kevinkay Report post Posted August 13, 2019 HI, I restored an old Singer walking foot machine. I just found a free IKEA desk/table on CL that will enable me to mount the motor underneath. Do I want the machine mounted to the right so material being worked on can sit on the table?? Whats a good working distance the machine should be from the front edge?? I have to cut a hole for the machine and also for the belt THANKS for any input! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yetibelle Report post Posted August 13, 2019 I don't think there is a set rule if your going to make your own table-top. You just have to make sure it all lines up from the bottom to the top, so the motor and belt are not in the way of the table legs, plus it is heavy and you don't want it to lopsided so it tips over. They are typically offset to the right like in your picture to give you a little more room on the side for the project to float around as your sewing, and still access to reach the hand wheel. Looks like a nice table top. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylonRigging Report post Posted August 13, 2019 (edited) As long as that table ( top is thick enough ? ) for an inlet. That is great working size top . Also you need check-look and mark on top-side where the underside metal table frame is located before commit cutting . also make sure your belt-cut-out and if running reduction wheel ? it has room on underside from hitting frame . IF it were me .. because of large size top .. I would keep it about where it is and make an set-in cut for where operator sits . So you get a little more L-side for materials to hang on the larger size patterns you stitching . ' Roughly ' . I marked with Line in Pic. for Cut Out where you Sit . Also where I marked ( D. L. ) . It EASY to hinge a Drop-Leaf that can swing-Up an lock for even more top when needed , and then just swing down and out way when not needed . - Edited August 13, 2019 by nylonRigging Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Louiesdad Report post Posted August 14, 2019 -You could also glue 1/2 inch plywood to bottom, but I would "think" hard about using it though because of the single -middle side legs- 4 corners would be much better. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JJN Report post Posted August 14, 2019 You might need to add some braces to the table legs to make the table more stable when in use. I am guessing the table top is 3/4" thick? Add a piece of 3/4" plywood to the bottom. Don't cut out the corners on the plywood so the machine can rest on it. Here is a link to a post on here with dimensions for the cutout. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/73515-table-top-template-for-singer-211-class/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylonRigging Report post Posted August 14, 2019 (edited) what ( JJN ) says . you needs to be ( 1.5" ) thick . easy to laminate and add to it . Just 'Glue and Screw' cordless driver or use Air-gun staple to be fast . I used commercial gun last time I did this and was great . Don't run screws or staple/nail in the Cut-Out spot where you got to cut . you need to do it on a flat patio outside or flat inside concrete floor . just get good Plywood, Dont get crappy plugged finish plywood . You can use the particle board, but Ply. is better for not getting a Bow on the top over the long run years latter . Just Cut Ply. same size as top . glue and walk along with your body weigh and Screw it all down . Then go back in half hour and wipe all the excess glue that will press out the edges with wet sponge . leave sit for few days to cure . . Edited August 14, 2019 by nylonRigging Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinkay Report post Posted August 14, 2019 YES! exactly the information I needed and THANKS for the cutout template!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
koreric75 Report post Posted August 15, 2019 If you're not planning on a speed reducer/motor setup you can skip the belt cutout and do a motor mounted topside behind. I agree on the suggested thickness, i made this table from melamine and at one layer it would sag with my little singer 66k so an industrial machine definitely needs the reinforcement. I used the same material and did two layers of melamine, The hole on the top was cut to fit the shape of the bed, the hole on the 2d layer was cut to allow openings for mechanisms and keep a lip and corners which have a spacer for the machine to sit on and flush with table. For the motor control, i unmounted from the bracket and mounted to the bottom of the table to line up with the pedal assy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinkay Report post Posted August 18, 2019 THANKS for the reply and photos! iI just cut the hole for the belt which took some support from the under layer. To be honest I had not thought of mounting the motor up top and had not see it, but my motor is old and ugly and vey "homemade" looking so its better hidden . Interesting that you mounted leaving more table in front? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites