plinkercases Report post Posted October 25, 2018 I need to stop looking at Kijiji. This popped up for $250 CDN and was used for years by an older lady who was a leather worker when she was younger and she held on to it. It went to her caregiver whose son posted it for sale. He said he was glad to sell it to someone who would actually use it and not put plants on it. Needs some clean up but was operating when she stopped using it and it has just sat collecting dust and rust. Another old machine with a story behind it. I like that idea. Just like my others... well one other doesn't have an oldie thyme story just a lucky findy story. I will take the old motor monkey business off and I have a signer treadle set that I can us to convers it back to treadle. The I will need to learn what the old cobbler up the street used to call the "click click" Any help again with the xx part of 29Kxx? NOW I stop...... no more room in this shop.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted October 25, 2018 Nice one! Trouble is it's pretty hard to stop when a bargain comes along. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shoepatcher Report post Posted October 25, 2018 What is the model number of the machine 29K what? It is an early 29K The motorized part is a little Mickey Mouse. I need the model number to help on parts. glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
plinkercases Report post Posted October 25, 2018 shoepatcher I will have possession Friday and can look for the model number and thanks fro the offer of help. And yes the motor rig is coming off! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
plinkercases Report post Posted October 28, 2018 I picked up the machine and have had a look at it. SO far: 29K2 - with original manual!!! how cool - 1920 dated will take the motor off and use another treadle to try to rebuild it to foot power somehow the top drive shaft seems to have been lengthened to accept the new pull added with the motor rig original top pulley is chipped but I am sure would still hold the belt - I will use the larger pulley track which seems fine runs absolutely smooth and quiet and there is still oil where there should be haven't tried to sew as I down have the threading rod to get down the head to the need and the bobbin winder needs a new rubber... needle is still in it and straight!!! there was still a loaded bobbin in it so its as if she just stopped using it one day their seems to be a mystery tensioner (broken) threaded into the front of the head...not needed as far as I can see unless for the winder? but cant see how that would work Seems to have all other screws. knobs, wing nuts, springs, guides etc. came with 3 shuttle hooks and the one installed had a make shift metal band as a replacement for the missing "wall section" - other 2 look fine but I would know if they were worn out or not - not sure they why they would not have been used instead of the broken one... unless they are worn out functionally and the broken one still hooked came with an extra shuttle carrier and the drive pinion look to have all its teeth so to speak came with 9 bobbins but are rusty and easy enough to get new has a metal repair on the very end of the arm so it may have taken a header some where in its life...haven't we all? I think I need for function new top tension disc and spring new winder rubber new needles (came with a pill bottle full and labelled - "old patcher needles"... so are the old needle from the patcher or needles for the old patcher? rusty anyhow and better to replace with new wait to seeif it sew then perhaps new shuttle hook and carrier and drive pinion assembly For aesthetics noting!! - I am just going to clean some of the grim off and perhaps polish up some of the bits that used to be shinny and leave it as is... nothing wrong with it showing its age and signs of loving use. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
catskin Report post Posted October 28, 2018 NO, the shaft is not extended it is that way for if or when you put the flywheel from the front to the side as some do. And for the shuttle area it is likely worn so as to break the shuttle as that one is. I have seen them that way. And it seems the opinion on this forum is that gears for the shuttle drive are no longer possible to get in good condition. Sorry to be giving negative opinions but from my experience and reading this site that seems to be the way it is. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted October 28, 2018 try washing soda solution for cleaning of the grime but as always be careful with the decals. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
plinkercases Report post Posted October 28, 2018 catskin - thanks for the observations and experience. I can get the pinions on ebay.ca or amazon.ca if they are needed. as for the shuttle enclosure I believe if I get some good pictures and someone with an intact one can determine what and where the issue is I can rebuild the material with JB weld and a dremmel toll butt thanks the heads up. constabulary - yes I was going to ask/look around for something that can de-grim but mild enough not to destroy the decals. As a Canadian I am not familiar with the term soda wash unless you mean a baking soda mixture? is there a brand name? Still excited about the old girl. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted October 28, 2018 (edited) 29 minutes ago, plinkercases said: catskin - thanks for the observations and experience. I can get the pinions on ebay.ca or amazon.ca if they are needed. as for the shuttle enclosure I believe if I get some good pictures and someone with an intact one can determine what and where the issue is I can rebuild the material with JB weld and a dremmel toll butt thanks the heads up. constabulary - yes I was going to ask/look around for something that can de-grim but mild enough not to destroy the decals. As a Canadian I am not familiar with the term soda wash unless you mean a baking soda mixture? is there a brand name? Still excited about the old girl. Sorry but the pinions you would need are not / no longer available as after market parts, the pinions you find on Ebay + so on are for the later model 29K71 - 29K73 but do not fit the the early 29K series (and sometimes they don´t even fit the later machines very well) There were at least 3 different type of pinions for the 29K series - your machines is one of the oldest. Not many parts of the "modern" 29K71 are compatible with your machine - there are a few but not many. Before you order spare parts compare the numbers with the parts list. I guess you already downloaded it, right? You don´t have washing soda (not baking soda) in Canada? Like Arm & Hammer? I´m sure you have that stuff. Edited October 28, 2018 by Constabulary Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
