katit

Couple consew 206RB questions

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Been awhile, I'm back to working on my project. I had PFAFF 1245 and got this like new 206RB. Decided that I like it so much that I will let CL to decide. I put them both for sale and PFAFF was sold. So now this Consew is my main machine.

Questions I have:

1. What is this lift mechanism you see on picture? How do I make it work? Looks like I miss some kind of table attached accessory? I can live without, but what does it look like, maybe I should get it.

2. I want to get edge guide. Do those 2 holes next to thread guide with felt work for mounting those? I'm thinking about flip down kind. Any suggestions for what to get?

3. Needle positioner. I don't have appropriate OD on pulley/shaft to mount positioner. And I don't have anything on a body to screw L-shaped keeper into. Anybody got picture with needle positioner mounted on 206RB?

 

Thank you!

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1. That is for a knee lift. It mounts to the table. I'm not sure which picture you meant, but I assumed the one of the underside. They are VERY helpful and easy to get. I suggest it.

2. The holes for mounting the flip down kind are on the back usually. If not, brackets can be made or you can drill and tap.

 

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Yep, knee lifter, it's also missing the linkage from the black stud up to the outside lever on the back that does the lifting. The manual might show it?

I seem to recall someone using those two front holes for an edge guide, I'm not sure if they bought or made a suitable bracket. Most usually drill and tap the back for the fitting.

Looks like you need to make an extended collar to replace (or fit over) the one on the handwheel, then the NP will attach to that. As for the bracket, either drill and tap a suitable hole in the side of the casing or make an extended bar to support it from the table (but you'll have to disconnect it if you tilt the head back).

 

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8 hours ago, dikman said:

Yep, knee lifter, it's also missing the linkage from the black stud up to the outside lever on the back that does the lifting. The manual might show it?

I seem to recall someone using those two front holes for an edge guide, I'm not sure if they bought or made a suitable bracket. Most usually drill and tap the back for the fitting.

Looks like you need to make an extended collar to replace (or fit over) the one on the handwheel, then the NP will attach to that. As for the bracket, either drill and tap a suitable hole in the side of the casing or make an extended bar to support it from the table (but you'll have to disconnect it if you tilt the head back).

 

See pics,

#1 - I don't think anything missing. Linkage is there. I just need something that pushed from a bottom looks like.

#2 - See back of machine, no additional holes. Can you remember what bracket? Really don't want to drill it if possible.

 

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There you go.. :)
This thread edge guide for the front holes on various machines, should fit your machine..
and another one that might work ,if you have holes on the back in the same place as the Juki Lu 563..
..
https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/85343-suspended-edge-guide-for-juki-lu-563/

Edited by mikesc

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30 minutes ago, mikesc said:

There you go.. :)

Ok, I see. Holes on a back already have bolts in them, can't use. Front 2 holes might work, will have to think about it.

 

 

As for knee lift looks like I need something like this. However, I'm not sure how this going to work since I got u-shaped metal pan covering bottom...

 

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On most machines, the bracket system that you just posted a picture of, sits below ( outside of the pan, closer to the floor ) the pan, which usually has a hole in it ( mine has a plastic pan with a cut out right there ) for the activator rod to poke through and work the part on the machine base that lifts the presser foot ) ..The pan ( if it is the same system, as on the Singer 211 ) is just to catch the occasional oil drips, it isn't an oil bath with a litre or so of oil in it..

You say the two holes on the back have bolts in ? they look empty on the pic that you posted of the back of the machine..

Edited by mikesc

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13 minutes ago, mikesc said:

Most machine the bracket system that you just posted sits below ( outside of the pan, closer to the floor, the pan usually has a hole in it ( mine has a plastic pan with a cut out right there ) for the activator rod to poke through and work the part on the machine base that lifts the presser foot ) ..The pan ( if it is the same system, as on the Singer 211 ) is just to catch the occasional oil drips, it isn't an oil bath with a litre or so of oil in it..

My pan is just a piece of aluminum sheet that I made myself, yes it's just to catch oil drips. It's probably 4 inch deep, this knee lift probably won't fit "under". May have to make holes on front/back and put shaft inside.

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28 minutes ago, mikesc said:

You say the two holes on the back have bolts in ? they look empty on the pic that you posted of the back of the machine..

Picture doesn't show it. It's headless bolts, black not clear in picture. Front one almost flush, rear one about 1/16-1/32 deep.

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Ah..do you know what they do ? Might they be "blanking bolts" ( I don't know ) ..Someone who has the same model, or one of the dealers might know.

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If there are already bolts in the back, consider putting longer ones in and using bolts on the outside.

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When I fitted a needle positioner to my machine I removed the bolt in the center of the pully and used it to secure a nylon spacer that was supplied with the positoner, the alloy ring of the positioner then grips the spacer.To fit the L shaped bracket I had to drill and tap the machine casing in a suitable place, it wasn't a difficult thing to do, just a bit worrying at first.

