Gluing a split

[Sheilajeanne]

When I spent a summer working in a factory, we used hot glue made from horse's hooves for gluing the covers on cardboard binders. It came in a package of a solid gelatin type substance. We'd unwrap it and put it in the glue machine where it would melt into a liquid. It looked sort of like the gel left in the casserole after cooking chicken.

Okay, we were TOLD it was from horses' hooves, but as there was nothing on the package to say what was in it, it might have been some other animal byproduct.

[rodneywt1180b]

Hide glue (glue made from hides) has been around a very long time and is still used by some wood workers.  I think luthiers use it a lot in their work.  I don't think it's flexible so not good for this application.

[Sheilajeanne]

Actually, it WAS flexible when in the package at room temperature. It felt kind of like really stiff Jello. It only got sticky when heated. We'd wash it off our tools with water, and I remember it was kind of gummy in its dry state, not brittle.

[Constabulary]

On 1.11.2018 at 6:31 PM, CutThumb said:

Equally off-topic, I see you work with military canvas.... do you know if it’s possible to dye a haversack? The old type, I think it’s canvas webbing, but I don’t know the lingo.

depends on if it has been treated or not. Untreated canvas can be re-dyed. The US military re-dyed a lot of webbing equipment after WWII (or probably late in the war already) from OD#3 (aka khaki) to OD#7 (aka olive green). If the canvas has been thread with stuff like CANVAK (waterproof treatment - feels waxy sometimes) or it is marked MRT (Mildew Resistant Treatment) you cannot dye it or the result will not turn out as expected. I heard sometimes that "light treated" canvas can be pretreated with clear vinegar so it takes the new dye better but I actually never tried this.

Usually haversacks (if we are talking about M-1910 or M-1928 haversacks) are untreated.

So a general statement is not possible - it depends...

Edited November 3, 2018 by Constabulary

[Dwight]

Personally, . . . I would prop the split open, . . . dab a VERY LITTLE BIT of Weldwood contact cement to both sides, . . . dry with my heat gun, . . . press together, . . . and roll out with a seam roller.

Next step would be a 2 inch long by 1 inch wide piece of fabric, . . . again, . . . Weldwood would be used to apply the fabric to the back side.

Be very careful about not letting any of the wet glue get up to the hair side of the leather, . . . it will not dye as previously stated.  

This WILL WORK, . . . white glue will probably squeeze through the crack, ruining the whole thing, . . . yellow is not a good choice, . . . and the meat glue is totally unknown to me.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Mattsbagger]

On 10/30/2018 at 11:06 AM, Constabulary said:

Have seen this several times on German TV. Meat industry is making larger meat pieces from smaller (scrap) pieces for increasing their profit. Thats nothing new and not too unusual but they don´t make this public of course. I think it´s forbidden on my side of the pond but you never know - meat industry can be "filthy". Few years ago they found horse meat in Bolognese sauce.

https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=7JHYW-7mPO6grgTH2Ipg&q=meat+glue&oq=meat+glue&gs_l=psy-ab.12..0j0i22i30k1l9.3362.5629.0.14376.9.9.0.0.0.0.163.1316.0j9.9.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.9.1305...0i131k1j0i10k1.0.ycemmyZFKSM

Was just an idea in terms of leather

We used to have an Aldi’s where I used to live. I loved shopping there. Except for the “beef” it just never tasted right to me. Then Aldi’s admitted there “beef” contained up to 100% horse meat. I was talking with my Dad and he goes “yeah horse is very sweet” and that is exactly what made it taste “not right”. 

[fredk]

On 10/29/2018 at 5:49 PM, CutThumb said:

Hi all, 

I got to the stage of having cut out, and carved, a notebook cover before I spotted this half inch split. Note to self - check the bloody leather before you start! Anyway, am planning on gluing it with rubber cement. Should I do this before or after dyeing? Or should I use something else altogether? I’m going to dye with Fiebings pro, and use a leather conditioner afterwards. As always, all advic gratefully received. 

