best punching board for leather

[Alexis1234]

I use a chunk of lead- works great. When it gets too dinged up, just smooth it out with a hammer.

[Tugadude]

For quietness put the endgrain slab on a piece of foam insulation board.  It will help mute the sound.

[fredk]

10 hours ago, jimi said:

I think many moons ago some saddle makers in the UK used what they had on hand which was lead. they melted it into a slab and used that for punching. Once it got a bit beaten up they just remelted it and you had it new again. it also seems not to affect the edge of the tool. There is actually a video somewhere i think about a tour of the walsall saddlery museum and in the process of making a strap, the guy punches the holes on one of these lead slabs.

 

4 hours ago, Alexis1234 said:

I use a chunk of lead- works great. When it gets too dinged up, just smooth it out with a hammer.

I have a few small blocks of lead which I used to use for punching into. I mainly used them when I was on-site at a history presentation and I was doing a leather work demo. When heavily marked I just melted it down and let it set again with a fresh surface. But I found it still dulled the punches as it is still metal. I still occasionally use one of the lead blocks when I'm too lazy to move over to the big block just for one small hole

 

4 hours ago, Tugadude said:

For quietness put the endgrain slab on a piece of foam insulation board.  It will help mute the sound.

My block sits on a 6mm thick rubber slab on a special stamping/punching table I built. I do need to add extra rubber to the bottom of the table tho as it is still not quiet enough

Edited December 15, 2018 by fredk

[fredk]

19 hours ago, Treesner said:

 could probably save a little time and just cut some 4x4 posts, less glue for you to hit with your tools, glue really dulls your tools (I know from woodworking with plywood and laminating). the tree stump is a cool idea too

1. My timber yard had no 4 x 4 in stock when I visited. Largest was 2.5 x 3. But they had some 2 x 2 off-cuts and they cut it down and the blocks cost me all of £2 [$3]

2. I used standard water-proof woodworking PVA. Gluing to about 1/2" of each end of each block. That should take care of the punch hitting a glued joint. No way is the punch going to go in as much as 3/8", maybe 1/4" but no more

3. The boards around the outside are mostly decorative - to make it all look tidy. Very little chance of a block coming loose and breaking away. They also make a grip for easy lifting and moving of the block. I made my block to fit the top of a special stamping/punching table I built

4. The roughness of the end grain on mine can leave marks on the leather sometimes. I usually punch from grain to flesh, but some times I need to go flesh to grain. To prevent wood grain marks I just put a thin bit of waste leather between the two. A harder wood than mine would probably have a smoother end grain. My wood is cheap framing white-wood. The cheapest one can get

Edited December 15, 2018 by fredk

[TonyV]

I have a 12 in long pice of 8x8 timber that I use for various projects, including leather punching.  End grain for leather punching, of course.

[Greenwood]

I use a hockey puck on steel backing works great.  Pucks may not be available in all parts of the world but are plentiful here in Canada.

[Treesner]

On 12/14/2018 at 4:37 PM, fredk said:

1. My timber yard had no 4 x 4 in stock when I visited. Largest was 2.5 x 3. But they had some 2 x 2 off-cuts and they cut it down and the blocks cost me all of £2 [$3]

2. I used standard water-proof woodworking PVA. Gluing to about 1/2" of each end of each block. That should take care of the punch hitting a glued joint. No way is the punch going to go in as much as 3/8", maybe 1/4" but no more

3. The boards around the outside are mostly decorative - to make it all look tidy. Very little chance of a block coming loose and breaking away. They also make a grip for easy lifting and moving of the block. I made my block to fit the top of a special stamping/punching table I built

4. The roughness of the end grain on mine can leave marks on the leather sometimes. I usually punch from grain to flesh, but some times I need to go flesh to grain. To prevent wood grain marks I just put a thin bit of waste leather between the two. A harder wood than mine would probably have a smoother end grain. My wood is cheap framing white-wood. The cheapest one can get

thanks for the extra tips

[Chief Filipino]

I have a limited work space and have found that gluing a couple 8/9oz or higher pieces of vegtan scrap together gives me a great punching surface. When it gets too many holes I just make another one with more scrap. I use it on top of my granite slab.

Edited December 19, 2018 by Chief Filipino

[PatriotO2]

On 12/14/2018 at 4:37 PM, fredk said:

1. My timber yard had no 4 x 4 in stock when I visited. Largest was 2.5 x 3. But they had some 2 x 2 off-cuts and they cut it down and the blocks cost me all of £2 [$3]

2. I used standard water-proof woodworking PVA. Gluing to about 1/2" of each end of each block. That should take care of the punch hitting a glued joint. No way is the punch going to go in as much as 3/8", maybe 1/4" but no more

3. The boards around the outside are mostly decorative - to make it all look tidy. Very little chance of a block coming loose and breaking away. They also make a grip for easy lifting and moving of the block. I made my block to fit the top of a special stamping/punching table I built

4. The roughness of the end grain on mine can leave marks on the leather sometimes. I usually punch from grain to flesh, but some times I need to go flesh to grain. To prevent wood grain marks I just put a thin bit of waste leather between the two. A harder wood than mine would probably have a smoother end grain. My wood is cheap framing white-wood. The cheapest one can get

Wood end grain is the gentlest on chisel tips and when the wood surface gets ragged just refresh it with a belt sander.