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Posted

 

37 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

Seems to work round here ;)  But I have the bobbin tension cranked down with a torque wrench.... I like TIGHT stitchin'.

We may be looking at it from the other side the machine, Bob.  I run mine what I think is counter clockwise, and it do pop out on occasion (irritating as ever!).  Only when I start out.  Once it starts to stitch, I don't have that issue.  And it doesn't do it all the time, or I'd have a big hammer in my hand by now ...

Jeff,

When you have the shuttle positioned so you can put the bobbin in from the top is the easiest way,then it should be spinning clockwise.

Bob Kovar
Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd.
3631 Marine Rd
Toledo,Ohio 43609
1-866-362-7397

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Posted
2 hours ago, CowboyBob said:

 

Jeff,

When you have the shuttle positioned so you can put the bobbin in from the top is the easiest way,then it should be spinning clockwise.

Mine has always gone the other way (counter clockwise no matter which way it's facing).  But today I'ma try it the other way, see what happens.  If ya hear a loud bang followed by silence... send help ;)

 

JLS  "Observation is 9/10 of the law."

IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.

5 leather patterns

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Posted

I have all kinds of thread in my shop. Some of it tends to coil hard as it leaves the spool. With those I wrap the thread through the top and bottom holes in the top post (CB4500) in a counter clockwise direction. This reverses the twist as the thread goes to the top tension disks. I always roll it twice around the bottom roller counter clockwise to get all the kinks out. I feed the thread in and out of the loop over the bottom roller. This also gives the check spring more range of motion and makes it less likely the thread will come off the roller and get stuck in the spring.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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Posted

Dikman, I just created a post with original JUKI 441 Instruction Manual and Parts List. These should help you for when you get your new machine.  I hope it is soooon! 

 

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Posted

Thanks mate. The place it's coming from is halfway to the middle of nowhere (Emerald, Queensland) and a looooong way from me! I'm expecting it by the end of next week. It appears there is no "right way" to wrap around that lower tension assembly as there are a couple of factors to take into account including, as Wiz pointed out, the type of thread. A matter of trying it to see which way works for me.

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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Posted

I rarely use anything under 20M in my Adler now that I have other machines, it was only when I was using light thread that I did not wrap it around the pulley 1 1/2 times anti-clock wise and like JLS said, the tension is " cranked down", but I don't use a tension wrench.

Each machine is different and each operator sets their machine up differently, i remember a post not long ago of some one using hammers to get their tensions right, how I what my stitching to look, maybe not how you like it, so your tensions will be different to mine, but you need to follow the correct threading to get consistent stitching.

Mate, I'm not game to any rifles in this house, the wife keeps threatening to use one if I bring any more machines home....

Bert.

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Posted

:lol: Hi, my name is Bert and I have a problem......

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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Posted

Sadly....................

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