Singer 31k48

[Tastech]

Thanks Kgg. I see you are into sewing machines as well and you have a 29k71

This one is for you .

from this heap of rust to this beauty .Its a 29K53

[Northmount]

4 hours ago, Tastech said:

I had trouble uploading the photos because they were to big so i had to reduce the last one so it would send . I had quite a few attempts . I have the photos on my phone which i had to email to myself and grab them off the computer to post here .  Is there an etiquette on how big or small my photos should be ?

Most users do not need to view high res photos as they are using phones or monitors that can't display at high res.  It is also a favour to users on limited bandwidth connections as it can take several minutes to hours to download high res photos.

Some helps and suggestions are located in this thread.  There are many more helps and file re-sizers on the web.

800 pixels or 1024 pixels are great for display here.  You can post many photos in a post if you re-size to these limits.

[CowboyBob]

@Tastech Great job there!!

[kgg]

2 hours ago, Tastech said:

This one is for you

Very nicely done. I do like the color adds a bit of class.

kgg

[hugh123]

I know this is an old thread- but I have an opportunity to purchase a singer 31k48. What does everyone here use them for? Is it a good enough machine to do lined leather belts so a layer of 8/9 oz and a layer of 3/4 oz? What’s the difference between the 31k48 and the 31-15? 
Thanks

Hugh

[Tastech]

@hugh123 I have both machines you mention .The 48 has a roller foot while the 15 has a flat foot .  The roller/foot shaft is also different in both machines as in the needle clamps . The fundamental difference is that the bobbins and bobbin carriage are different . I use my machines for stitching shoe uppers up to 3.5mm overall thickness . Not sure what that is in ounces

[hugh123]

@Tastech I would be running a layer of 3.5 mm and a layer of 1.5 mm so 5mm total. Do you think it could do that? 
Thanks for the reply

[Tastech]

@hugh123 I think 5mm would be about the limit using chrome tan. with the right needle and tension . The only thing i can see going wrong is if the needle cant punch through it may allow the needle shaft to slip from its timing setting . Open the side cover and make sure the needle shaft screw is tight before you start . Do a practice run using 3mm then 4 mm then 5mm which will give you a good indication of what to expect and to just get the feel of things . If you motor doesn't have enough torque to get through at a slower speed then a reduction wheel might be necessary. not for a lower speed but for higher torque. 

What sort of motor are you running ? Old school induction clutch motor or the new DC variable speed ?

[hugh123]

@Tastech not my machine as of yet just one available on fb marketplace. I’d be running veg tan rather than chrome tan not sure if that makes a difference. I assume it has the old clutch motor rather than a servo motor. How do you find wheel feed vs walking feed for this kind of work? I’m on the fence about getting a machine but if it will work for what I want then maybe I can get him to drop the price and pick it up to start with. 

[Tastech]

With industrial machines its a horses for courses sort of deal . The machines are very specific when it comes to intended use . Walking foot versus roller foot is all about intended use . I mainly used a post bed machine for sewing shoe uppers because i can do the concave / convex parts with easy access . I prefer a roller foot because i can do tight curves and see what going on when i am making brogues. I also use a cylinder arm walking foot for other bits but mainly making bags. I use a flat bed roller foot for stitching the padding to shoe tongues and attaching that to the vamp. I even hand sew some features  like apron and spit toes because i don't know of a machine that can do it  You can cross over with machines but generally i use a specific machine for a specific task and even leather thicknesses . 

Ask yourself what specific task do you want the machine to do ? there will be a good machine out there that is perfect for the job . Even consider a new Chinese machine. they are generally clones of existing tried and true machines and to my surprise are really good and relatively cheap . I love the old legacy machine but most are obsolete and very hard if not impossible to get parts for .My preference is a treadle powered machine but after half an hour i get cramps and my hips hurt so i use a servo motor on all my main machines.However I just love the precision of a treadle when doing a wingtip brogue 2 mm off the edge around a tight curve . One really good advantage of a new machine with a servo motor is the reverse feature . No more turning the job around and having the roller where you don't want it and missing the same stitch hole. No one will ever notice it but i know its there and a little piece of me dies each time it happens .