New industrial sewing machine table, where to buy?

[myjtp]

I found one for $199 with only $0.99 shipping is there a better deal than this one? This comes with adjustable K legs and table top plywood not particle board. 

https://goldstartool.com/industrial-single-needle-sewing-machine-table.html

I'm debating just buying a new table rather than refurbishing an old table.

Edited November 1, 2018 by myjtp

[kgg]

If you have a good frame you would only need to only buy a top which would save a few bucks. I would also check Atlas Levy as well.

http://www.atlaslevy.com/Complete-Table-Stand-For-Industrial-Sewing-Machines-Standard-_p_599.html

[Wizcrafts]

The first table. listed at $199, has no machine cutout, hinges, or rubber mounting pads, although there is an option for a standard lockstitch cutout measuring 19 inches long and 7 inches wide. Further, there is no oil pan, knee lever, lamp, tilt back post, bobbin winder, or thread stand. There is a servo motor option. Adding these items drives the price to $319.

You may as well contact one of our advertising or supporting dealers and see what they would charge to set up a k-legs table that's fully equipped and ready for your machine to drop in.

[brmax]

Even just getting a top from dealers, the shipment is an important point. However it can be listed in price as to have shipping or not, that aspect is figured one way or the other. 

It wouldnt hurt to check around, a k frame is a k frame is a etc etc.  For sure, a pre cutout top fitting your particular machine, I would pursue. 

As mentioned the required accessories may need purchased with the above table. Is this a need? If so its a wise choice to call for any package kind of purchases. That way limiting again freight cost. 

 

Good day

Floyd

[JJN]

Here is  top only for $125 including shipping. (80 + 45)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Juki-241-1541-Industrial-Sewing-Machine-Table-Top-High-Quality-made-in-Canada/283216053711?hash=item41f0fe05cf:g:BFcAAOSwYXBbRBsK:rk:3:pf:1&frcectupt=true

[R8R]

If you are replacing a table and transferring all the ancillary parts, then yeah that first one is ok. I personally don't like K-legs as much as L-legs or even H-legs, much easier to add casters to those.

Are there any industrial sewing vendors close by?

 

 

 

[myjtp]

6 minutes ago, R8R said:

If you are replacing a table and transferring all the ancillary parts, then yeah that first one is ok. I personally don't like K-legs as much as L-legs or even H-legs, much easier to add casters to those.

Are there any industrial sewing vendors close by?

 

 

 

I have everything all i need is legs and table top.  I'll have to check to see if i have an industrial vendor close by good idea!

[brmax]

Im in total agreement on casters.

I used the mig to weld them on mine, as they are k stands. As mentioned they are contanerous on the feet, for mounting anything except slab of plywood. I have seen countless casters mounted with this method first, then on stands. 

Keep an eye on all the stand types, its possible to locate something just right.

If your familar with the router and its performance, this gets to be just another new task. Just be mindfull of the particular inside corner ledge cutting.

Even take a look for stands on C list, ive seen them there before. With that, the real old k stands I do believe they had thicker steel, im positive of that. 

good day

Floyd

 

 

 

[myjtp]

What's the big difference between the L stand and the K stands? Pros Cons for each?

L-Stand

 

K-stand

Edited November 2, 2018 by myjtp

[DonInReno]

I’ll just add that if you really enjoy the basic look of a white high pressure laminate (HPL) top, which there is nothing wrong with, then one of the hospital white tops are pretty reasonable.  However if you’d prefer a melamine top with more color - wood, patterns/colors, or granite look - then you might look into simply having the HPL surface of your table replaced.  Formica is just one brand name, but there are many.  

One warning about online tables of unknown quality - the durability and thickness of the surface material is very hard to determine.  Cheap tables will have less expensive brands and thinner HPL.  Sewing is not as physical as football, but you definitely don’t want an edge to chip the first time scissors are dropped.

Formica lists three thicknesses of many of their top - roughly .045” thick for normal flat surfaces,  .035” for tops that have radiused edges as used in kitchen counter tops, and .025” for even tighter radiused edges.  There are other even less desireable grades designed as liner material for areas not subject to much use, but must be covered by a water resistant material.  If you have your table resurfaced the thickest version is what you want and liner material shouldn’t be used on anything.

One of the best things you can do to stiffen a table is have the bottom laminated as well as the top - although few are.  Anybody that installs laminate will have a lot of leftover scraps - there’s a good chance they would throw in some random piece for the bottom at a very low cost if not free.

If someone tries to tell you a color is only available in a 4’x8’ sheet you might ask what they would charge for the installation if you supply the HPL.  Many online sites allow you to buy partial sheets.

If you want to try replacing it yourself there are many good videos online.  Often the original glue will be heat sensitive and and old cloths iron can be used to heat and peal off the old top.  Then use lacquer thinner and a putty knife to scrape any remaining adhesive off the surface.  There’s usually no need to sand unless there’s a surface defect in the wood.

