Newbie with a Singer 111w155

[vonL]

Hi folks!

Last week I bought my first sewing machine, a Singer 111W155 with table and original clutch motor, I paid 35 usd. It's been sitting for quite some time and is in need of a good cleaning, lubricating and adjusting. The timing belt was broken so I have not been able to test it, but it turns over by hand. Timing belt should be here in a week or two, eager to test it.

I think there is an issue with the foot lift mechanism - it binds when i use the knee lift, I have to gently push down on the linkages on the back of the head. Max lift is around 4-6mm it seems. I'm being gentle with it as I am afraid of breaking something. 

I have not been able to locate exactly where it binds, but it seems to be the parts of the mechanism on the inside of the head. I will post pictures with arrows this evening. 

I dont know of any place who can do a service on this machine om Norway, so i guess I'll have to manage myself and I am up for the task.

Stefan 

Edited September 11, 2019 by vonL
Corrected some errors

[Wizcrafts]

Here is a manual for the 111w155

 

111W152_W153_W154_W155.pdf

[vonL]

Thank You Wizcrafts, will dive into the manual later today:-)

[vonL]

I watched Uwe's video on changing the thread tension release guide, and found out that it was bent on my machine (where the lift arm meets the thread tension release - does this make sende?). Bent it back just to test, with the result of even less presser foot lift. I then found out that since every moving part is dirty and gummed up, things weren't moving as it's supposed to. After cleaning with wd40 and some gentle prying I now have what seems like correct lift, but the inner foot now binds on the feed dog. I'm going to adjust as per some other thread on this forum as soon as my timing belt arrives, and will also get a new thread tension release guide. 

[vonL]

My machine now has a new timing belt, and I've adjusted the feet. I need a new thread tension release guide, mine is broken, but now I know how to change it, and have all involved parts cleaned, it will be an easy fix.

The small pin in the thread tension plate is missing - what length is this pin? I figure I could fabricate one easily enough as long as I know the dimensions 

[dikman]

If you're referring to the tension release pin that slides inside the housing to push the discs apart, I've had to make a couple in the past and just found a suitable sized nail or piece of rod and cut it by trial and error until it worked.

[vonL]

Yes, not the big one which slides inside the machine casting, but inside the tensionplate. I'll get some nails in a suitable size and give it a go:-)

[Samalan]

Thats a great machine it was the first sewing machine i used when i first started cabinet making we made dunkin donut stores the stool heads were covered with an orange naugahide that required one stitched seam i still have that machine 111-155 its in great shape and runs well i have 11 machines but still use the 155 once in a while have fun with it .

[shoepatcher]

A cut off needle works better than a nail for the small tension release pin!

glenn

Edited September 25, 2019 by shoepatcher

[Bert51]

I have found a small drill bit that has been abuse once to often works well.

Bert.

[CowboyBob]

You can start with a pin 7/16" or 11mm long,it's might be alittle longer than what you need BUT you can always grind it off or bend the release bracket on the backside of the tension.

[vonL]

Hi folks ! Thanks for the advice! Will try some of the tricks mentioned. Working hard right now to get my workplace Nice and tidy with some new paint and shelves. Really looking forward to get a Nice place and a servomotor, and get going. I've seen some nice deals on the enduropro motors. 220v. Are they any good?

[vonL]

I've been reading alot on the web about old clutch motors and how incontrollable they seem to be. Also, the look of the motor on my table didnot add much to my confidence, being an ancient 110v 3phase converted to 220v 2 phase, full of dust and filth. 

I was sure buying a new servo motor was a must. I havent even tried to start the old clutch motor. To be honest, I was afraid it would either give me a huge ZAP!, blow a fuse or catch fire, while sounding like a jetplane indoors.

That was until today. I figured I might aswell jump feet first, ignoring the thoughts of a possible hazardous outcome.

Boy was i wrong! I flick'ed the switch (what a Nice switch btw, an originial singer all-metal switch with a really pronounced 'click') and the motor started right up, no problems! It has the typical clutch motor sound (I actually like the sound - for now). And it is really not that incontrollable, I'm sure it will be even easier to controll if I change the pulleys.

Next step is aquiring some thread and let it rip:-) I have some schmetz 21 dp leather needles (came with the machine), am going for size 92 thread to try out. 

I need to clean the stitch length mechanism, as it won't change length. When I engage the left button, I can hear a slight "twang" inside the machine, but no movement in the length selection mechanism

[vonL]

Oh - and the "chug-a-chug-a" of the walking foot is just NICE! :-)

[480volt]

This is totally academic since the motor runs, but could you post a picture of the motor rating plate? I suspect it’s a single-phase, dual voltage motor. You can’t change a motor from 3-phase to single-phase, and actual 2-phase power is extremely rare and requires purpose built motors to use it. Also, is it grounded (earthed)?

