Seiko STW-8B - question on servo with needle positioner

[katit]

Took stand apart. I think I will give it a shot. Like I thought an hour with grinder, some spray cans with paint, some new hardware and it will be good to go. So far 3 thing I'm potentially going to like about machine if I make it work: a. Pedal lift (seller said he got rear linkage parts hopefully will get them this week) should be better than knee lift and rear lever to raise feet much easier to operate, b. Reverse lever seem to be easier to use than one I got in PFAFF, c. Head is not as bulky as in PFAFF, looks easier to move work around it (like headrests)

 

2 hours ago, Matt S said:

I'd be happy with that machine at double the price you paid. It's still a fraction of what a machine of this quality would cost new, so I always figure on spending some time and money in cleaning up any machine I buy second hand.

Specifically I suggest oiling it heavily and leaving over night. Then fit a brand new top quality needle (correct class and size of course) and bobbin before retiming. Find the parts book online and write down all the ones that could do with replacement. Buy the ones you definitely need and wait to buy the "would be nice" ones until the machine has made some money. (The end cover isn't essential, but the bobbin cover nearly is.) Clean whatever schmoo you can without removing parts. Polish away any burrs or nicks on the shuttle hook that you can.

As you've said there's not much this machine can do that your Pfaff cannot (except reverse). However you might find it useful to have your two machines setup to do different sorts of work -- the Seiko for v69/tkt40 thread and the Pfaff for v138/tkt20 for instance. That would mean less time adjusting the machine between different operations. Plus you'll have a backup in case of a sudden failure of your other machine.

Matt, I got it all oiled. Ordered #19 needles Organ titanium 135x17. Going to order some bobbins.

I do have bobbin cover, it's off on pictures but I got it. Front cover I have it too, I just need to get knurled bolt and drill out broken stud.

What do you mean when you say PFAFF cannot do reverse? 

My plan A clean and make it sew, then plan B get it nicely restored (painted). Didn't find any parts lists yet.

 

I will see how it works out and if all well I will be considering selling one machine. I don't and don't plan on doing any #69 sewing. 90% will be #92 and maybe sometimes 138 for topstitching.

Edited December 9, 2018 by katit

[katit]

I got bobbins and needles ordered. I tried again after oiling, cleaning hook/shuttle, properly threading. Needle is too big, bottom thread is whatever I got from seller, but anyways. It's not working, I get 3-4 stitches and then thread get's frayed. Would you say I need to order new bottom plate and dog? Those look really worn. And what are those smooth feet should be good for? I'm thinking if I should get some extra feet's. All takes time, mine as well order all at the same time..

[Matt S]

2 hours ago, katit said:

Took stand apart. I think I will give it a shot. Like I thought an hour with grinder, some spray cans with paint, some new hardware and it will be good to go. So far 3 thing I'm potentially going to like about machine if I make it work: a. Pedal lift (seller said he got rear linkage parts hopefully will get them this week) should be better than knee lift and rear lever to raise feet much easier to operate, b. Reverse lever seem to be easier to use than one I got in PFAFF, c. Head is not as bulky as in PFAFF, looks easier to move work around it (like headrests)

 

Matt, I got it all oiled. Ordered #19 needles Organ titanium 135x17. Going to order some bobbins.

I do have bobbin cover, it's off on pictures but I got it. Front cover I have it too, I just need to get knurled bolt and drill out broken stud.

What do you mean when you say PFAFF cannot do reverse? 

My plan A clean and make it sew, then plan B get it nicely restored (painted). Didn't find any parts lists yet.

Glad you have those parts, you got a great deal. Hopefully it won't take you long to get it in top condition. Seikos are good machines.

Apologies, I thought that your Pfaff didn't have reverse.

[dikman]

Fraying thread - it looks to me like something is catching one of the strands, check the feed dog, hook etc for burrs or rough spots. The takeup spring may not be set correctly, allowing slack thread which the hook can catch or the needle may pierce. It's the most likely culprit to me.

[DonInReno]

If it sewed ok and isn’t worn out it would be worth $400, but any machine not working is worth half price since there’s no telling what you’ll find, so you still did good at this price.  My advice is download a service manual, look at Uwe’s excellent videos and go through it cleaning and adjusting until it’s all been gone through - the fraying thread is probably an easily solved needle-hook adjustment, or dull hook, but everything needs to be gone through just based on the half assed epoxy fix and broken front cover screw - I predict you’ll find a half dozen other issues.

[katit]

1 hour ago, DonInReno said:

If it sewed ok and isn’t worn out it would be worth $400, but any machine not working is worth half price since there’s no telling what you’ll find, so you still did good at this price.  My advice is download a service manual, look at Uwe’s excellent videos and go through it cleaning and adjusting until it’s all been gone through - the fraying thread is probably an easily solved needle-hook adjustment, or dull hook, but everything needs to be gone through just based on the half assed epoxy fix and broken front cover screw - I predict you’ll find a half dozen other issues.

Don, 

I don't see any other damage so far. Machine was workhorse for sure, but it wasn't dry. I now see it as a project. I got it to sew without fraying thread but it still skips. I didn't do any adjustments yet and needle is some really oversized one for the threads. And bottom thread is mismatch. Anyway, I'm thinking I will replace feed dog and plate too, they look very worn and hole maybe another reason for fraying thread.

So, at the end it may be $500-600 but with bunch of accessories, servo/positioner, some new parts and lot's of labor. I am kind of pleased to see that prices on stuff is like 1/3 of prices on my PFAFF parts/accessories.

 

P.S. Any hints on winding bobbins without winder? I wonder if my PFAFF winder will work, but those bobbins don't have cutoffs..

Edited December 10, 2018 by katit

[katit]

1 hour ago, DonInReno said:

My advice is download a service manual, look at Uwe’s excellent videos and go through it cleaning and adjusting until it’s all been gone through

I found videos. But can't find any service manuals. Any help? I know machine is the same as Consew 226R and Consew 226R user manual is all I have.

[dikman]

If you look at a consew 206 manual you may be able to relate some of the adjustments to yours.

[DonInReno]

15 minutes ago, katit said:

found videos. But can't find any service manuals. Any help? I know machine is the same as Consew 226R and Consew 226R user manual is all I have.

Keep in mind this is one version of a very popular design that varies little between manufacturers - the adjustment basics are very similar between the brands for the most part.

 

 

Using a $10 commercial bobbin winder and a free or nearly free residential sewing machine motor mounted to a board makes an easy to use variable speed bobbin winder.

[katit]

Thanks! I got it (file is not working here but I found link):

http://keysew.com/Webpages/DemoImages/USNavySinger111WConsew225REPAIR.pdf