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circular holes or holes cut out - is there a difference?


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Posted

Hi all.

In my quest to find a way to stitch in straight lines on my watch straps, I've been using a stitching chisel like the one below.  It cuts out a 1mm hole, but gets larger due to the taper for thicker leather.  

1333623462_ScreenShot2019-12-08at7_52_39PM.png.209f795d1fc8aff17377a3a575900e2f.png

What I'm finding is that even when I saddle stitch, I feel like the thread isn't as tight in the holes as I'd like it to be - even when I use 1.0mm Tiger thread.  I previously had a set of these stitching chisels. 

679155963_ScreenShot2019-12-08at7_52_55PM.png.68a7d346e6493cb857f3a555f9d5cbf5.png

I found that these made the holes a bit too small, so I sold them.  I also wanted a larger spacing between holes, but overall the holes were too small...  I didn't think of switching thread and needles..  So I'm back to thinking about getting another set of these.  So, my question is, if the diameter of the teeth on these is the same as the 1mm chisels that physically cut out the leather (first pic), will I be able get tighter stitching because the leather isn't cut out?  Hopefully that all made sense.  As an aside, I tried just just using my round awl, but due to the taper the holes were just as large as using the chisels in the first pic.

Thanks,
Neil

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Posted

After sewing the usual practice is to use a small mallet to tap down the stitching. If you use the second type there is leather to close up the hole as you tap it down. With the first type there is no leather left to close up the hole.

Have you tried stitching punches with flat angled teeth, as on these pliers type?

1970374842_Stitchingpliers01s.JPG.bab49bb2b2162893d48e5fcbbcf1730c.JPG

Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..

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Posted

Hey Fred.

I haven't tried those pliers but they look interesting!  I'll check them out.  I do need to invest a small mallet - flat mallet right?  So many tools to buy...  I like the idea of the 2nd type now, as it makes senses that the leather can help fill in any gaps when tamping the stitching down...  

I'll see what I can find out about those pliers.

Best,

Neil

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Posted

Depending on the strength required and or the cosmetic look, you can buy say tiger thread in 0.6, 0.8 as well as 1mm, so mayb e the 2nd punch with thinner thread would give a nicer finish

Mi omputer is ot ood at speeling , it's not me

  • Contributing Member
Posted
6 hours ago, NeilMott said:

. . .  I do need to invest a small mallet - flat mallet right?  So many tools to buy...

Small rubber head mallet, might be available in a $ store or similar. Mine was bought in a £ shop

6 hours ago, NeilMott said:

I haven't tried those pliers but they look interesting!  I'll check them out. . . 

I'll see what I can find out about those pliers.

Once upon a time, in a galaxy far away Tandy used to sell them. You might find them as NOS in a Tandy re-seller or  - I got mine off ebay direct from China. Available in 4 tooth and 2 tooth

example of 4 tooth on ebay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1X-Leather-Stitching-Hole-Punch-Plier-Clamp-Cutter-Hoggard-Diamond-Cut-Punc-2R4/303149521011?epid=18030599939&hash=item46951e9873:g:82UAAOSwBCdc1KRI

 

Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..

Posted (edited)

Neil, round holes are not going to work for you. Can you purchase flat, angled teeth for that black tool shown in your post?

nick

 

 

Edited by wizard of tragacanth

Nick

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Posted

Ditto what Wizard of Tragacanth said: round holes are not going to give you the small, tight stitches you want for watch straps. Diamond-shaped holes won't give you what you want, either. 
You need the flat, angled teeth of traditional stitching irons/chisels. 

 

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Posted

Hey all.

Can you clarify why I can't do straight stitches while saddle stitching with tight holes using the tools I posted?  Are you saying the holes are too big?   Here is a baseball strap I just finished using the first tool in the post that cuts out a 1mm hole.

252817169_22mmbaseballsmallpic.JPG.4b2da18f0d30444a9f0579efa324bb0f.JPG

I found this plier with straight teeth,

76857513_ScreenShot2019-12-09at9_02_58PM.png.4b3f12438d8e33d2bb313b961a1e288c.png

but a review said this about how big the holes are:  I bought item so that I could continue to do leather work while other members of my household were asleep. The punch works well if you want to use a 3/32 size lace or to saddle stitch your project. the only limitations on this tool are the limits of common sense: don't try to put it through a double layer of anything too heavy, don't expect it to stay sharp if you don't maintain the cutting edge(s). 

So I would be wary of putting it through 5mm of leather and the holes it makes are 3/32" or 2.4mm wide, if I'm reading that correctly...  I do have some tandy punches that are angled diamond shape but I prefer a straight stitch look.

I think I'm missing something really basic here....it is because the thread doesn't have anything of shape to "seat" into?  

Best,

Neil

  • Contributing Member
Posted

Those pliers are the same ones I posted above. There are just two types of these available now; one with small diamond teeth for stitching and a larger set with wider teeth for lacing. There is no choice on the stitching type per teeth size and spacing, there is on the lacing type, one for 3mm and one for 4mm wide lace

I've used mine for many years now. The latest jobs is through 3.6mm +2mm with the 3.6 skived  and the combo is about 3.2mm, about 8 oz (1 oz = 0.4mm). The pliers had no problem going thru that. I saddle stitch with 1mm flat profile thread which fills the holes. Just now using my digital calipers the tooth size is 1.17mm along one long side of the diamond, or about 1.2mm overall. All chisels need sharpening at some point in their use. I've not sharpened mine for a while now and I've just done 6 runs each of 84cm (33 inches) = about 504cm, over 5 m and nary a problem

Whatever you choose you need to match the thread to the hole. Ideally a thread 2/3 to 3/4 the size of the hole if saddle stitching, or about 3/4 if single stitching

Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..

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