The "Slant" to Saddle Stitching (??)

[Stetson912]

Matter of fact ks blade sells round dent punches if you're so inclined. I know you said you know how to achieve both styles. Just throwing it out there haha

[ScoobyNewbie]

Is diamond the same as angled?

[JazzBass]

4 hours ago, fredk said:

The angle of the hole; in hand stitching the hole is made with a diamond shaped awl blade or triangular needle. If you align the points of the diamond on each hole, when you pull the thread tight, it will cut thru the leather, thus the holes are made at an angle so the flat faces of the diamond are nearest each other, this gives the leather between stitches greater strength. Then when you sew each thread should go in and wrap around that stronger part.

@fredk Interesting - I hadn't considered that angled holes would make the stitch stronger, but what you said makes sense.

I'll leave the subject of "frilly underwear" to others...LOL!

[JLSleather]

On 10/16/2018 at 6:01 PM, JazzBass said:

It seems that the experts and aficionados often vehemently insist upon an angle to a saddle stitch. Yes, it makes it easier to tell hand stitching from machine stitching, but-

Well, if Stohlman wasn't the "best", he certainly was the best known.  And his book about hand stitching shows (and stresses) a straight stitch.  So, experts ....? Hmm..

And, this was sewn with a machine. ↓

Edited October 18, 2018 by JLSleather

[JazzBass]

Interesting!
I knew that there would be a variety of opinions on this topic. Great info for us newbies. Thanks!
As Nigel said in his videos, "if you're getting the stitch that you want, then you're doing it right"

Edited October 18, 2018 by JazzBass

[battlemunky]

Look at page 10 of Stohlman though. slanted holes are "right". He isn't stressing straight stitching at all, unless I'm misunderstanding what we're meaning when we say "stitching".

[JLSleather]

yeah, it's straight. P 10 shows it IN A STITCH GROOVE, so ... 

and if you look at the finished goods on the back cover.. straight.

 

[battlemunky]

@JazzBass, what do you mean by stitch then? Are you asking about slanted stitching holes vs round holes vs diamond holes laying in the direction of the groove/stitch line vs diamond holes laying perpendicular to the groove/stitch line?

Admittedly, I'm suddenly confused about what we were talking about.

If you are asking about slanted holes, it is for both strength and aesthetics. If you weren't talking about that, I don't think I was picking up what you were putting down.

 

[fredk]

On 10/17/2018 at 12:01 AM, JazzBass said:

It seems that the experts and aficionados often vehemently insist upon an angle to a saddle stitch. Yes, it makes it easier to tell hand stitching from machine stitching, but-

Its what I call the 'Kings New Clothes' symptom. It has to be xxxxx because 'everyone' says it has to be. Like drinking white wine only with fish meals; I'll drink white wine whenever I please. Learn to never listen to those people who try to dictate 'rules'. There are certain ways of doing things because that way has worked out best/more efficient, but they are not the 'rules'

When all is said and done,  the stitches can be zig-zag, straight, herringbone, baseball, done by hand, foot or machine, as long as they are strong and fit for purpose is all that matters

[JazzBass]

Bingo! I'll go with what you (and Nigel's videos) said. If it's the effect that you want, it's "right".