Bought an Adler 69! Basic Questions...

[arz]

We finally bought a sewing machine! Thanks for all those who have answered my previous questions. Now the fun part, learning how to use it  

We bought it from a lady who makes purses and wanted more room (she has a Pfaff 1245 and Adler 269-373). We paid 430 Euro ($500) with Jack servo and flat table attachment. She used it with thick threads and the stitches look good. She also gave me the number of her mechanic so he can come adjust it for us. 

It worked great when I tested it but I am already running into problems...to be expected since this is our first sewing machine. 

Can anyone tell me if this is a 69-373? The model plate is gone.

It seems the the top right tension spring is missing and the tension release is not working. I am trying to get a list of parts to order. If anyone sees some parts missing or set up wrong please let me know, I would appreciate it!

I also have some very basic questions, should I post questions here or start a new topic? 

Thanks!

 

 

[R8R]

Check your threading, looks like you are bypassing the check spring.

[arz]

2 minutes ago, R8R said:

Check your threading, looks like you are bypassing the check spring.

Thanks! I think I see what you mean. Are you talking about the tension spring on the far left (the one with the wire loop).? I took these photos as the previous owner had it threaded. When I rethreaded it I put the thread under that spring/wire.

[R8R]

When you say "top right tension spring" which part do you mean exactly? Close up pics help. 

Threading vid:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_J1b57wIdIQ

 

 

[arz]

12 minutes ago, R8R said:

When you say "top right tension spring" which part do you mean exactly? Close up pics help. 

Threading vid:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_J1b57wIdIQ

 

 

Thanks! I have watched that video. I think I have it threaded right. 

I have attached a photo with the tension part I am talking about. In the parts diagram it shows a few more rings (edit: disks) and a spring. I just have one disk (more like a washer). Do I need to have this spring and disks here?

I aslo removed the screw just below and left of the part in red. This was preventing the tension from releasing when you lift the foot....not sure why they did that?

 

Edited October 17, 2018 by arz

[jimi]

 You did not mention what exactly is wrong?? 

[dikman]

It should go under that check spring (wire loop),

[R8R]

Yeah this is not threaded correctly, please watch the vid and go through each step, it's pretty clear. The thread needs to go under the check spring wire.

Also yes that first disc is a pre-tensioner and it needs a spring to operate correctly, although you can compensate for it in the meantime by threading it through all the holes of the thread post on top of the machine. (each loop through adds a little tension)

[arz]

7 hours ago, dikman said:

It should go under that check spring (wire loop),

Yes I understand. As I said in a post above, this photo was taken when I just got the machine (as the previous owner had it), and I rethreaded it as in the video. Thanks!

7 hours ago, R8R said:

Yeah this is not threaded correctly, please watch the vid and go through each step, it's pretty clear. The thread needs to go under the check spring wire.

Also yes that first disc is a pre-tensioner and it needs a spring to operate correctly, although you can compensate for it in the meantime by threading it through all the holes of the thread post on top of the machine. (each loop through adds a little tension)

Thanks! That is what I wanted to know. I will order the rest of the parts for that first tension discs.

[Ski]

I bought what looks like the same machine a week ago.  My first industrial!  Exciting right?

[bemavu]

Hello,

You can go to the website of Adler. The have Instructionmanuals for a lot of theIer machines. Also the 69. In those manual you can see how to thread the machine and also the parts are show. 

[arz]

22 minutes ago, Ski said:

I bought what looks like the same machine a week ago.  My first industrial!  Exciting right?

Yes it is! It sure opens up the possibilities

20 minutes ago, bemavu said:

Hello,

You can go to the website of Adler. The have Instructionmanuals for a lot of theIer machines. Also the 69. In those manual you can see how to thread the machine and also the parts are show. 

Thanks! I downloaded and printed all the manuals. Very helpful to have. That is one reason I bought an Adler machine, the support is good!

[jimi]

21 hours ago, arz said:

It worked great when I tested it but I am already running into problems

??? Can you say what problems???

[arz]

9 minutes ago, jimi said:

??? Can you say what problems???

Several  I am working at the moment, but can write more details later. I think some of my problems are operator error. I am really new to a sewing machine!

I'm using Serafil M20 thread top and bottom and a 134-35 LR 140 needle. Top stitch looks good, knot is showing on bottom. So I think I need more top tension.

