New industrial sewing machine table, where to buy?

[myjtp]

I found one for $199 with only $0.99 shipping is there a better deal than this one? This comes with adjustable K legs and table top plywood not particle board. 

https://goldstartool.com/industrial-single-needle-sewing-machine-table.html

I'm debating just buying a new table rather than refurbishing an old table.

Edited November 1, 2018 by myjtp

[kgg]

If you have a good frame you would only need to only buy a top which would save a few bucks. I would also check Atlas Levy as well.

http://www.atlaslevy.com/Complete-Table-Stand-For-Industrial-Sewing-Machines-Standard-_p_599.html

[Wizcrafts]

The first table. listed at $199, has no machine cutout, hinges, or rubber mounting pads, although there is an option for a standard lockstitch cutout measuring 19 inches long and 7 inches wide. Further, there is no oil pan, knee lever, lamp, tilt back post, bobbin winder, or thread stand. There is a servo motor option. Adding these items drives the price to $319.

You may as well contact one of our advertising or supporting dealers and see what they would charge to set up a k-legs table that's fully equipped and ready for your machine to drop in.

[brmax]

Even just getting a top from dealers, the shipment is an important point. However it can be listed in price as to have shipping or not, that aspect is figured one way or the other. 

It wouldnt hurt to check around, a k frame is a k frame is a etc etc.  For sure, a pre cutout top fitting your particular machine, I would pursue. 

As mentioned the required accessories may need purchased with the above table. Is this a need? If so its a wise choice to call for any package kind of purchases. That way limiting again freight cost. 

 

Good day

Floyd

[JJN]

Here is  top only for $125 including shipping. (80 + 45)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Juki-241-1541-Industrial-Sewing-Machine-Table-Top-High-Quality-made-in-Canada/283216053711?hash=item41f0fe05cf:g:BFcAAOSwYXBbRBsK:rk:3:pf:1&frcectupt=true

[R8R]

If you are replacing a table and transferring all the ancillary parts, then yeah that first one is ok. I personally don't like K-legs as much as L-legs or even H-legs, much easier to add casters to those.

Are there any industrial sewing vendors close by?

 

 

 

[myjtp]

6 minutes ago, R8R said:

If you are replacing a table and transferring all the ancillary parts, then yeah that first one is ok. I personally don't like K-legs as much as L-legs or even H-legs, much easier to add casters to those.

Are there any industrial sewing vendors close by?

 

 

 

I have everything all i need is legs and table top.  I'll have to check to see if i have an industrial vendor close by good idea!

[brmax]

Im in total agreement on casters.

I used the mig to weld them on mine, as they are k stands. As mentioned they are contanerous on the feet, for mounting anything except slab of plywood. I have seen countless casters mounted with this method first, then on stands. 

Keep an eye on all the stand types, its possible to locate something just right.

If your familar with the router and its performance, this gets to be just another new task. Just be mindfull of the particular inside corner ledge cutting.

Even take a look for stands on C list, ive seen them there before. With that, the real old k stands I do believe they had thicker steel, im positive of that. 

good day

Floyd

 

 

 

[myjtp]

What's the big difference between the L stand and the K stands? Pros Cons for each?

L-Stand

 

K-stand

Edited November 2, 2018 by myjtp

[DonInReno]

I’ll just add that if you really enjoy the basic look of a white high pressure laminate (HPL) top, which there is nothing wrong with, then one of the hospital white tops are pretty reasonable.  However if you’d prefer a melamine top with more color - wood, patterns/colors, or granite look - then you might look into simply having the HPL surface of your table replaced.  Formica is just one brand name, but there are many.  

One warning about online tables of unknown quality - the durability and thickness of the surface material is very hard to determine.  Cheap tables will have less expensive brands and thinner HPL.  Sewing is not as physical as football, but you definitely don’t want an edge to chip the first time scissors are dropped.

Formica lists three thicknesses of many of their top - roughly .045” thick for normal flat surfaces,  .035” for tops that have radiused edges as used in kitchen counter tops, and .025” for even tighter radiused edges.  There are other even less desireable grades designed as liner material for areas not subject to much use, but must be covered by a water resistant material.  If you have your table resurfaced the thickest version is what you want and liner material shouldn’t be used on anything.

One of the best things you can do to stiffen a table is have the bottom laminated as well as the top - although few are.  Anybody that installs laminate will have a lot of leftover scraps - there’s a good chance they would throw in some random piece for the bottom at a very low cost if not free.

If someone tries to tell you a color is only available in a 4’x8’ sheet you might ask what they would charge for the installation if you supply the HPL.  Many online sites allow you to buy partial sheets.

If you want to try replacing it yourself there are many good videos online.  Often the original glue will be heat sensitive and and old cloths iron can be used to heat and peal off the old top.  Then use lacquer thinner and a putty knife to scrape any remaining adhesive off the surface.  There’s usually no need to sand unless there’s a surface defect in the wood.

The main catch to doing it yourself is getting the edge banding correct and developing a feel for how to cut the stuff without chipping. Definitely practice on scraps.

HPL is crazy strong, stiff, and durable.

Also some metal legs are thinner gauge metal than others - it’s worth comparing before ordering.

Good luck whatever route you take!