom

 

[myjtp]

30 minutes ago, Northmount said:

When you measure pulley size, use the outside diameter of the pulley.  There are 3 parts to pulley size.  Width at the top of the groove determines belt width.  the other 2 are OD and ID.  When calculating pulley ratios, always use the OD of the pulleys.  Belts are meant to ride at the top, not down in the bottom.  If the pulley is too wide, the belt rides in the bottom and it slips.

Comments about clutch motors:  They are fine for people that are well experienced using a clutch motor.  You have to be able to slip the clutch (like slipping the clutch in a car/truck with a manual transmission when you are starting up from a stop).  If you miscalculate, the machine will take off like a jack rabbit.  If you want to crawl, you need lots of practice.

For Servo motors:  To be able to go really slow, like a stitch per second or slower, you need a system that will provide high torque at very slow speeds, especially if you are sewing thick or hard tempered leather.  I have a servo with built in gear reduction 3:1.  At the lowest speed setting, it didn't have the torque needed to punch through 10 oz. belts at a crawl so I could carefully go around the tip of the billet. I assembled a pulley speed reducer with 2" and 7.5" pulleys.  That gives a 3.75:1 speed reduction.  That gives me an 11.2:1 overall speed reduction.  Actually when you count the servo pulley and the machine pulley as well, it is about 16:1.

Only expensive servo motors have high torque at low speeds and can literally step.  Typical sewing machine servos lose torque at low speeds.  This is true of most all AC motors and even DC motors depending upon their winding configuration.  So you need to have enough motor speed to develop the torque required for the job.  Thus you need to have either a gear or pulley speed reduction system to do what you want to do.

Tom

 

Ahh now that makes sense! I will have to start thinking about making a pulley reducer system to get more torque.

[myjtp]

So I finally put some oil in each hole and watched a tutorial on how to thread the machine.  Threaded some red Bonded Nylon Sewing Thread Size #69 T70. Tightened the belt a bit and off to the races. I started with some canvas and it was interesting because at first the machine would sort of stall out and buzz when i pushed too slow on the foot pedal but when i pushed a little quicker and harder on it BOOM off to the races it flew through that canvas

Then to really test it out i ran two pieces of thick veg tan leather and it ate it for breakfast!

Now the feet definitely need to be smoothed down in order to do leather because they leave marks and I am going to test 138 thread with 22 needles. Anyone know where I can get some lower feet so i can smooth them out instead of smoothing out the original machine's feet?

 

Thanks!