Other things:

1. Sometimes when I go in reverse and then back to forward stitch the needle will hit the needle plate (broke a needle one time because of this)
2. The needle sometimes pierces the thread (I think I was not holding the thread back tight enough)
3. The reverse stitch length is twice as long as forward. I did find and read the post about adjusting the reverse stitch. Will try to adjust it.
4. I could not pull the thread out once I finished a stitch and lifted the foot. I learned I have to rotate the hand wheel a bit. Also  important to make sure the stitch is completed. I do have a needle position servo (Jack JK563-1A). The needle stops in the down position.

A few others things. But...most are just things that were my fault and not the machine. I ordered some parts and a drop down guide. We'll get it  I will post more questions later if I can't figure it out. Thanks!

[jimi]

Nº3 Like you said, after you have adjusted the back stitch length problem you might find nº 1 and 2 fixed?? On the jack servo needle positioner when you finish in the down position, if you kick back the heel of the pedal then the needle should come to top position. I don´t know the specs of your machine but it sounds like you are at the limit with m20/140, so any higher possibly might not work? 

[arz]

10 minutes ago, jimi said:

Nº3 Like you said, after you have adjusted the back stitch length problem you might find nº 1 and 2 fixed?? On the jack servo needle positioner when you finish in the down position, if you kick back the heel of the pedal then the needle should come to top position. I don´t know the specs of your machine but it sounds like you are at the limit with m20/140, so any higher possibly might not work? 

Thanks! You might be right about point 3...Hmmm.

The lady I bought it from was using up to size M10 on top! I saw her do it. She was using up to 150 needles and it is set for the longer needle (134-35). Probably not a good idea to run such thick threads though. Seems strange but she like it for thicker threads better than her 269...

M20 is running good. Clearance in the needle plate, hook etc, are fine to my eye. I think it has to do with how you set a machine up. But I have heard that is as large as you should go. I have no intention of running thicker threads than that.

Another thing...I happy with how much thread the bobbin holds. For us making purses/wallets the narrow arm is worth it.

[Wizcrafts]

Size 150 needles are perfect for #138 thread in leather!

[arz]

1 hour ago, Wizcrafts said:

Size 150 needles are perfect for #138 thread in leather!

Good to know! At the moment Serafil M20 (#138) with a 140 needle is working nicely. However if I use a harder vegtan or English Bridle...the 150 size might very well be better. I can't find a #23 needle. I think a 150 needle is a #24?

My understanding with needles is it depends on the leather and thread combo I use.

[Wizcrafts]

4 hours ago, arz said:

Good to know! At the moment Serafil M20 (#138) with a 140 needle is working nicely. However if I use a harder vegtan or English Bridle...the 150 size might very well be better. I can't find a #23 needle. I think a 150 needle is a #24?

My understanding with needles is it depends on the leather and thread combo I use.

Negatory Red Rider. A #150 needle is about equal to a #22.5. It lies between a #22 and a #23 in diameter.

[arz]

7 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

Negatory Red Rider. A #150 needle is about equal to a #22.5. It lies between a #22 and a #23 in diameter.

Thanks!

[arz]

17 hours ago, jimi said:

.... On the jack servo needle positioner when you finish in the down position, if you kick back the heel of the pedal then the needle should come to top position. .....

You are correct, I can kick the heel back and the needle comes to the top position. Thanks for letting me know!

I have the same motor (well the 550w version) on my skiving machine. It is a good motor but I wish it was a bit slower. The pedal is very sensitive. I will try putting something under it to help control it. Worse case I can buy a Hosing G60 locally for about 200 euro. I have heard it goes down to 100rpm.

[jimi]

This is the way i use my servo on the skiver, I usually leave it on nº10. I take it you have no clutch on your skiver??

[arz]

2 hours ago, jimi said:

This is the way i use my servo on the skiver, I usually leave it on nº10. I take it you have no clutch on your skiver??

The speed on my skiving machine is fine. I was talking about the sewing machine, I would like to sew slower. 

On our skiving machine I have three motors: 1 for the vacuum, 1 clutch motor for the blade (runs all the time), and the Jack servo motor for the feed. Works great!

[jimi]

Sorry   thought you were talking about your skiver.

You might have to add a speed reducer??

Edited October 19, 2018 by jimi

[arz]

55 minutes ago, jimi said:

Sorry   thought you were talking about your skiver.

You might have to add a speed reducer??

I think with the Jack servo motors, if I add a speed reducer, I will lose needle synchronization. It is not too bad. I will work with it a while and see how it goes.