Members Alexis1234 Posted December 14, 2018 Members Report Posted December 14, 2018 I use a chunk of lead- works great. When it gets too dinged up, just smooth it out with a hammer. Quote
Members Tugadude Posted December 14, 2018 Members Report Posted December 14, 2018 For quietness put the endgrain slab on a piece of foam insulation board. It will help mute the sound. Quote
Contributing Member fredk Posted December 15, 2018 Contributing Member Report Posted December 15, 2018 (edited) 10 hours ago, jimi said: I think many moons ago some saddle makers in the UK used what they had on hand which was lead. they melted it into a slab and used that for punching. Once it got a bit beaten up they just remelted it and you had it new again. it also seems not to affect the edge of the tool. There is actually a video somewhere i think about a tour of the walsall saddlery museum and in the process of making a strap, the guy punches the holes on one of these lead slabs. 4 hours ago, Alexis1234 said: I use a chunk of lead- works great. When it gets too dinged up, just smooth it out with a hammer. I have a few small blocks of lead which I used to use for punching into. I mainly used them when I was on-site at a history presentation and I was doing a leather work demo. When heavily marked I just melted it down and let it set again with a fresh surface. But I found it still dulled the punches as it is still metal. I still occasionally use one of the lead blocks when I'm too lazy to move over to the big block just for one small hole 4 hours ago, Tugadude said: For quietness put the endgrain slab on a piece of foam insulation board. It will help mute the sound. My block sits on a 6mm thick rubber slab on a special stamping/punching table I built. I do need to add extra rubber to the bottom of the table tho as it is still not quiet enough Edited December 15, 2018 by fredk Quote Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Contributing Member fredk Posted December 15, 2018 Contributing Member Report Posted December 15, 2018 (edited) 19 hours ago, Treesner said: could probably save a little time and just cut some 4x4 posts, less glue for you to hit with your tools, glue really dulls your tools (I know from woodworking with plywood and laminating). the tree stump is a cool idea too 1. My timber yard had no 4 x 4 in stock when I visited. Largest was 2.5 x 3. But they had some 2 x 2 off-cuts and they cut it down and the blocks cost me all of £2 [$3] 2. I used standard water-proof woodworking PVA. Gluing to about 1/2" of each end of each block. That should take care of the punch hitting a glued joint. No way is the punch going to go in as much as 3/8", maybe 1/4" but no more 3. The boards around the outside are mostly decorative - to make it all look tidy. Very little chance of a block coming loose and breaking away. They also make a grip for easy lifting and moving of the block. I made my block to fit the top of a special stamping/punching table I built 4. The roughness of the end grain on mine can leave marks on the leather sometimes. I usually punch from grain to flesh, but some times I need to go flesh to grain. To prevent wood grain marks I just put a thin bit of waste leather between the two. A harder wood than mine would probably have a smoother end grain. My wood is cheap framing white-wood. The cheapest one can get Edited December 15, 2018 by fredk Quote Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Members TonyV Posted December 15, 2018 Members Report Posted December 15, 2018 I have a 12 in long pice of 8x8 timber that I use for various projects, including leather punching. End grain for leather punching, of course. Quote
Members Greenwood Posted December 16, 2018 Members Report Posted December 16, 2018 I use a hockey puck on steel backing works great. Pucks may not be available in all parts of the world but are plentiful here in Canada. Quote
Members Treesner Posted December 17, 2018 Author Members Report Posted December 17, 2018 On 12/14/2018 at 4:37 PM, fredk said: 1. My timber yard had no 4 x 4 in stock when I visited. Largest was 2.5 x 3. But they had some 2 x 2 off-cuts and they cut it down and the blocks cost me all of £2 [$3] 2. I used standard water-proof woodworking PVA. Gluing to about 1/2" of each end of each block. That should take care of the punch hitting a glued joint. No way is the punch going to go in as much as 3/8", maybe 1/4" but no more 3. The boards around the outside are mostly decorative - to make it all look tidy. Very little chance of a block coming loose and breaking away. They also make a grip for easy lifting and moving of the block. I made my block to fit the top of a special stamping/punching table I built 4. The roughness of the end grain on mine can leave marks on the leather sometimes. I usually punch from grain to flesh, but some times I need to go flesh to grain. To prevent wood grain marks I just put a thin bit of waste leather between the two. A harder wood than mine would probably have a smoother end grain. My wood is cheap framing white-wood. The cheapest one can get thanks for the extra tips Quote
Members Chief Filipino Posted December 19, 2018 Members Report Posted December 19, 2018 (edited) I have a limited work space and have found that gluing a couple 8/9oz or higher pieces of vegtan scrap together gives me a great punching surface. When it gets too many holes I just make another one with more scrap. I use it on top of my granite slab. Edited December 19, 2018 by Chief Filipino Quote Halo-Halo Creations your home of culturally inspired handmade leather, calligraphy, and more. http://tinyurl.com/hhcreations
Members PatriotO2 Posted February 16, 2024 Members Report Posted February 16, 2024 On 12/14/2018 at 4:37 PM, fredk said: 1. My timber yard had no 4 x 4 in stock when I visited. Largest was 2.5 x 3. But they had some 2 x 2 off-cuts and they cut it down and the blocks cost me all of £2 [$3] 2. I used standard water-proof woodworking PVA. Gluing to about 1/2" of each end of each block. That should take care of the punch hitting a glued joint. No way is the punch going to go in as much as 3/8", maybe 1/4" but no more 3. The boards around the outside are mostly decorative - to make it all look tidy. Very little chance of a block coming loose and breaking away. They also make a grip for easy lifting and moving of the block. I made my block to fit the top of a special stamping/punching table I built 4. The roughness of the end grain on mine can leave marks on the leather sometimes. I usually punch from grain to flesh, but some times I need to go flesh to grain. To prevent wood grain marks I just put a thin bit of waste leather between the two. A harder wood than mine would probably have a smoother end grain. My wood is cheap framing white-wood. The cheapest one can get Wood end grain is the gentlest on chisel tips and when the wood surface gets ragged just refresh it with a belt sander. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.