 

I had a bit like that, I just glued it with PVA glue, after dyeing

[CutThumb]

On 03/11/2018 at 3:41 PM, fredk said:

I had a bit like that, I just glued it with PVA glue, after dyeing

I went with contact rubber, after dyeing. Looked fine.

 

by the way, Fred, can you recommend somewhere with decent stamps? Just the basics. I bought cheap, and think I need to spend a bit on some decent shaders and beveler.

Edited November 12, 2018 by CutThumb

[fredk]

On 11/12/2018 at 11:00 AM, CutThumb said:

by the way, Fred, can you recommend somewhere with decent stamps? Just the basics. I bought cheap, and think I need to spend a bit on some decent shaders and beveler.

All the cheap stamps are much of a muchness - Le Prevo sells the same as the Tandy range - L.P = £7.06 each, ( £5.88 +vat), Tandy UK = £9.23 / £7.91 / £6.92 - depends if you are in their discount schemes

I've bought the same basic stamps from China (delivered out of a UK address!)** for £4.99 for 20 (!). They have the same code numbers as Tandy/L.P ones. Side by side they are the same. I've not had a handle bend or head break off

example; (£6.49) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Leather-Working-Saddle-Making-Tools-Carving-Leather-Craft-Stamps-Set-20Pcs-/232743967340?hash=item36309f1a6c

You really need to go up into big money for the better stamps. But I've bought off this chap in Czech Rep.  He does basket-weave stamps and fancy ones like that, not regular bevelers and such.  https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/007designer007?_trksid=p2053788.m1543.l2754

If you want your stamps to give a 'sharper' impression I'd invest in a dremel type drill and grinding wheels {i have such] and just work on the cheap tools to make them a bit better. I bought the 20 pc set at £4.99 for grinding them to other sizes/shapes

** a lot of Chinese ebay sellers now have warehouses in the UK - London and Manchester usually, for swifter delivery of commonly bought items. Instead of a week to six weeks for delivery from China you can have the item within a few days

 

Edited November 13, 2018 by fredk

[CutThumb]

49 minutes ago, fredk said:

All the cheap stamps are much of a muchness - Le Prevo sells the same as the Tandy range - L.P = £7.06 each, ( £5.88 +vat), Tandy UK = £9.23 / £7.91 / £6.92 - depends if you are in their discount schemes

I've bought the same basic stamps from China (delivered out of a UK address!)** for £4.99 for 20 (!). They have the same code numbers as Tandy/L.P ones. Side by side they are the same. I've not had a handle bend or head break off

example; (£6.49) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Leather-Working-Saddle-Making-Tools-Carving-Leather-Craft-Stamps-Set-20Pcs-/232743967340?hash=item36309f1a6c

You really need to go up into big money for the better stamps. But I've bought off this chap in Czech Rep.  He does basket-weave stamps and fancy ones like that, not regular bevelers and such.  https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/007designer007?_trksid=p2053788.m1543.l2754

If you want your stamps to give a 'sharper' impression I'd invest in a dremel type drill and grinding wheels {i have such] and just work on the cheap tools to make them a bit better. I bought the 20 pc set at £4.99 for grinding them to other sizes/shapes

** a lot of Chinese ebay sellers now have warehouses in the UK - London and Manchester usually, for swifter delivery of commonly bought items. Instead of a week to six weeks for delivery from China you can have the item within a few days

 

Yeah I have the same set  I saw some of the Tandy ones seem a fair bit more defined. But I have a dremel so maybe I’ll hit some of those stamps and see what I can do. At the mo I’m just after background, I doubt my ability to do anything with basketweave... I also need to get a brand name stamp done some time soon.

 

ill have a look at the Czech guy, thanks.

 

edit - wow, just looked at his stamps. 

Edited November 13, 2018 by CutThumb