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Paint match Consew Grey?

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I picked up a nice 226 but they resprayed the bed black. The machine is functionally perfect, so I'd like to make it look pretty. 

Anyone find a solid match for the hammered Consew grey? I saw another thread with a juki paint match, but I think juki has more brown in it. 

 

Thanks

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Some companies paints are available from dealers.  I might give Consew a buzz in NY to see if they carry anything.  The silver  grey hammertones were built by Seiko for Consew.  Try Hoffman Brothers in Chicago.  Primary Seiko dealer and distributor in the US.

glenn

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The some of the older Consews where black from the factory.Home Depot has a hammertone grey that'll work if you want it grey.

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Thanks guys. It looks like the grey is the original part because the black bed wasn't done well. If I had a closer match to the grey I can just blend at the cut off line, as the rest of the head is in pretty good shape. I'll try what shoepatcher suggested and contact the paint co

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16 hours ago, CowboyBob said:

The some of the older Consews where black from the factory.Home Depot has a hammertone grey that'll work if you want it grey.

Home Dept. has a hammer grey, a lot of the generic suppliers have gotten out of the paint business.

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On 5/20/2019 at 10:17 AM, Gregg From Keystone Sewing said:

Home Dept. has a hammer grey, a lot of the generic suppliers have gotten out of the paint business.

I was looking at the Rust-Oleum grey. Close enough but will need to respray the entire head. 

 

I'm also looking to buy the front cover (the plate you remove to adjust needle bar height), so if anyone has a lead on one, it would be appreciated. Looks like the previous owner cut one out of sheet metal and did a sloppy job. 

 

Thanks

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It should be the same as a front plate used on a Singer111W155.  Consew copied that machine when they designed the 226.

glenn

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On the 226 and 206 machines, I've been surprised how often Rustoleum Dark Bronze hammered spray paint is a dead ringer for the factory gray.  The best thing to do is get a couple different colors from at least two brands, and spray a piece of cardboard with each color.  Let it fully dry and hold it next to the machine to see which matches.  You shouldn't have to repaint the whole head, just remove the parts you can, and mask the rest.  Then blend the colors with no sharp lines anywhere. 

I've also noticed the underlying color affects the finished color.  So I usually spray it with gray primer first, then the hammered paint.  

Regarding the cover plate... they are widely available from sewing shops or Ebay.   

Good luck!

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43 minutes ago, Pintodeluxe said:

On the 226 and 206 machines, I've been surprised how often Rustoleum Dark Bronze hammered spray paint is a dead ringer for the factory gray.  The best thing to do is get a couple different colors from at least two brands, and spray a piece of cardboard with each color.  Let it fully dry and hold it next to the machine to see which matches.  You shouldn't have to repaint the whole head, just remove the parts you can, and mask the rest.  Then blend the colors with no sharp lines anywhere. 

I've also noticed the underlying color affects the finished color.  So I usually spray it with gray primer first, then the hammered paint.  

Regarding the cover plate... they are widely available from sewing shops or Ebay.   

Good luck!

Wow that's exactly the info I was looking for. Would not have considered "bronze" would match grey.  Thanks!

What exactly is the front cover called? I can't seem to locate it. 

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It is called a Face Plate.

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On 5/22/2019 at 11:23 AM, tofu said:

Wow that's exactly the info I was looking for. Would not have considered "bronze" would match grey.  Thanks!

What exactly is the front cover called? I can't seem to locate it. 

That is incredible how a name will be so misleading.  I am going to give it a try.  Will keep you posted.  Now I got to learn how to blend/feather the paint to the rest of the body.

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You may buy a couple of different colors ( e.g a silver & a darker grey) and mix them to get the right shade. You will need a spray gun to apply it.

The difficult part is to match the original factory hammered effect. Each paint ends up with different hammered effect depending on the maker, application method, paint dillution etc. For local touch-ups I've had better results by applying it with a paint brush or sponge in a dabbing fashion. Its still hard to get a 100% match though

In the attached photos example of repaint job on a 226R i am working on. You may notice the difference from the original in the close up of thread tension controller mounting hole.

machine head top.jpg

head close up.jpg

machine body.jpg

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Re-assembly will be easier if you plug the screw holes with something to prevent the paint from going into them.We've use Q-tips,cotton , even pieces of paper & there are a few area that need to be masked off too.We also have a thick piece of paper business card thickness we used for covering the slide plate area.This hammertone will come out nice but be sure to wash the machine off a couple of x with alcohol to remove oil,if not you'll end up with a fisheyes.Also when painting wait maybe 10 min between each coat just so it's drying but still tacky & respray(hold can away from machine & mist it on) it will bring out the hammertone & don't forget to shake the can alot the oil in the can settles quickly.After your done & if your happy with it it needs some heat to bake the paint,we usually like to paint in the summer & let them set outside for the day in the sun,in the winter we'd put a heat lamp on them & tinfoil over the top to hold the heat in.This will harden the paint & prevent scratches when you put it together.

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