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Posted
6 minutes ago, bigdogpaw said:

Is there any advantage to using the open back ones? 

I don't know about advantage of using them, but the disadvantage is if the back is seen and it needs to be equal to the front.

Where possible, I use double cap rivets, but I have no idea of the comparative strengths or weaknesses.

Kindest regards

Brian

 

"Whether you think you can or whether you think you can't, you are right"  Henry Ford

Machines: Singer 201p, Kennedy,  Singer 31K20, Singer 66K16 ("boat anchor" condition), Protex TY8B Cylinder Arm (Consew 227r copy), Unbranded Walking Foot (Sailrite LSV-1 copy)

Posted
10 hours ago, bigdogpaw said:

Thank you for the info.Very helpful. Is there any advantage to using the open back ones? 

I have been able to use the 1/8" open backs very successfully on belt/strap ends where I have folded it over for the buckle.  I typically skive the end (as is recommended) which allows me to easily tighten the screws down so that they hold.  The advantage of using the open backs is that you can get them tighter than a traditional Chicago screw because you don't have a limited depth on the cap end.  That is where knowing how thick your overall depth that is to be secured is so that you can best choose the proper material to secure it.  The measurement of a screw post, all types, is identifying the distance between the inside of both caps when installed to its full depth, they can be used to secure thicker measurements.  

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Members
Posted

Chicago screws are available in black coating.  It will not last forever but a clear enamel or nail polish can extend that for a long time.  Since neither brass nor stainless are black, the color, in practical terms, has to be a coating (unless you want to be paying far more than 25 cents apiece).  You will have to decide whether you want the strongest or the strongest black.

The strongest would be something like stainless with a really wide cap or a washer beneath it on both sides.  It would be a lot stronger to have a few rows of stitching from end to end, but that greatly increases the labor.

A brass Chicago screw has a 3/16" thick stem that is effectively solid brass once set.  Most copper rivets are 1/8" stem or thinner, and copper is a softer metal than brass.  A copper rivet in leather is considered a permanent type of attachment, so a brass thread-locked Chicago screw should be even more so... plus, they are simple to set.

  • Contributing Member
Posted (edited)

Any problem I've ever had with setting rivets was the result of setting it by hand, and not being able to align the rivet/leather correctly, or applying too little or too much pressure, resulting in poorly set rivets (and snaps) and a lot of frustration.

You might consider getting a bench mounted press like the one available here: http://www.campbell-randall.com/product/italian-twist-press-no-2. This machine has allowed me to set rivets perfectly, and at a very reasonable price. It can also be used to set snaps and grommets. Dies are sold separately and can be purchased from other suppliers (like Ohio Travel Bag).

TWP-No283601.JPG

Edited by LatigoAmigo
  • 3 weeks later...
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Posted
On 12/23/2018 at 5:36 PM, NVLeatherWorx said:

Nice!  Way to go Dwight.  I have also used Chicago screws on some models and put a dab of Loctite in their to "seal" the deal.

Go to you local auto parts store an get blue thread lock. Chicago screws won't come out then

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