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ScottEnglish

Shaping crepe or rubber soles with hand tools

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Hi.

I intend, God willing, to learn to make footwear. I will only, at least initially, be using hand tools. Other than a knife and sandpaper what tools will be useful for shaping the soles? I'm thinking a rasp might be useful too.

Thank you to those who respond.

Scott English

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Nice! I'm attempting shoes myself. Simple chukah style. I have crepe sole and have just a knife to cut it in the past with no issues. Not sure if all crepe is created equal?

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Thanks for the reply kiwican and best wishes for the new year. I hope your satisfied with your shoes once you've made them.

Anybody else willing to share their experience of shaping crepe or rubber soles with just hand tools?

Scott

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Scott, I used a sharp knife.  It's helpful to pull the cutoff part away from the sole as you are cutting to help relieve the drag.  You can get a helping hand from someone else or clamp it in a vise after you get it started and pull away from the vise as you cut.  But the key here is using a sharp knife.  I've cut crepe and other soling material with just a knife.  A lip knife makes it a bit safer for the shoe if you are cutting after its assembled.  Google "R. Murphy Curved Lip Shoe Knife"

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Thanks for your contribution Aven, it's appreciated. I will try your technique. Yes, I can see the importance of a sharp knife. Before starting on my first pair of shoes it's my intention next week to learn to sharpen my knives.

I hope you have a good year.

Scott

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Scott, what kind of shoes are you planning on making?  Lasted, unlasted, welted, stitch down? 

Thank you.  I hope you and yours have a good year.

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Have you considered using a pull knife, I have seen it in use by shoe repairers

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You will need to be careful if you use a rasp. A fine rasp might work but you're more likely to chunk out the crepe if you use a course one. Any sort of electric sander with a medium to fine grit would work.

If you are doing it by hand the best tool to use is a curved lip shoe knife, often just referred to as simply "lip knife." It's what chrisash mentioned above. I see you are in the UK but here is a stateside site that carries them. https://sorrellnotionsandfindings.com/product/lip-knife/ You should be able to find one on your side of the pond though. The top of the blade has a bend in it so it doesn't harm the upper while trimming. If using a regular knife you run a greater risk in nicking the upper. 

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For crepe I first cut with a knife & then tidied it up with a dremell sander (may not count as a hand tool to some) works for me:)

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Before I became a saddle maker .  I was a shoe repairer.  Long time ago.   When we cut the soles we wet the knife.  This made it easy to cut.   Truth be told we wet it in our mouths,  Far to lazy to go to the sink to get water,

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I've just checked the thread I started and see there's several more posts. I'll respond to each one individually.

Aven: My first pair of shoes will be of moccasin construction. I won't be using lasts.

chrisash: Thanks for mentioning the lip knife. Some of the other respondents to this thread have also mentioned the suitability of this type of knife.

arashikage: I'm pleased you commented upon the rasp. I don't want to be buying tools needlessly.

HaloJones: Another knife user. Seems this is definitely the way to go then.

gmace99: Thanks for the water tip. That isn't something I would have thought of doing.

Thanks again to everyone.

Scott

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