plinkercases Report post Posted October 28, 2018 constabulary - I have not gotten to downloading the parts list and I am not actually worried about the gears right now - would need to see how it sews I suspect. I have determined I need to rebuild some of the casting around the bobbin shuttle area as suggested by catskin. As for appropriate parts I am hoping shoepatcher here or other machine rebuild gurus can help there before I commit to buying anything "wrong". Thanks for the heads up though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisash Report post Posted October 28, 2018 This company has most spares available https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/Singer29K,29USewingMachineParts also there is a amish site but very expensive http://www.horsenharness.com/SINGER.html Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
plinkercases Report post Posted October 28, 2018 Thanks chrisash Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisash Report post Posted October 28, 2018 You may also find this of use, originally by wiz Singer 29 stitch length adjustment The Singer 29-4 models are going on a hundred years old now and the parts that drive the stitch length wear out over time. Here is a list of things you can check out to see what is causing the short stitches. Lift the pressor foot lever to the raised position and lower the stitch regulator all the way down, then tighten it in back Lift the pressor foot lever and see if you can wiggle the foot forward and backward more than 1/16 inch either way Feel the bottom of the pressor foot to see if the teeth are still viable Tighten the pressure spring along the back of the machine to exert more downward pressure Loosen the pressure spring in case it was too tight Check the throat plate cover for burs or gouges that might grab the leather as you try to advance it Make sure the bobbin case tension allows the thread to flow freely, but with some tension. If too tight the stitches may be pulled short from the bobbin thread. Check the top tension to make sure it isn't so tight that it drags the work forward against the foot action. Any of those things can affect the stitch length, especially if the top tension spring is too loose, or the teeth are worn off the bottom of the foot. Too much thread tension can shorten the stitches by fighting against the foot action. But, the most common problem with hundred year old patchers is a worn out stitch regulator puck inside the rotating pressor foot assembly, where it is attached to the bottom of the head. When the needle moves up the mechanism lowers the butterfly housing, causing a puck to pivot inside the housing. It is the amount of downward pivoting that determines the maximum stitch length. If you have lowered the regulator and set it firmly on the back of the two rails that are part of the foot assembly and the tensions are all decent, but the stitches are very short, the puck is probably worn out inside the butterfly housing. You may be able to get replacement parts from Bob Kovar, at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. Otherwise, disassemble the head of the patcher and unscrew the foot mechanism. Send the moving ring and the housing it revolves in to a machinist to have some bronze weld added to it and shaped to minimize slack without binding. I did this on two old patchers I owned and restored the full stitch length to them. Edited March 30, 2010 by Wizcrafts Quote Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted October 28, 2018 Again - compare numbers - the machines are different. http://www.horsenharness.com/SINGER.html Totally nuts prices for used (probably worn?) parts - thats ridicules. Before you invest in used pinions and parts better look for a different / later model machine. Rebuilding the shuttle area? You mean the inside where the shuttle oscillates? I never heard of that. The shuttle carrier has a spring with a ball tip, that ball tip presses the shuttle against the casting and when the shuttle tip is not too worn and the ball on the spring is fine you most likely just have to adjust the needle holder a bit sideways. As far as I recall the early 29K´s do not have a timing eccentric so the condition of the pinions and racks are essential. The 1st thing I would do (if it is not sewing when cleaned and reassembled) is buying a new quality shuttle (TOWA made) - I don´t know how good or bad the Chinese made shuttles are. Towa shuttles are excellent. Other question - have you pulled out the shuttle carrier with the attached pinion from the top side just as shown in picture #7 / #8? Or have you opened the gear box plate and removed the parts bit by bit? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
plinkercases Report post Posted October 28, 2018 Chrisash thanks.. when i get to it i am sure there are lots of excellent psots i will need to revurw like this. Constabulary - yes i will make sure part numbers are all accurate or deal only with folks who know. The assembly woth the hear pictured was spare and looks like the disc area is broken There is an assembly in the machine i have not pulled and wont unless function trouble shooting warrants. Thanks for the tip on reliable shuttle source. The rebuild i am talking about is where the arm cast metal appears chipped on the arm just around the area where the shuttle etc sit in. This i can reconstruct. It looks like some aress alreadt where so it looks like ot may have landed or beem struck on the end of the arm at some point. All this is much appreciated and i will refer back Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites