Edge Kote rubbing off....solution?

[HondoMan]

Greetings all,

this is getting on me last nerve and somewhere must be a solution.  Fiebings Edge Kote.  A large number of people avoid it and I fully understand why.  I have been at finding a solution to the rub off and cannot for the bloody life of me find one.

I have done all I can think to do and it continues to rub off - days and weeks later. 

I have tried two different techniques at the start aside from sanding and burnishing.  I've used both water and Gum Trag separately of course.  Applying a thin and thicker amounts of Edge Kote to an edge.  Using canvas to burnish and there is little rub off or bleed.  I mean very little.  I can see a very light amount of black or brown in the canvas.  The rub off comes when beeswax is applied.  Scientifically, it does make a wee bit of sence.  The edge kote lays atop the leather (aye, some seeps in) and it dries.  With the wax and burnishing, it heats it and mixes with the beeswax.  There is now a waxy, acrylic mix atop the leather.  I have applied the edge kote and have waited up to 48 hours before applying wax.  Still bleeds or rubs off.  Polishing with a soft cloth and it is filled with rub off that seems endless.

One wold think that Fiebings would know this and make alterations.  Near on everyone waxes the edges.  Using dye on the edge is not always an option.  I often make items that are not dyed, but want to have a brown or black edge.  Dye won't suit as it seeps in. 

Does anyone have a simple solution to the rub off issue.  I've read Bob Parks write up on edge work.  Not what I'm looking for.  I have large bottles of Edge Kote that I'm not tossing in the rubbish.  I'd prefer to find a solution to stop the rub off.

Cheers!

 

[paloma]

Hi,

I have never noticed any problem with this product on vegetable tanned leather,but,but if I were you, I'd try to varnish it once the edge kote is dry, just to see.

[HondoMan]

3 minutes ago, paloma said:

Hi,

I have never noticed any problem with this product on vegetable tanned leather,but,but if I were you, I'd try to varnish it once the edge kote is dry, just to see.

Varnish?  Can you clarify that please?

 

[paloma]

yes,

to neutralize the contamination of the edge kote which is a product in aqueous phase it is possible to apply an acrylic varnish on it. ( mat or glossy )

Edited October 15, 2019 by paloma

[Dwight]

Years ago, HondoMan, . . . I saw your problem.

I gave up on Edge Coat, . . . instead, I went in the "edge dying" direction.

Didn't take long, . . . decided on ending that relationship as well.

Now I just burnish a little harder, . . . using either a Dremel tool, . . . or an electric motor I've outfitted with a burnishing wheel.

It darkens the leather while it polishes it, . . . and I get a really good looking product, . . . without the hassle of doing the edges a separate color.

May God bless,

Dwight

[paloma]

3 minutes ago, Dwight said:

Years ago, HondoMan, . . . I saw your problem.

I gave up on Edge Coat, . . . instead, I went in the "edge dying" direction.

Didn't take long, . . . decided on ending that relationship as well.

Now I just burnish a little harder, . . . using either a Dremel tool, . . . or an electric motor I've outfitted with a burnishing wheel.

It darkens the leather while it polishes it, . . . and I get a really good looking product, . . . without the hassle of doing the edges a separate color. 

May God bless,

Dwight

it's also one of the solutions I use

[HondoMan]

1 hour ago, paloma said:

yes,

to neutralize the contamination of the edge kote which is a product in aqueous phase it is possible to apply an acrylic varnish on it. ( mat or glossy )

Paloma, seems one of us is confused.  This is what I am referring to and what I am using and what rubs off.

Maybe it's me, but it seems you wrote to neutralise the contaminants of the Edge Kote, apply Edge Kote on it.

1 hour ago, Dwight said:

Years ago, HondoMan, . . . I saw your problem.

I gave up on Edge Coat, . . . instead, I went in the "edge dying" direction.

Didn't take long, . . . decided on ending that relationship as well.

Now I just burnish a little harder, . . . using either a Dremel tool, . . . or an electric motor I've outfitted with a burnishing wheel.

It darkens the leather while it polishes it, . . . and I get a really good looking product, . . . without the hassle of doing the edges a separate color.

May God bless,

Dwight

Cheers Dwight.  Done that in the past.  Didn't really care for it.  Aye, if the leather is dyed from the tannery, it works fine.  But often I am dyeing the leather meself and to have a nice dark bag or belt with a lighter coloured edge just doesn't suit.

[paloma]

the varnish, can fix it. the varnish is also an acrylic ( water-base ) component.

Make a test or a sample on a piece of edge leather to see.

[terrymac]

Quit using the gumtrag and  burnishing before applying the edge coat. The edge coat needs to adhere to bare, clean leather. What you are doing would be like waxing a bare piece of wood and then expecting paint to adhere.  I personally don't use Edge Coat as there are other brands I like better. The principles still.apply.  If you are applying more than one coat, then you need to either heat treat or sand between coats

Hope this helps

Terry

[HondoMan]

48 minutes ago, terrymac said:

Quit using the gumtrag and  burnishing before applying the edge coat. The edge coat needs to adhere to bare, clean leather. What you are doing would be like waxing a bare piece of wood and then expecting paint to adhere.  I personally don't use Edge Coat as there are other brands I like better. The principles still.apply.  If you are applying more than one coat, then you need to either heat treat or sand between coats

Hope this helps

Terry

Terrymac, I used the GumTrag once to see if it made a difference.  I sand endlessly, it seems.  Allow me a wee run through here mate.

Leather freshly cut.  Sanded.  A lightly moist edge and burnished.  I'll do that until the edge is free from any fibres.  Then Edge Kote, burnish and sand.  I'll do that about three times, sometimes four.  I increase the grit amount on the sanding bother before and after Edge Kote (400, 600 then 800 - sometimes 1000).  I then run the edge over with a piece of canvas.  Very, very little bleed.  I let leather sit for a minimum of 24 hours.   I then add beeswax to the edge and burnish.  I then go over again with canvas and it bleeds like a stuck pig!

Edited October 15, 2019 by HondoMan