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Posted

I know this has probably an old question but I would like to hear from people who are currently using the patcher machines. My question is are any of you using them to sew flat seams on 5-6 oz each piece. Particularly on tote leather bags. I like the concept of turning the head as to be able to sew the seam running the bag up the arm length. Hope that make sense. Are any of you doing this and how well does it work. Also what thread size are you using? Looking forward to hearing all replies. Thanks Ken

Machines: Adler 69 , Adler 30-7, Adler 467, Cowboy  bell skiver,  Beilers embossing machine

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Posted

I have sewn with patchers from Singer and Adler for decades. I currently own a Singer 29k71 and an Adler 30-7. I keep #69 bonded nylon thread in the Singer, because it has a super tiny bobbin. The Adler has a larger bobbin and stronger take-up parts so I use #92 and #138 thread in it, as the job demands.

I only use these machines when a flat bed walking foot machine can't do the job. Flat beds are best for flat work seams. The patchers are used to sew patches over pockets, or onto sleeves, or to sew small round things (think koozies), or long circular items (think cue stick or rifle bag), or inside purses and other bags. They are specialized machines because of their universal top feed. It is difficult to maintain a straight stitch line on a patcher since there is no easy way to install an edge guide. Also, the teeth will leave serious marks in veg-tan leather.

You can definitely sew straps and flaps and zippers onto tote bags with a patcher. Just staple, pin, or tape the straps in place before you sew. But, get a flat bed walking foot machine, with an edge guide, for the basic flat seam and piping construction. Many have oversize bobbins that hold lots of thread, up to #138.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

Posted

I glue a pc. of  2mm teflon to the toe of my shoe patcher.  If you scuff it with sandpaper

on the back side and clean the toe with acetone or lacquer thinner you can glue

it down with good results.  I've used both contact cement and epoxy.  You only need

about a inch or so forward of the pivot.   Round off the teflon so it won't grab on the edge.

If anybody has a source for gluable teflon pls. let me know.

 

You can do a lot with a shoe patcher using  this slight modification. Leather drags.

  • Members
Posted (edited)

Or try shrink hose on the presser foot.

Regarding Teflon - you can buy Teflon sheets with an adhesive side - not sure if this helps you.

https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/?s=teflon

(scroll down a bit - they have different thicknesses)

Edited by Constabulary

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

  • Members
Posted (edited)

Thanks guys. Wiz I can’t sew the flat seams that I am talking about on a flatbed or cyl arm. You may get one of them but not the second one.  At least I can’t. That’s why the interest in the patcher.

Edited by klutes

Machines: Adler 69 , Adler 30-7, Adler 467, Cowboy  bell skiver,  Beilers embossing machine

  • Moderator
Posted
58 minutes ago, klutes said:

Thanks guys. Wiz I can’t sew the flat seams that I am talking about on a flatbed or cyl arm. You may get one of them but not the second one.  At least I can’t. That’s why the interest in the patcher.

Then seek out an Adler 30-7 or 30-70, or a Singer 29k72, or 29k172 on a power stand. These are all long arm, large bobbin patchers. The Adlers can both clear and sew up to 3/8, while the Singer maxes out at 5/16 inch. A motorized machine lets you keep one hand on the work and the other on the butterfly knobs on the direction control ring. I had a Singer 29k172 I'd sell ya but it is gone now.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

  • Members
Posted

Ok thanks 

Machines: Adler 69 , Adler 30-7, Adler 467, Cowboy  bell skiver,  Beilers embossing machine

Posted

Klutes, in case you're not aware, removable work plates are available for many patchers.   My Claes has a wooden one.  I've not thought about it, but I suspect a multi directional/"rotating" edge guide could be dreamed up for it if necessary.

 

IMG_2969.JPG

 

  • Members
Posted (edited)

I've had quite of a number of Singer long arm large bobbin (it's not that big) machines and I still keep one in my shop.  I originally had hoped to be using them to sew inside awkward spots in bags, which sounds like what you want to do.  I've ultimately decided that it's not really a viable machine to do this kind of work, except perhaps to sew smaller pieces on (patches).  It is extremely difficult to get the stitching as perfect as I'd like, as mentioned by others it's hard to get a consistently straight line.  Can you do it with extreme care? Yes it's possible but it's hard and very easy to make a mistake.   They certainly are a worthwhile machine to have, that rotating head is very useful at times,  but if your goal is to use it as a primary machine to sew entire bags you may be disappointed... my two cents.

Oh and I pretty much always use 135 thread in mine.

 

Edited by Willbury
  • Members
Posted

Thanks for the replys. It wouldn’t be my primary machine for sure. Has anyone tried the hand crank models . not sure what brand they are . Overseas models.

Machines: Adler 69 , Adler 30-7, Adler 467, Cowboy  bell skiver,  Beilers embossing machine

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