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Posted (edited)

I think I did a tutorial like this a couple of years ago, but I've learned a lot since then. There are no correct way to paint edges, but there are some DON'TS.

 

What you shouldn't do

1. Burnish edges with Tokonole or similar agents before painting. You can dry burnish before paint but you have to sand before applying paint.

2. Make too large bevels on really tight folds (Your paint will stretch until it cracks)

3. Paint a new layer on a surface that's not flat (Except the first layer)

 

TOOLS/MATERIALS

1. Edge paint: This is Fenice, good alternatives are Uniters, Giardini, Stahl, Vernis 600, Beraud CT. Especially Uniters seems very popular, but I stay with Fenice since I'm used to this paint, and I get good results.

2. Edge beveler: This is a Kyoshin Elle size 0. 

3. Creaser: This is a Fileteuse from Regad, and a FN2 iron for creasing, and S05H for heating/smoothing edges, and melting paraffin. A Fileteuse is a big investment and manual alternatives (Heat over alcohol lamp) like Wuta works really good for both creasing and smoothing edges. If you don't have anything of this, you can skip this step and use friction with a heavy cloth after the first layer of paint.

4. Paraffin wax: You can use either paraffin or beeswax.

5. Sandpaper 400: This is wet and dry from Mirka. (Glued to a piece of rubber mat)

6. Sandpaper 800: This is wet and dry from Mirka. (You can go to a higher grit if you want)

7. Burnishing cloth: (Clean)

8. Burnishing cloth: (Paraffin/Beeswax)

9. Awl: For applying edge paint. Some use edge rollers or brushes, but this is my preferred method.

(10. Crepe Rubber optional:) For cleaning the edge transition if needed.

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STEPS FOR PAINTING EDGES

1. Cut edges flush and or sand them.

2. Bevel the edges (optional)

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3. Paint first layer. Paint a relatively thin layer of paint.

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4. Crease the edge on both sides. If you have a large contrast between leather color and edge paint, it's important you didn't use to much paint in the last step.

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5. Smooth edges This promotes adhesion of paint and also removes the line between layers of leather. I use a high temperature here (7 on Regad) If you use the iron Wax spatula from Regad use a lower temperature because your tool could break.

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6. Dry burnish Lay you leather flat on your desk and burnish edges with a clean cloth (Not used with wax) Do this with both Chrome/combination tanned and vegetable tanned.

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7. Sand the edge Use 400 grit. Don't stop sanding until your edge is good, if you sand through a lot (especially in folds) I would recommend heating the next layer of paint also.

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8. Paint edge A thicker layer this time.

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9. Proceed with painting and sanding edges until you are happy with your edge. There is no need to heat/smooth with Fileteuse/heated creaser apart from after the first layer of paint. When your edge is perfect, sand it with 800 grit (or go higher if you want) 

10. Rub paraffin on your edge and melt it with Fileteuse or heated creaser. (I use temp 3 on my Regad, you don't want to melt your edge paint here)

11. Burnish your edge with a have cloth.

12. Edge is finished, now you can have a beer or a coffee and show your edge in this thread. (Sorry for the photo, I'm no photographer and struggle to get a nice photo of the edge. (Edit. Sorry Uk friends. Of course Tea is okay too :))

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Edited by Danne
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Posted

Thanks for sharing Danne, :thumbsup:

  • 2 weeks later...
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Posted

Your results are impeccable, but why crease after painting?

I usually crease first, apply first layer, burn it down, sand, apply more layers, sand, etc ..

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Posted
2 hours ago, tofu said:

Your results are impeccable, but why crease after painting?

I usually crease first, apply first layer, burn it down, sand, apply more layers, sand, etc ..

It depends on the choice of creaser and leather. But with the FN-creaser I get a nicer transition between the edge and top layer if I creaser after the first layer of paint. Give it a try and share what you think.

 

Posted

Thanks for this. Have you had success with this method on oil tanned or pull up leathers?

I'm not paying 80 bucks for a belt!!! It's a strip of leather. How hard could it be? 4 years and 3 grand later.... I have a belt I can finally live with.

Stitching is like gravy, it's only great if you make it every day.

From Texas but in Bossier City, Louisiana.

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Posted
16 minutes ago, bikermutt07 said:

Thanks for this. Have you had success with this method on oil tanned or pull up leathers?

I never tried edge paint on oily/waxy leathers. Maybe you need to use adhesion promoter? 

Posted
50 minutes ago, Danne said:

I never tried edge paint on oily/waxy leathers. Maybe you need to use adhesion promoter? 

I haven't tried edge paint at all. But, I am using a lot of pull up leathers lately from Acadia. I was just curious.

I'm not paying 80 bucks for a belt!!! It's a strip of leather. How hard could it be? 4 years and 3 grand later.... I have a belt I can finally live with.

Stitching is like gravy, it's only great if you make it every day.

From Texas but in Bossier City, Louisiana.

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Posted
1 hour ago, bikermutt07 said:

Have you had success with this method on oil tanned or pull up leathers?

Hi bikermutt, I have used the edge paint on a couple of projects on oiled calf and saw no problems with it. The paint was Giardini.

  • 1 year later...
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Posted
On 3/21/2019 at 4:23 AM, bikermutt07 said:

I haven't tried edge paint at all. But, I am using a lot of pull up leathers lately from Acadia. I was just curious.

@bikermutt07 I've heard seen folks using denatured alcohol or similar to wipe the edge down prior to using a binder. Then the actual edge paint is added. 

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