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Amira

Gluing leather in a stack

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Hi,

I'm looking to glue several pieces of leather together in a stack (approximately 4-5 layers of 3 or 3.5 mm leather - I currently can't get thicker leather else I would have opted for 6+ mm leather and just used two pieces or something like that, but alas that's not an option). What kind of glue is generally best for this? I am looking for glue that will last despite the object being used, non-toxic and preferably with some flex or bend to it. It will be stitched as well, but given the... width of the item compared to the stitching, the stitching will most likely just become a decorative part rather than completely functional. Does PVA "work" (I mean, I know it works) for this kind of gluing or will the glue come apart in a few years? Had the item not supposed to be a gift I wouldn't have minded as I could easily have fixed it myself had the glue started to deteriorate. I would prefer to avoid flammable adhesives like contact cement. In case PVA wouldn't be suitable, where does leather cement land in this question? In case it is relevant information, the gift itself is supposed to be a paddle. I've previously just done some knife sheaths, AirPod cases and similar things and for that the limited gluing that was done PVA worked fine. 

I'd really appreciate any input I can get for on this. 

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25 minutes ago, Amira said:

I'd really appreciate any input I can get for on this. 

Not clear as to what will work best for you, but to help others understand, here is some information about PVA (from Wikipedia): "Poly(vinyl acetate) (PVAPVAcpoly(ethenyl ethanoate): best known as wood gluewhite gluecarpenter's glueschool glueElmer's glue in the US, or PVA glue)."

There are some environmentally friendly contact cements out there, including Weldwood Non-Flammable Contact Cement available at Home Depot, which might be worth trying.

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49 minutes ago, LatigoAmigo said:

Not clear as to what will work best for you, but to help others understand, here is some information about PVA (from Wikipedia): "Poly(vinyl acetate) (PVAPVAcpoly(ethenyl ethanoate): best known as wood gluewhite gluecarpenter's glueschool glueElmer's glue in the US, or PVA glue)."

There are some environmentally friendly contact cements out there, including Weldwood Non-Flammable Contact Cement available at Home Depot, which might be worth trying.

Thank you for the tip, I'll see if I can get a hold of that within EU, as I failed to mention that I'm EU based and not US based. :)

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If you are sure that the recipient of the gift does not have an allergic reaction to latex, you can try a water-based adhesive with synthetic latex - ECOSAR MW116 NG (manufacturer KENDA FARBEN, Italy). http://www.kendafarben.it/note-tecniche/NTinglese/Ecosar MW 116 NG-en.pdf

 

 

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Try Copydex

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49 minutes ago, LatigoAmigo said:

It helps when you put your location in your profile.:)

I know, I really should have mentioned it in my post.

I did manage to find Weldwood though and some wated based contact adhesives (which I didn't even know existed) from your suggestion so that opened up quite a few new searches and things to look for.

28 minutes ago, ABHandmade said:

If you are sure that the recipient of the gift does not have an allergic reaction to latex, you can try a water-based adhesive with synthetic latex - ECOSAR MW116 NG (manufacturer KENDA FARBEN, Italy). http://www.kendafarben.it/note-tecniche/NTinglese/Ecosar MW 116 NG-en.pdf

 

 

Thank you so much for that link. I'll ask and see if I can find that product, seem promising.

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12 minutes ago, fredk said:

Try Copydex

Thank you, I'll look into that. 

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https://districtleathersupply.com/products/aquilim-315-water-based-adhesive?variant=7182067630142

I just happened upon this adhesive myself. I'm going to grab a small canister to try. If anyone knows if it is good or not, please let us know. DLS said they tested it and that it works like a contact cement should but being waterbased makes me wonder how well it'll hold up under damp/wet conditions.

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Thanks for the info. I was needing more adhesive. I placed aorder to try it out.

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42 minutes ago, battlemunky said:

waterbased makes me wonder how well it'll hold up under damp/wet conditions

The waterbased contact cement I have used is not water soluble after it has set.  Cleanup with water must be immediate.  Heating will reactivate the cement if you have an area that didn't have good contact when you put it together.  (Or if you need to separate the items, heat will help like other contact cements.)  Petroleum based solvents help to clean up a dried mess, but is difficult to do a nice cleanup.

