Time capsule 206RB

[ljk]

I consider this one of the best general purpose machines for

upholstery and leatherwork. My first a new one in 1976 for $800 and

still running in my old shop.  My sister in law bought a new one the same year and didn't oil

for 25yrs. My wife didn't want me to oil, because one drop would ruin a deerskin garment she

was sewing. I've had  all three over the years Japan, Taiwan,and China.  The Japanese machine

had the best finish both on paint and metal parts but they all work good. My 144 Singer and Nakajima 280L 

will sew thicker thread and thicker material but it is still my go to machine.  With the 206rb  I maxed out

on my MC chaps at the belt with 7 layers @4oz and one at 6 or 7oz.  That's when I bought a 144 singer

we called it T Rex. to do more thickness.The 206 would sew thicker by raising the foot but

made it hard to sew lining. Every used 206 I've bought had issues all could be repaired easily

Remember if it's used there is a reason.

[ljk]

I missed your post on the hook.  The hook is on a keyed shaft with out any timing

changes.  Just release the screws on the hook slightly and realingn with needle bar.

You may want to put in a needle.  Also reset clutch if it  is engaged

[katit]

I will do some cleaning and lube first, then I’m going to go through all adjustments per book/video. Won’t even try to make a quick fix.

[katit]

1. Cleaned with compressed air. There was only dust, no crud..

2. Replaced lube in gearboxes with synthetic grease on top and bottom.

3. Oiled everything throughout, soaked it literally. I have pan, so it's no big deal. All wicks were dry.

Took needle plate off, started to see what is hitting. Hook was hitting needle. Ok, took out needle and it was wrong needle! Seller said needle were broken, so maybe it was an attempt to "fix" broken needle. I can tell because tiny bolt which holds thread guard on needle bar was missing..

Anyway, after inserting new titanium needle all started to look normal, at least to my eye. I did not go through any adjustments, it just looked like hook arriving to needle just right. So I threaded it and it just works!!!

Question. Bobbins I just received for 206RB (with holes) look pretty much identical as my PFAFF 1245 bobbins. Are they the same by chance? 

And Now I really have hard time deciding if PFAFF is better. To me they both very smooth but this Consew is like brand new.. And I kind of like side load bobbin, it is first time I work with it and it was really easy to load bobbin. Should I still hold onto 2 threads when starting? I've seen some videos when guys use 206rb without paying any attention where thread is...

 

 

[luxuryluke]

Dang, what an incredible find.

[Colt W Knight]

M class bobbins, I think they are pretty common among machines. 

[katit]

43 minutes ago, Colt W Knight said:

M class bobbins, I think they are pretty common among machines. 

Browsing various online stores, eBay, etc. I didn't find any cross-references. I think they put 3/8 thickness for 206RB and 11mm for PFAFF (which is slightly bigger). Just by holding them they look almost identical. Also, 206RB bobbins always have holes (or it's very common). PFAFF bobbins almost always solid.