Just scored a REX 26-188 Walking foot sewing machine for $50.00 now what? / Singer 16-188 / Chandler TDU-N62 / Consew 18 clone

[dikman]

Not really big enough, in my opinion, particularly if you're going to try and get a clutch motor to crawl. I tried various combinations of speed reduction, using a clutch motor, when I got my first machine but I could not get it to go slow enough (or control it!). So I bought a servo and made a speed reducer - much better. I didn't hesitate when I bought a couple more machines and ordered servos straight away.

By all means try it with the clutch motor, but don't expect to to be able to sew stitch-by-stitch.

[koreric75]

13 hours ago, bikermutt07 said:

He found one on eBay.... @koreric75 out here tonight?

i got mine on amazon, i accidentally bought this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004RAO2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 first before measuring the shaft...turns out i needed this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00498DVWI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1to work with the bushing that goes on the motor shaft...the 1.5" was just a hair too wobbly with out it and the 3/4" with the bushing fit perfect...the servo on my adler is the fesm-550sm.  With the smaller pulley and servo turned to where it'll still punch through I can creep along, also remember if you buy the smaller pulley to check belt size...I had to go down 2" in v-belt, unless you have enough adjustment to make up the slack.  I haven't looked at a bigger handwheel pulley yet, the adler is not easy to find parts for and i haven't tried removing the existing handwheel to see what it would take, but honestly with the pulley/belt change it's working great.

[Northmount]

8 hours ago, myjtp said:

When you measure pulley size, use the outside diameter of the pulley.  There are 3 parts to pulley size.  Width at the top of the groove determines belt width.  the other 2 are OD and ID.  When calculating pulley ratios, always use the OD of the pulleys.  Belts are meant to ride at the top, not down in the bottom.  If the pulley is too wide, the belt rides in the bottom and it slips.

Comments about clutch motors:  They are fine for people that are well experienced using a clutch motor.  You have to be able to slip the clutch (like slipping the clutch in a car/truck with a manual transmission when you are starting up from a stop).  If you miscalculate, the machine will take off like a jack rabbit.  If you want to crawl, you need lots of practice.

For Servo motors:  To be able to go really slow, like a stitch per second or slower, you need a system that will provide high torque at very slow speeds, especially if you are sewing thick or hard tempered leather.  I have a servo with built in gear reduction 3:1.  At the lowest speed setting, it didn't have the torque needed to punch through 10 oz. belts at a crawl so I could carefully go around the tip of the billet. I assembled a pulley speed reducer with 2" and 7.5" pulleys.  That gives a 3.75:1 speed reduction.  That gives me an 11.2:1 overall speed reduction.  Actually when you count the servo pulley and the machine pulley as well, it is about 16:1.

Only expensive servo motors have high torque at low speeds and can literally step.  Typical sewing machine servos lose torque at low speeds.  This is true of most all AC motors and even DC motors depending upon their winding configuration.  So you need to have enough motor speed to develop the torque required for the job.  Thus you need to have either a gear or pulley speed reduction system to do what you want to do.

Tom

 

[myjtp]

30 minutes ago, Northmount said:

When you measure pulley size, use the outside diameter of the pulley.  There are 3 parts to pulley size.  Width at the top of the groove determines belt width.  the other 2 are OD and ID.  When calculating pulley ratios, always use the OD of the pulleys.  Belts are meant to ride at the top, not down in the bottom.  If the pulley is too wide, the belt rides in the bottom and it slips.

Comments about clutch motors:  They are fine for people that are well experienced using a clutch motor.  You have to be able to slip the clutch (like slipping the clutch in a car/truck with a manual transmission when you are starting up from a stop).  If you miscalculate, the machine will take off like a jack rabbit.  If you want to crawl, you need lots of practice.

For Servo motors:  To be able to go really slow, like a stitch per second or slower, you need a system that will provide high torque at very slow speeds, especially if you are sewing thick or hard tempered leather.  I have a servo with built in gear reduction 3:1.  At the lowest speed setting, it didn't have the torque needed to punch through 10 oz. belts at a crawl so I could carefully go around the tip of the billet. I assembled a pulley speed reducer with 2" and 7.5" pulleys.  That gives a 3.75:1 speed reduction.  That gives me an 11.2:1 overall speed reduction.  Actually when you count the servo pulley and the machine pulley as well, it is about 16:1.

Only expensive servo motors have high torque at low speeds and can literally step.  Typical sewing machine servos lose torque at low speeds.  This is true of most all AC motors and even DC motors depending upon their winding configuration.  So you need to have enough motor speed to develop the torque required for the job.  Thus you need to have either a gear or pulley speed reduction system to do what you want to do.

Tom

 

Ahh now that makes sense! I will have to start thinking about making a pulley reducer system to get more torque.

[myjtp]

So I finally put some oil in each hole and watched a tutorial on how to thread the machine.  Threaded some red Bonded Nylon Sewing Thread Size #69 T70. Tightened the belt a bit and off to the races. I started with some canvas and it was interesting because at first the machine would sort of stall out and buzz when i pushed too slow on the foot pedal but when i pushed a little quicker and harder on it BOOM off to the races it flew through that canvas

Then to really test it out i ran two pieces of thick veg tan leather and it ate it for breakfast!

Now the feet definitely need to be smoothed down in order to do leather because they leave marks and I am going to test 138 thread with 22 needles. Anyone know where I can get some lower feet so i can smooth them out instead of smoothing out the original machine's feet?

 

Thanks!

[dikman]

I suggest you start a separate thread asking for info on the feet it uses. If you're lucky they might be the same as one of the Singer models.

[koreric75]

4 hours ago, myjtp said:

So I finally put some oil in each hole and watched a tutorial on how to thread the machine.  Threaded some red Bonded Nylon Sewing Thread Size #69 T70. Tightened the belt a bit and off to the races. I started with some canvas and it was interesting because at first the machine would sort of stall out and buzz when i pushed too slow on the foot pedal but when i pushed a little quicker and harder on it BOOM off to the races it flew through that canvas

Then to really test it out i ran two pieces of thick veg tan leather and it ate it for breakfast!

Now the feet definitely need to be smoothed down in order to do leather because they leave marks and I am going to test 138 thread with 22 needles. Anyone know where I can get some lower feet so i can smooth them out instead of smoothing out the original machine's feet?

Thanks!

i found feet for the adler on amazon and ebay already smoothed out...they may already be out there ;-)

Edited October 14, 2018 by Northmount
Removed redundant pics

[myjtp]

6 minutes ago, koreric75 said:

i found feet for the adler on amazon and ebay already smoothed out...they may already be out there ;-)

LINK PLEASE!! :D 

[koreric75]

4 minutes ago, myjtp said:

LINK PLEASE!! :D 

not sure these will match your machine...but here are the links anyway, the welting foot did not have a smooth bottom foot...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078GGSLYK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FIT-FOR-ADLER-67-68-167-267CL-2-TOE-WELT-FOOT-SET-1-4-S67-1-4-1SET/152427460804?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

Edited October 13, 2018 by koreric75

[myjtp]

Nope that wont work  These are the kind that fit my machine I guess ill have to either grind these down OR put some epoxy or JB weld and smooth the bottom out a bit.