check me on stitching tools

[ADubya]

So...I'm totally new.  Been researching on what to buy but can't seem to find a thread/post/etc. that lays it out simply for me.   I have some things picked out or ordered and I'm not sure about a few things.

I want to do basic saddle stitching to start.  On belts, key rings, perhaps some wallets.

I need help on what to buy to start....please let me know if what I have picked is wrong.

 

-I'm going to make a stitching pony this week.

-I have John James size 1/0 and 2 needles ordered.

 

Have picked out but haven't ordered:

-0.8mm Tiger Thread

-Craftool Pro stitching groover

-Kyoshin-Elle Diamond Pricking Irons (3mmx2 tooth and 3mmx6 tooth)

-Book: Stohlman Art of Hand Sewing Leather

 

Can't figure out what size awl blade...was thinking a Barry King.  Size 0? 38mm long by 2.6mm wide?  Should I rule out an Osborne?  I like the idea of interchangeable awl blade.

Can I just go with a basic flat side awl haft?  I like the BK but not keen on spending $50.  Thoughts?

Any other tools I'm forgetting?

Thanks

AW

Edited January 15, 2019 by ADubya

[LatigoAmigo]

1 hour ago, ADubya said:

-Book: Stohlman Art of Hand Sewing Leather

 

That is where to start. Some more books on leather are available (maybe even at your local library), and the various authors will help you decide what tools and supplies you will want to stock up on. Good luck.

[bikermutt07]

2 hours ago, LatigoAmigo said:

That is where to start. Some more books on leather are available (maybe even at your local library), and the various authors will help you decide what tools and supplies you will want to stock up on. Good luck.

That and his book Leather Tools How to use How to Sharpen.

You will gain a wealth of information from just those two.

Oh and 3mm chisels may be a bit small for .8 tiger. Try 4mm or at least the 3.85mm.

Edited January 16, 2019 by bikermutt07

[YinTx]

Just some thoughts since you are just starting.

You may discover you don't like to hand stitch.  It is slow going, and frustrating to begin with until you get it figured out.  Videos are free on how to stitch by hand, and plentiful, which could save you buying the book for now.

You may find you like 0.6mm thread better.  Many people sell small lengths (25 yards or so) for $6 or less plus shipping, might be a way to go before you commit to 500 yards of thread and decide you want a different size.  Or material. ( I have a lot of Tiger, but find I mostly stitch with linen)  Mostly, don't recommend cheap thread.  It is the least expensive component of hand stitching, time you put into it is worth more than any savings you might get with the 3 foot of thread you use on a project.

Don't spend money on a stitching groover just yet.  It isn't necessary at all, and many advice against it.  If you discover as you go along that you really want to have your stitches sunken into the leather, then go ahead and get one.

You can make a decent stitch without expensive irons.  Once you decide you like to hand stitch, then do some research on the dozens of irons available, pick it then.

Awls:  I have an Osborne, never use it.  Used a cheap Tandy awl more.  Don't like it that much either, but it worked fine to start.  Most important is that it is sharp and well stropped, something you will have a hard time finding, so will have to learn to do it yourself.  Flat blade is the style you need to start, not the round one.

You also need a set of dividers to mark your line.  Alternatively, you can use a scratch awl and a ruler, but dividers are easier.

Once you get into it, you'll have a better idea of what you want.  My thoughts are not to go all in high dollar to start, then get the tools that best fit your style that you develop.

YinTx

 

[DJole]

What YinTx wrote-- ditto for me. 
Also, use cheaper leather for learning and practicing things. Once you have a technique down,  you are less likely to ruin a more expensive piece.

[zuludog]

There are loads of videos on YouTube about leatherwork. Start by searching for 'saddle stitch' and and 'beginners leatherwork tools'. Have a look at those for items that interest you, and you will see how others do their stitching. I can recommend those by Ian Atkinson and Nigel Armitage

For several years I used a stitching groover, it was just one of the things that was done. Then about 18 months ago I went to a demonstration & lecture by Nigel Armitage, and on his recommendation I changed to just marking the line of stitching with dividers, which I found were easier to use, and gave better results. I got a pair of dividers from the secondhand tool stall at my local market for £2-50, say less than $3-50, and they do the job well enough

I think you will find stitching chisels with 4mm spacing easier to start with; once you've got the hang of things you can get smaller/narrower as you need them. It helps if you lubricate the prongs with beeswax