The main catch to doing it yourself is getting the edge banding correct and developing a feel for how to cut the stuff without chipping. Definitely practice on scraps.

HPL is crazy strong, stiff, and durable.

Also some metal legs are thinner gauge metal than others - it’s worth comparing before ordering.

Good luck whatever route you take!

[trash treasure]

9 hours ago, myjtp said:

What's the big difference between the L stand and the K stands? Pros Cons for each?

 

 

I personally think the old "H" leg stands are the strongest / most rigid, but they're going to be hard to find new - Probably could get one used from a place that buys up factory stuff

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

17 hours ago, JJN said:

Here is  top only for $125 including shipping. (80 + 45)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Juki-241-1541-Industrial-Sewing-Machine-Table-Top-High-Quality-made-in-Canada/283216053711?hash=item41f0fe05cf:g:BFcAAOSwYXBbRBsK:rk:3:pf:1&frcectupt=true

Particle board, not plywood construction.  This top will bow over time, and in some cases, not that much time at all.  

[kgg]

I agree with Gregg forget the particle board table tops they will not give you longevity, the surface top will lift more easily from the particle board, twist more with humidity changes and are not as strong as plywood constructed tops. Inexpensive alternative? Maybe.

kgg

[brmax]

In the short time being interested in industrial sew machines. I honestly have only been around k stands. I think the L stand and H stands with their frame structures are a newer design. 

In my opinion they could be higher in price,  although im sure with either there are both thick and thin box tubing and or dimensions used, just as the k stands. 

So what I have is the k stand, but what I like are both the L and H. 

Someone mentioned formica thickness, I agree, some thin stuff is used in these tops way to easily. Thumbs downs, with it. In some manufacturing I have seen hundreds uneven/ bumps on these tops. Its like they unprofessionally sprayed glu strings on, went to lunch came back to find they needed to spray more glue on.  Then run it through their roller press 

Stands: most have the; lower foot support, running across. These tend to get both feet on them, or mine do. Especially if this area is raised from casters installed.

This may be a support part, that one wants or needs lowered by some method. I mention this simply because I found couple of my k stands had this an inch or so higher, and in that not the same with any others Ive had.  I have on all these supports installed a 12” plywood square left side of the go pedal, just a need for a bit more left shoe area.  

Closing rant: H stand, with nice white top and it requires a smooth top surface.

Good day

Floyd

[R8R]

5 hours ago, Gregg From Keystone Sewing said:

Particle board, not plywood construction.  This top will bow over time, and in some cases, not that much time at all.  

It looks to be OSB ply, not regular plywood, so it's better than plain old particle board at least. Actually depending on the grade, OSB can be superior to regular plywood. No telling how long it lasts under a sewing machine though.

[R8R]

So I have four tables in use at my shop right now - how about a review?

1) VERY old K-leg under a butcher block top someone routed out for their grandma's new mini walking foot. Was too much machine for her, they sold it to me.

Verdict: I hate K-legs. Harder to adjust, often shaky from side to side and they don't accept casters. They are an old school solution of taking a work bench support and pushing the front legs in to make room for the operator. Compromises abound. I will probably dump these and get L-legs for it.

2) A single column L-leg table, on casters, under my Juki 2810. This is the same table Artisan sells.

Verdict: great table. L-leg tables are easier to adjust than old K-leg tables and stem casters are easy to put on, they screw right into where the leveler feet go. HOWEVER, the materials matter. L-legs made of thinner material can be bendy and twisty and not sturdy at all. The metal on these is plenty thick and my 2810 (which is about 130 lbs for just the head) is well supported. Artisan's table tops are plywood core with a 1/4" layer of MDF top and bottom, and 1/8" melamine on top, banded with thick grey vinyl. The tops are very smooth and even. Time will tell if the MDF is an issue but it makes for a smooth table with no rough exposed ply underneath.

3) A double column L-leg stand on casters, also from Artisan. This is under my new-to-me Mauser 335 on a U-shape cutout table.

Verdict: even better. This is the extra rigid version Artisan sells for their 3200 "Toro" cylinder machines. The table that came with the 335 was super whimpy so I set this up instead. Overkill maybe but it's super solid.

4) TSS ergonomic adjustable L-leg table that came with this used Juki LK-1900A I just got. This is the best sewing table in the universe. Super beefy tubing. Big smooth casters. Ultra rigid and solid. Cranks for height and table tilt. Channel box along the back for cables and power for chaining machines together. If I could find more I'd have these under every table in my shop.

 

 

 

[R8R]

Note:

Some L-leg stands that have casters will have a bent lower brace that holds the treadle so it is lower to the floor (because the casters add height):

 

While some will just have blocks or sections of tubing added, like the Artisan tables I use - (block circled)

 

[R8R]

Better shot of this table I got for the Mauser. Unless I find another TSS table, these will be my go to.

 

[shoepatcher]

Nice set up and nice new machines.  One is a Juki 2810 if I am not mistaken.  The Mauser is a Pfaff335 made at their China plant were the Pfaff 335's are made.

glenn