Members dikman Posted December 30, 2018 Members Report Posted December 30, 2018 Second photo, the sawhorse brackets.......I bought a set of those way back in the mists of time and haven't seen any since! Until now. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Members ensitmike Posted December 31, 2018 Members Report Posted December 31, 2018 (edited) Wow that’s a big daddy welding rig you got there. Nice. Also did you do anything before applying the wax to the top? Was it just paste wax? If you ever want to apply a urethane or shallac will the wax be a problem? i have the same top and was looking to put a new top finish without ruining the patina. Edited December 31, 2018 by ensitmike Quote Jack of all trades, master of some.
Members Sugarkryptonite Posted December 31, 2018 Author Members Report Posted December 31, 2018 23 hours ago, Rockoboy said: WOW!! I have serious tool envy! I think you have one of the best equipped workshops I have ever seen. Ohh yeah, great job on the rebuild. Thanks 21 hours ago, dikman said: Second photo, the sawhorse brackets.......I bought a set of those way back in the mists of time and haven't seen any since! Until now. 1 hour ago, ensitmike said: Wow that’s a big daddy welding rig you got there. Nice. Also did you do anything before applying the wax to the top? Was it just paste wax? If you ever want to apply a urethane or shallac will the wax be a problem? i have the same top and was looking to put a new top finish without ruining the patina. Thanks! I had started sanding it in the hopes of getting it more uniform in color, but in the end decided against it and just to leave it how it was. I used mineral spirits to clean the top after I sanded it a bit, then just applied the finishing wax (yeah in a paste form, but made for wood). And yes if you wanted to apply urethane or shallac after you would definitely have to remove the wax. This top had some sort of shellac on it and was clogging up my sandpaper discs every 5 seconds...But like I said I just used mineral spirits to wipe it down then applied the wax, about 5 coats in total to get it to feel smooth. Worked on the foot pedal today since the table and machine didn't come with it (it was removed for some reason). Started out by designing the piece to be cut in Autocad, then cut it out on my dad's CNC plasma. Then bent it up on our sheet metal break. Finally, made some inserts for the mounts on the table to allow the pedal to pivot. Still need to weld up the corners and paint/apply some rubber or something to the face of it. Quote Singer 111W153 walking foot & Siruba W122-356 coverstitch
Members ensitmike Posted December 31, 2018 Members Report Posted December 31, 2018 (edited) 2 hours ago, Sugarkryptonite said: I had started sanding it in the hopes of getting it more uniform in color, but in the end decided against it and just to leave it how it was. I used mineral spirits to clean the top after I sanded it a bit, then just applied the finishing wax (yeah in a paste form, but made for wood). And yes if you wanted to apply urethane or shallac after you would definitely have to remove the wax. This top had some sort of shellac on it and was clogging up my sandpaper discs every 5 seconds...But like I said I just used mineral spirits to wipe it down then applied the wax, about 5 coats in total to get it to feel smooth. Awesome. Thank you for the great info. I think I’ll do the same. Mind if I ask why you ended up choose wax over something more durable/permanent like a polyeurethane coating, etc? Edited December 31, 2018 by ensitmike Quote Jack of all trades, master of some.
Members Sugarkryptonite Posted December 31, 2018 Author Members Report Posted December 31, 2018 8 hours ago, ensitmike said: Awesome. Thank you for the great info. I think I’ll do the same. Mind if I ask why you ended up choose wax over something more durable/permanent like a polyeurethane coating, etc? Just what I had on hand really, plus it's a more natural look. I was thinking of using poly and sometimes still wish I did... It's just more of a pain to get rid of after if you don't like it how it looks. From what I see it can look pretty plasticy Quote Singer 111W153 walking foot & Siruba W122-356 coverstitch
Members Sugarkryptonite Posted January 6, 2019 Author Members Report Posted January 6, 2019 (edited) Hi guys and gals, I finally got the machine installed in my room, messed around with the table quite a bit, installed and removed the legs, moved them over, bla bla, looks pretty good. I was hoping someone could help me with adjusting the presser foot knee lift. Whenever I do it, the rod on the machine seems to want to twist, and then all of a sudden it "lets go", and makes a spring type noise. From the videos I've watched, the action is suppose to be smooth. Also, could someone explain how to adjust the spring that is on the rod itself with the set screw? Not sure where to set it exactly. Also, with the machine set at its lowest indicated of 5 stitches per inch, it produces an actual 6. Is there a way to adjust that, or is that the lowest the machine will go mechanically? I read you can adjust the set screw on the dial to make it read "true", but the adjustment will still bottom out in the same place, correct? Thirdly, the little aluminum looking piece on the front of the machine that you thread through 3 times is loose and moves up and down. Is that normal, or does it need to be tightened? As you can see in the last pic, the rod has been rubbing on the machine every time it moves up and down, not sure if it's the bend that it has is wrong or what...Not sure what they're suppose to look like. Edited January 6, 2019 by Sugarkryptonite Quote Singer 111W153 walking foot & Siruba W122-356 coverstitch
Members shoepatcher Posted January 9, 2019 Members Report Posted January 9, 2019 I have seen them where the rod enters the hole in the bracket and then just bends. It is held in place by a small cotter pin and there is no upward bend in the rod. You can also try bending the bracket out ward ever so slightly. remove the bracket from the machine before you try bending it in case you put to much strain on the bracket and snap it out of the casting . glenn Quote
Members Gregg From Keystone Sewing Posted January 9, 2019 Members Report Posted January 9, 2019 How the heck did I miss all of this action? Great thread, thanks for sharing. Love this. Quote Industrial sewing and cutting, parts sales and service, family owned since 1977, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania USA, 215/922.6900 info@keysew.com www.keysew.com
Members Sugarkryptonite Posted January 10, 2019 Author Members Report Posted January 10, 2019 (edited) 22 hours ago, shoepatcher said: I have seen them where the rod enters the hole in the bracket and then just bends. It is held in place by a small cotter pin and there is no upward bend in the rod. You can also try bending the bracket out ward ever so slightly. remove the bracket from the machine before you try bending it in case you put to much strain on the bracket and snap it out of the casting . glenn Good idea, thanks! I think that might be the problem, too. If I hold the top of the rod where the second bend is and stop it from twisting, it's much smoother. Any idea about setting the spring height/tension with the set screw on the rod itself? 11 hours ago, Gregg From Keystone Sewing said: How the heck did I miss all of this action? Great thread, thanks for sharing. Love this. Thanks Gregg! Appreciated. Edited January 10, 2019 by Sugarkryptonite Quote Singer 111W153 walking foot & Siruba W122-356 coverstitch
Members shoepatcher Posted January 10, 2019 Members Report Posted January 10, 2019 The spring should be under no tension until you raise the foot. That is how I would set it. glenn Quote
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