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Posted

The bobbin is not threaded correctly either.  Off the right edge of the photo is a small slot the the thread needs to be pulled through so it passes under the spring to provide bobbin tension.  It then should come around the front past the latch opener (the triangular shape in the lower right of the photo).  Re-check your manual or look at YouTube videos for your machine to see correct threading.

This machine is threaded the same way yours should be even though it is a different mfg and is a cylinder arm instead of flat bed. 

Tom

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Posted

I noticed you started stitchng with two threads held back, and at some point one disappeared and you were left holding one thread.  I think these guys have it right.  It does appear that the needle is being threaded right to left rather than left to right and the hook is simply pulling the thread back out of the needle but it appears that it's magically escaping the eye.  

 

The other possibility is that you have a broken needle that took a hook strike to the eye, and one side of the needle hole is actually broken but appears to be whole because the break springs shut and closes the gap when not actively sewing.

 

 

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Posted

Merry Christmas!

Thanks for all the great advice. I have no manual to refer to so you all are my only resource.

I see that I’m doing several things incorrectly:

#1 threading the needle from the wrong side

#2 threading the bobbin wrong

#3. Not passing the thread through the foot 

#4  passing the thread incorrectly through the tension device

There are probably other things that I’m doing wrong also but with your help I’ll learn  

The threading video was a great help.  I’ll try out my new knowledge after Christmas dinner  

thanks to all...

and to all a Merry Christmas ,

Bill

 

 

Posted

We all have to start from somewhere. This site is a great resource. Enjoy your Christmas dinner, just put ours in the oven and hopefully it's going to be great as it is my first time, yes my first go ever cooking Christmas dinner. Should be a chuckle.

kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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Posted

I must admit I'm puzzled how you managed to sew canvas ok if this is the way you've always threaded the needle and bobbin.:blink:

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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Posted

Sorry about the double post.  I'm new to this.

Great suggestion to post on youtube.  I also downsized my bobbin photo.

 

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Posted

Hallelujah!!!

After following everyone's suggestions, my  machine is sewing well again.

I've never had any bobbin tension, so I took the bobbin case out to see how the tension spring worked.  After placing the thread under the bobbin, voila!, I  had bobbin tension.

I'm still not sure how to pull the thread under the tension spring when the bobbin case is installed.  I'll probably figure it out with practice.

Thanks again,

And a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to All,

Bill

Posted

Bill this youtube video maybe of some help. As far as adjusting bobbin tension I think there is a screw on the side of the bobbin case holder around the five o'clock position that you screw in to add bobbin tension or out for less tension, make small adjustments like 1/16 of a turn. From an engineering point of view all sewing machines are intriguing marvels of machinery that basicly haven't changed in the last hundred years. Particularly when come to think of how everything has to be in perfect sink to lock together two simple pieces of thread to form a simple tough stitch to attach pieces of material together. What would be a nice improvement to sewing machine engineering wouldn't be more efficient motors, more computer controls or stitches but the elimination of having too wind bobbins and have the bobbin thread come off a large thread spool from underneath the machine.

kgg

 

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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Posted
2 hours ago, kgg said:

SNIP

From an engineering point of view all sewing machines are intriguing marvels of machinery that basicly haven't changed in the last hundred years. Particularly when come to think of how everything has to be in perfect sink to lock together two simple pieces of thread to form a simple tough stitch to attach pieces of material together. What would be a nice improvement to sewing machine engineering wouldn't be more efficient motors, more computer controls or stitches but the elimination of having too wind bobbins and have the bobbin thread come off a large thread spool from underneath the machine.

kgg

 

Many sewers have pondered the mysteries of the bobbin system, hoping to discover a way to use a spool of thread instead of a wound bobbin inside a case. The best they have come up with is the chainstitch mechanism. This system only uses one spool of thread which is on the top. Aside from the appearance on the underside, the problem with a chainstitch is that unless it is waxed, or sewn over, it can totally unravel by pulling on the thread in just the right direction. Garments sewn with a chainstich are usually sewn over at the beginning and end to keep the thread from unraveling.

An example of a waxed chainstitch would be a dogleg style leather rifle case. They are usually sewn on a Puritan chainstitch machine with linen thread run through liquid beeswax in a huge wax pot on top of the machine. The chain is protected by the material lining inside the case. The same chainstitch system is used in the McKay sole stitchers with a rotating horn. With these the chain is covered by the slip-in insole, as well as wax on the thread.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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