 

[vonL]

Hi ! It's been a while since I checked in, but 480volt - Yes, You are right - it is of course not dual phase, but 3 phase, with a huge white something into which the wires go, and this something lets the motor run on 220v single-phase (presumably?). Anyways, It is an old lump, singer 1/3hp 1425 rpm. Will have to do for a while until I can afford a servo-motor.

I am in need of some advice, please let me know if I'm posting in the wrong forum.

I will be using my 111w155 for both leather and fabric, ranging from light upholstery leather up to double layers of 4-6 oz chrome and/or veg tanned leather (Purses, totebags, motorcycleseats, etc), and all sorts of items in canvas and denim and other heavy fabric.

I've read that the 111w155 will work with thread in the range of 69-138. I am having a hard time figuring out what sort of needles i should buy.

If I was to buy 1 spool of all three thread thicknesses, and needles accordingly - which needles will I have to buy?

The more i read and surf the web, the more confusing it gets:-/

[vonL]

Btw I know which size of needle recommended, what I can't really find an answer to is needlesystem, tip/point and all that. Seems to be lots of different designations? (Let me know if my spelling is bad:-))

[shoepatcher]

System is the specs to that actual  needle.   in your case 135x17 for round point, 135 x 16 for leather point.   Size is either Singer number such as 23 or metric which for a size 23 would be160., 24/180, 22/160, etc.

 Leather tips  tri is triangle point, Dia. is diamond point, RT is a reverse twist,  LT is a left twist,, etc.   So  system first, type of needle second, size third.  Hope that helps.   Most sewing machines designed around a particular needle system.

glenn

[Wizcrafts]

20 hours ago, vonL said:

I've read that the 111w155 will work with thread in the range of 69-138. I am having a hard time figuring out what sort of needles i should buy.

The Singer 111w155 uses the very common System 135x16 (leather point) and 135x17 (round point) needles. Leather points come in various shapes with the most common being a left twist slicing point, a triangle point and a diamond shaped point. Needles are available in packs of 10 and are relatively cheap. You can buy a pack of each point in one "size" until you decide which you like best, then stock up on those in all sizes you'll need.

 

Here is a thread and needle chart to help match needles and thread sizes.

[vonL]

Aha! Great info - thanks guys:-) so I should be using 135x16 for leather (with it's various points) and 135x17 for fabric?

[Wizcrafts]

38 minutes ago, vonL said:

Aha! Great info - thanks guys:-) so I should be using 135x16 for leather (with it's various points) and 135x17 for fabric?

Yes. You want to make sure you have round points on hand in case you have to sew webbing straps. Leather slicing needles will break the strands. Ditto for sewing denim. Use round points on woven materials and leather points on animal hides. Naugahyde can be sewn with either type of needle.

[vonL]

Super! Thanks again, this was very helpful advice:-)

[vonL]

I've invested in a sailrite workhorse servo motor, huuge improvement, even more so than I expected.

But, I am having a slight problem when sewing, which has nothing to do with the motor, it occured when using the clutch motor also.

The problem is my machine sporadically produces inconsistent length stiches during sewing.

It can sew fine, consistent length stiches, and then suddenly produce shorter length stiches during the run. Any ideas as to what might cause this, and is there any thing I can do to solve this?

 

 

[Wizcrafts]

56 minutes ago, vonL said:

I've invested in a sailrite workhorse servo motor, huuge improvement, even more so than I expected.

But, I am having a slight problem when sewing, which has nothing to do with the motor, it occured when using the clutch motor also.

The problem is my machine sporadically produces inconsistent length stiches during sewing.

It can sew fine, consistent length stiches, and then suddenly produce shorter length stiches during the run. Any ideas as to what might cause this, and is there any thing I can do to solve this?

This happens when the top thread suddenly gets jammed, or double wrapped around itself, the bottom of the spool, or some guide or post. The extra tension drags the material back, shortening the stitches. The same thing can happen if the bobbin thread binds on the way out of the bobbin case.

[vonL]

Thanks Wizcrafts!

I'll try and keep a close eye on the thread while sewing, to see if I can recognize whats going on next time this occurs. 

It suddenly struk me that the last project I am working on got stuck on the thumbscrew on the plate covering the bobbin

 Might be a good idea to remove the thumbscrew when sewing larger pieces.

Before this Singer, the closest I got to sewing was my mom patching holes on the knees of my jeans. Learing how to sew is really satisfying - as well as learing a new skill (with which I can help others) I'd say there is a lot of mindfullness in it.