Tom

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Renia Aquilim 315. Made in Germany I believe. It sticks well, except for wet or greasy leather. Water based, no fumes.

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18 hours ago, Amira said:

Hi,

I'm looking to glue several pieces of leather together in a stack (approximately 4-5 layers of 3 or 3.5 mm leather - .................... I'd really appreciate any input I can get for on this. 

I have done this for any number of projects, . . . holsters, . . . cheek risers, . . . platforms, . . . etc.

I always use solvent based Weldwood contact cement.

The most important thing to remember and do here, . . . take a wire brush to all the pieces on the hair side, . . . scrub it real good so it is scuffed up enough to hold the contact cement and you will be all right.

You do want to be in a place with good ventilation, . . . I just open the door if I'm doing a serious bunch.

You can't see the end of the shaped piece in the picture, . . . but it has at least 5 layers in it, . . . contact cemented into shape, . . . then final formed on a big disc sander and a small belt sander.

May God bless,

Dwight

a cheek riser 3.JPG

a cheek riser 1.JPG

Edited by Dwight

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19 hours ago, Amira said:

Hi,

I'm looking to glue several pieces of leather together in a stack (approximately 4-5 layers of 3 or 3.5 mm leather - I currently can't get thicker leather else I would have opted for 6+ mm leather and just used two pieces or something like that, but alas that's not an option). What kind of glue is generally best for this? I am looking for glue that will last despite the object being used, non-toxic and preferably with some flex or bend to it. It will be stitched as well, but given the... width of the item compared to the stitching, the stitching will most likely just become a decorative part rather than completely functional. Does PVA "work" (I mean, I know it works) for this kind of gluing or will the glue come apart in a few years? Had the item not supposed to be a gift I wouldn't have minded as I could easily have fixed it myself had the glue started to deteriorate. I would prefer to avoid flammable adhesives like contact cement. In case PVA wouldn't be suitable, where does leather cement land in this question? In case it is relevant information, the gift itself is supposed to be a paddle. I've previously just done some knife sheaths, AirPod cases and similar things and for that the limited gluing that was done PVA worked fine. 

I'd really appreciate any input I can get for on this. 

Have a look at Gorilla Glue. Apparently has tiny bits if rubber in it so might be flexible. I made a mistake that I didn't realise until next day and I had to cut through the leather. the glue wasn't going anywhere. Really strong. has to be slightly damp material to work.

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1 hour ago, Dwight said:

I have done this for any number of projects, . . . holsters, . . . cheek risers, . . . platforms, . . . etc.

I always use solvent based Weldwood contact cement.

The most important thing to remember and do here, . . . take a wire brush to all the pieces on the hair side, . . . scrub it real good so it is scuffed up enough to hold the contact cement and you will be all right.

You do want to be in a place with good ventilation, . . . I just open the door if I'm doing a serious bunch.

You can't see the end of the shaped piece in the picture, . . . but it has at least 5 layers in it, . . . contact cemented into shape, . . . then final formed on a big disc sander and a small belt sander.

May God bless,

Dwight

a cheek riser 3.JPG

a cheek riser 1.JPG

Dwight, have you made cheek risers before that have gone on the outside of the stock wrap and been stitched as well?

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On 9/9/2019 at 3:45 PM, nickhaprov said:

Dwight, have you made cheek risers before that have gone on the outside of the stock wrap and been stitched as well?

Thank you for the suggestion (and sorry for the late acknowledgement - it's been a busy month), unfortunately ventilation is one of the reasons I don't want to use solvent based contact cement. For myself I could use a respirator of some kind and keep it on for hours if needed but I share my apartment with a cat as well - so opening the windows large enough for a good breeze through isn't an option either. 

 

To anyone wondering, I still haven't received all the adhesives yet, but so far regular PVA adhesive seems to create a strong enough bond (I've only tried with squares of about 2x5cm and 4 layers of 3,5mm veg tanned leather), as does Kyoshin Elle's 100 waterbased adhesive as well. It is possible to tear off if you glue two pieces together in a way that you can pull on both ends in opposite directions (well I suppose it was actually the leather fibres that tore not the bond) with the PVA adhesive, haven't tried with KE's. But that won't be possible with my project so I suppose in a way the PVA adhesive seems to be sufficient.

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