Try 0,6mm Tiger and 18/3 linen thread to start with; get shortish lengths, say 25m; see how you go, and take it from there

In theory a chisel is all you need to make the holes, but in practice you might need to do some extra work with an awl. Traditionally you bought a separate blade and haft, then mounted and sharpened it yourself, which is a right pain and takes ages. So look for an awl that's ready to use. Don't use the 4-in-1 awl sold by Tandy as it's not very good, and expensive. I suggest you get the simple fixed blade awl from Tandy (Stitching Awl with 26mmBlade; #31218 - 01)   Even so, any new awl can be improved by a bit of sharpening on a fine stone, or fine wet & dry paper, followed by a strop

You can make your own strop from an oddment of wood and leather - there are loads of examples on YouTube. This will be just about the easiest piece of leatherwork you'll do

If you are starting you may well find it is worth buying into one of Tandy's discount schemes

Using a steel hammer on stitching chisels is OK for a while, but eventually it will damage them. You should use a soft hammer, like wood, nylon, or hide

Edited January 16, 2019 by zuludog

[ADubya]

Thanks for the replies....I have been and continue reading and watching YouTube vids daily.  I've seen Atkinson and Armitage but will continue watching more, trying to build up my knowledge.

I've just started with basic belts, but will soon start practicing stitching.  I ordered the Stohlman book and some scrap leather.  I'm going to pass on the groover for now and just use a divider.

If I feel brave enough, I'll post some pics of my work haha.

[zuludog]

Be careful when you buy John James needles, as there is scope for confusion because they have two similar numbering systems for needle sizes

Size 2/0 is too big for most leatherwork unless you are doing really thick, heavy leather

The size you want for most general leatherwork is 002, John James product code L3912

That is clearly explained on this video by Nigel Atkinson between 5min 30secs and 7min 45sec - 'Hand Stitching Leather' though of course it's well worth watching the whole video

If, unfortunately, you have bought size 2/0 by mistake, well just put it down to experience, though they might just come in for something in the future. The needles are not so expensive that you couldn't buy a packet of the correct size 002

[Tugadude]

When starting out, get affordable tools.  If there is a Harbor Freight store in your area or similar, hit them up.  You can get a ton of tools there that will suffice until you get yourself sorted out.  You can get a hammer with plastic heads for a couple dollars that will work great with chisels.  You can also get tools for cutting, sandpaper, rulers, etc. there.

For the leather-specific tools, I suggest Tandy if you have one locally.  They have budget tools and some very nice ones too called Craftool Pro I believe.  Personally, I got great results from their black stitching chisels.  get a two prong and a six prong and you will be in business.  The 2-prong is for curves.  Nigel Armitage covers this in his videos which I recommend.  Tandy has a basic awl, the 4-in-1 mentioned above and a really nice Craftool Pro awl.  I also recommend against using a stitch groover unless you are doing something where you really want to recess the stitches.  I never use one anymore.  For one thing the recessed stitching tends to flatten out and lose the nice angled, zig-zag pattern I find so appealing.  I don't do holsters, but if I did, I might use a groover on them.  For watch straps, bags and such, no.

 

Edited January 18, 2019 by Tugadude

[zuludog]

22 hours ago, zuludog said:

Be careful when you buy John James needles, as there is scope for confusion because they have two similar numbering systems for needle sizes

Size 2/0 is too big for most leatherwork unless you are doing really thick, heavy leather

The size you want for most general leatherwork is 002, John James product code L3912

That is clearly explained on this video by Nigel Atkinson between 5min 30secs and 7min 45sec - 'Hand Stitching Leather' though of course it's well worth watching the whole video

If, unfortunately, you have bought size 2/0 by mistake, well just put it down to experience, though they might just come in for something in the future. The needles are not so expensive that you couldn't buy a packet of the correct size 002

Sorry, a slip of the keyboard. I meant Ian Atkinson

[ADubya]

Hey...follow up question.  Looking for advice on my first leather purchase for practice and simple wallets.  Probably some multi-pocket card wallets with back side money clip.

I have some scrap leather but its super thick.  I'm looking at some 2-4oz. weights.  My thinking is if I do 3-4 layers then 2oz is good.  I'm looking at Maverick, SLC, etc....

I see some people say 4-5 oz for back and 2-3 for inside pockets? Any advice on what temper, size and weight hides to buy just starting out?

Edited January 23, 2019 by ADubya