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Got it thanks guys.

 

@RockyAussie what would the 2600 machine allow me to do besides bags? Shoes? Wallets? Maybe I should wait and get a $2-3k machine if it means I will have a wider range.

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Bags, belts/straps, shoes uppers,wallets purses up to 10mm (3/8") thick and just about anything you can see on my web site. (Not the linesman's pouch)  If I were starting all over again this would be my first machine. It can do anything that you can do on a flat bed and most things that you can on a post machine as well. Main limitations are the thread size at max #138 and the thickness it can sew. A larger cylinder gives you more difficulty getting into tight gusset areas and if you look at my wallets I sew all the way around which to me is quicker and neater.

WH.jpgWild Harry - Australian made leather goods
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Posted
6 minutes ago, RockyAussie said:

Bags, belts/straps, shoes uppers,wallets purses up to 10mm (3/8") thick and just about anything you can see on my web site. (Not the linesman's pouch)  If I were starting all over again this would be my first machine. It can do anything that you can do on a flat bed and most things that you can on a post machine as well. Main limitations are the thread size at max #138 and the thickness it can sew. A larger cylinder gives you more difficulty getting into tight gusset areas and if you look at my wallets I sew all the way around which to me is quicker and neater.

I see, that seems to cover most of the things I care about right now. Thanks.  

 

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On 5/21/2019 at 6:28 PM, RockyAussie said:

Bags, belts/straps, shoes uppers,wallets purses up to 10mm (3/8") thick and just about anything you can see on my web site. (Not the linesman's pouch)  If I were starting all over again this would be my first machine. It can do anything that you can do on a flat bed and most things that you can on a post machine as well. Main limitations are the thread size at max #138 and the thickness it can sew. A larger cylinder gives you more difficulty getting into tight gusset areas and if you look at my wallets I sew all the way around which to me is quicker and neater.

I am looking and the basic configuration is about 2k, I assume I would want the speed reducer too? All the upgrades seem to make it go for about 2.5k That seems to include a bit more but not sure if that's what you would recommend (the table adapter seems interesting to make it flat I believe)

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Also curuous how loud a Techsew 2600 gets. I have no experience with these industrial machines but I assumed they would be pretty quiet and not likely a problem for the neighbors?

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A typical upholstery-class walking foot machine can make quite a bit of mechanical noise when driven full-bore, but when used at the slower speeds many of us use for leatherwork it shouldn't cause a problem for the neighbours (less of an issue than having a tv on, or playing music).

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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29 minutes ago, dikman said:

A typical upholstery-class walking foot machine can make quite a bit of mechanical noise when driven full-bore, but when used at the slower speeds many of us use for leatherwork it shouldn't cause a problem for the neighbours (less of an issue than having a tv on, or playing music).

Great good to know. I dont need it to be whisper quiet but wanted to double check

Posted
23 hours ago, JC2019 said:

I am looking and the basic configuration is about 2k, I assume I would want the speed reducer too? All the upgrades seem to make it go for about 2.5k That seems to include a bit more but not sure if that's what you would recommend (the table adapter seems interesting to make it flat I believe)

A speed reducer can be a bit of an advantage when you are starting off and can give you a fair bit more punching power but I still have plenty of clutch motors that without reducers and they will have to wear out probably before they get replaced with servo motors. I have one small juki flatbed that I changed to a servo recently and without a reducer and it seems fine and more controllable than with the old clutch. Note: the servo motors make NO noise when they are not turning and that can be a trap as if you hit the peddle and don't realise the machine is on it takes off and .......Hopefully you don't have a finger under the needle or something. They do save a fair bit on the power usage as well compared to a clutch. I think I saw a near new 355 on here for sale a day or so back for only $1900. Here is the link - 

 

WH.jpgWild Harry - Australian made leather goods
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Posted
On 5/19/2019 at 6:40 AM, JC2019 said:

Ah, that's interesting. I don't know much, but I do know Juki is a good brand?

JC2019, since this is going to your first and main machine, I would strongly advise you to decide on whether it is going to be a cylinder bed or flatbed machine for your stuff. Then decide on a firm price you can afford which will help in deciding whether it is going to be new or used. Finally since it is going to be an expensive investment take a road trip to at least one brick and mortar vendor that has more then one manufacturers machines in stock. Bring along some of what you what to sew and compare not only the results but how the machine sounds and looks. My requirement was the machine had to do a great stitch, run smooth as silk, be flawless and look great right out of the box along with a good detailed readable "English" manual for future reference.

Buying a new or used machine online can be a great experience from a dollar saving perspective for the experienced user or the ultimate nightmare or boat anchor. That is going to depend on the vendor and whether it is purchased from a site like Amazon. Amazon has a great return policy in comparison to some others should there be a problem.

Some new clone machines that I looked at when I was looking for a new machine I do admit their price was enticing, they did sew and that was about it for me. Their look / finish / feel for the price was what you would expect from an old Russian Lada car as well as some did the shake, rattle and roll. Some clones looked OK but sounded like a bucket of bolts banging around in a 45 gallon drum. Makes one pause to wonder about internal quality of parts and their longevity.  It is going to be hard to beat the quality of machines like Juki, Pfaff, Alder and some others. A quality machine will have a better resale value down the road then a similar class of clone. Expect to pay more for a quality machine either new or used. Buy Once, Cry Once.

kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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Posted
On 5/24/2019 at 5:13 PM, RockyAussie said:

A speed reducer can be a bit of an advantage when you are starting off and can give you a fair bit more punching power but I still have plenty of clutch motors that without reducers and they will have to wear out probably before they get replaced with servo motors. I have one small juki flatbed that I changed to a servo recently and without a reducer and it seems fine and more controllable than with the old clutch. Note: the servo motors make NO noise when they are not turning and that can be a trap as if you hit the peddle and don't realise the machine is on it takes off and .......Hopefully you don't have a finger under the needle or something. They do save a fair bit on the power usage as well compared to a clutch. I think I saw a near new 355 on here for sale a day or so back for only $1900. Here is the link - 

 

I am not sure I understand the difference between the Techsew 2600 and Phaff 335 (maybe the 0.55 inches vs 3/8) and their pros and cons so that probably means I need to research a lot more.

I am currently looking at the 2700, 2750 techsew too. I assume the 2600 is recommended for  a narrower cylinder 

 

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