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Without a photo of the back I couldn't tell if the linkage was there. Now it's obvious that the "pin" I saw is actually the linkage fitted in the pivot. That's good.

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Does anybody have a picture on how this knee lift (I got it) should press on this mechanism I got?

I found videos and pictures but none show this exact mechanism like I got. I'm not even sure it's a correct combo as this place on machine is like 1/8 of inch thick, how should lifter on a picture push on it?

Also what is the role of "stopper" ? It's another thingy on a shaft

 

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Turn your knee lift assembly ( the one in the bottom photo b) over..so that the flanges with the mounting holes are facing the upwards..

then you'll see..

In the top photo...the part which is "beak shaped" ( with the little return spring on it ) on the bottom of your sewing machine... rests on, and rides along the angle bar that is locked to the large bar between the two flanged brackets on your knee lift assembly ( bottom photo )..as you push on the knee lift the whole bar ( between the two flanges ) pivots and the angles bar pushes against the "beak"..the more you push against the knee lift the further along the beak is pushed towards the end of that small bar, that lifts the foot..when the foot is down the beak is nearer to the forged part that the angles bar passes through..The locking bolt that secures that angled bar, is so that you can adjust the point at which the beak contacts that bar..that way you can adjust the amount of lift..

Hope that makes sense.

I have drip trays on all of my machines '( except the patcher ) so I'd have to remove one to photograph how it fits..perhaps someone else has a knee lifter with no drip tray..once you have seen how it fits..it will be a "doh" moment..We all have them :)

Edited by mikesc

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7 minutes ago, mikesc said:

In the top photo...the part which is "beak shaped" ( with the little return spring on it ) on the bottom of your sewing machine... rests on, and rides along the angle bar that is locked to the large bar between the two flanged brackets on your knee lift assembly ( bottom photo )..as you push on the knee lift the whole bar ( between the two flanges ) pivots and the angles bar pushes against the "beak"..the more you push against the knee lift the further along the beak is pushed towards the end of that small bar, that lifts the foot..when the foot is down the beak is nearer to the forged part that the angles bar passes through..The locking bolt that secures that angled bar, is so that you can adjust the point at which the beak contacts that bar..that way you can adjust the amount of lift..
...
I have drip trays on all of my machines '( except the patcher ) so I'd have to remove one to photograph how it fits..perhaps someone else has a knee lifter with no drip tray..once you have seen how it fits..it will be a "doh" moment..We all have them :)

Mike,

I kind of understand that, I just wasn't sure how precise "beak" and "bar" have to be positioned because of sizes and fact that machine can move a little from back to front. Main thing - you confirmed that this combo should work.

I don't have to see how bar contacts "beak", but if you can post picture of lifter when machine tilted back - that would help a lot, I just want to understand how it's oriented once installed. No need to remove tray for that, no need to show contact of beak. Just picture of opening from a top.

BTW, my tray is 3in deep (tray itself), so holes will have to be made in order to install it. I will have to remove tray, install lifter, then measure where holes will be. I was making new tray for another machine and made it 2in deep to clear lifter if needed.

 

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Here is a video that show where the knee lift mounts. The link should start at 19:14 where the lift is installed

.

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Ok, video helped. Now I know that shaft need to be on a same line with 2 motor bolts. Do I understand correctly that it should touch "beak" like on a picture? What position should I target for?

 

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That looks good. Set the height of the bent post so it moves the lifter crank far enough to fully lift the feet and open the top tension disks. Lock in the position of the bent rod, then set the motion stop block on the knee lever so you can't push too far.

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Wiz, all 3 pics different. I'm trying to understand in what position shaft have to be in relation to beak.

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8 minutes ago, katit said:

Wiz, all 3 pics different. I'm trying to understand in what position shaft have to be in relation to beak.

The way this knee lifter works is the bent rod pushes on the pivoting crank. If the rod is set too high it can actually push against the body, lifting the head. If it is set too low, it can slide past the "beak" and flop around uselessly. The trick is to position the rod high enough so that it gives the full required amount of lift to the feet, yet does not also push the body itself up. You should have a discoverable range of height that accomplishes these two things.

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Get the lift mounted to the table first. It is a bit of trial and error until you find the sweet spot. If the bent rod is too short, it slips past the lifter. Too long and it locks up.

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17 minutes ago, JJN said:

Get the lift mounted to the table first. It is a bit of trial and error until you find the sweet spot. If the bent rod is too short, it slips past the lifter. Too long and it locks up.

Thats a question. WHERE to mount lift on a table? Is dimension (shaft aligns with motor bolts) accurate? I prefer not to drill table many times if possible..

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Yes, mine is in line with the motor mounting bolts. About 190mm from the right edge of the machine head.

I saw a drawing a while ago that had it at 182mm from the right edge.

Edited by JJN
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