singer 211g156

[brmax]

Ok we are vaguely getting some where. 

In addressing any of these situations it helps, or one must explain in their way what they are using, where in the process they are working. 

So with this maybe others can chime in. With the expectation of knowing already or seeing in text what the operator is using. 

Like thread size, needle size. These may be skipped later in conversation or post if 1st question is a bit closer in direction. 

So getting along here, If you lift the hand lever for the presser feet to raise,  this should as expected release the tensioner to enable an easier thread pull. 

This same effect as you, I think considered is correct, being the same should work for the knee bump lift. Its a touchy art the knee bumper. So Yep spot on there. 

In all this hot air im puttin out, help me in please explaining, your ending expectation through your question. This can help us, you and future readers. ( like if your knee bolster doest work) explain expected results 

I as all others here including you learn these troubleshooting tips along the way. It works with anything especially when others have the usual thousand other sewing and leather things on their mind. 

Floyd

[tardis86]

IDK why when I reply it keeps quoting my own last post. But I'm off of the knee bolster for now. Just trying to thread everything normally and it kept breaking the thread. However I did remove the bobbin holder and gave it a good cleaning, and it didn't break that time just trying to get the bobbin thread up.

But trying to see a test piece, the thread did break Immediately. The thread seemed hard to pull through it. Maybe it's a tension issue. I'll look more into it over the weekend. As far as thread and needle size, I dont know yet. Once I do more investigating, I'll post an update.

[brmax]

Ok were talking in post,  first the top thread, now bottom. 

lets stick with one thread at a time 

As the knee bolster or the hand lift lever is for raising the presser feet. You can notice the tensioner when closely viewed does release only top thread tension a bit, when applied. 

So in all material removals and or thread pulling applications, the top thread is through the take up lever make sure that is in the top most position no matter what. 

 

Good day

Floyd

[tardis86]

ok so from what i can tell, the machine works ok, im certain some tension settings need adjusted but its hard to figure out when the thing moves at 10000000 rpm,lol. im gonna save up for one of those motors. idk how anyone could use that machine at that speed.

[Wizcrafts]

40 minutes ago, tardis86 said:

ok so from what i can tell, the machine works ok, im certain some tension settings need adjusted but its hard to figure out when the thing moves at 10000000 rpm,lol. im gonna save up for one of those motors. idk how anyone could use that machine at that speed.

To this day, most upholsterers use clutch motors that are geared 1:1, or higher, with the machine pulley. They are used to sewing flat out at 2000 stitches per minute. In upholstery, time is money. Furthermore, until the servo motors became commonplace in the last few years, everybody had a clutch motor on their industrial sewing machines. Most of these sewers have learned how to feather the clutches. I still have clutch motors on a couple of machines and have no problem feathering them to one stitch per second. But then, I used to drive clutch cars.

[Bugstruck]

3 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

To this day, most upholsterers use clutch motors that are geared 1:1, or higher, with the machine pulley. They are used to sewing flat out at 2000 stitches per minute. In upholstery, time is money. Furthermore, until the servo motors became commonplace in the last few years, everybody had a clutch motor on their industrial sewing machines. Most of these sewers have learned how to feather the clutches. I still have clutch motors on a couple of machines and have no problem feathering them to one stitch per second. But then, I used to drive clutch cars.

Agreed with one caveat. Not all clutch motors feather well. One on my Adler just wouldn't, tried several things to fix that. The clutch on my 78-3 though is a dream to operate. A servo has nothing on it.

[dikman]

I learned to drive a clutch car, and drove clutch trucks and clutch motorbikes - but I still couldn't handle a sewing machine clutch motor!!!

[tardis86]

Yeah this pedal doesn't feather at all. It's either 0 or 11.    No in between

[brmax]

If you have access and some time, you can make a modification to help address this speed and starting.

The motor has below it the lever for speed and connecting to treadle linkage. This can be lengthened. Also another is installing small motor pulleys we always see others doing here.

Anyway this lever on the motor has different holes sometimes and typically to hook a link to treadle. As well the treadle has its connector, this can be moved along and to other side of treadle if needed.

So using the lever thinking! Making this lever longer its possible to have better control in a gradual sense. 

Some around here have quite nicely fashioned longer extension on that lever from lite steel or aluminum angle stock. 

This may be worth a try until such time another power option is in the plan. 

 

Good day

Floyd

[Wizcrafts]

Clutch motors have a large bolt on the front that can be adjusted for free play before the clutch engages. There is a spring and thumbscrew on the right side of the lever that sticks out to control the motion of the clutch. Tighten up the thumbscrew on the spring to get a little more control over the foot action and keep the lever as high as possible until you press down. If the clutch is grabby, smear a little grease on it (partial disassembly may be req'd) or sand it smoother. A well adjusted clutch motor can be feathered accurately by a steady foot. Sewers have done this for a hundred years. My Dad feathered the clutch on his Singer 31-15 for 60 years.