ScottEnglish Report post Posted January 5, 2020 Hello again. Having met with an encouraging response to my first topic I thought I'd ask another question that I can't find an answer to. I'm going to buy some chrome tanned leather for making my first pair of shoes. However, I don't which hide part to purchase. Does it matter? Thanks. Scott Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ScottEnglish Report post Posted January 5, 2020 (edited) Oops. Looks like I have finally found the answer myself. One seller is recommending a side with a smooth finish as being suitable for footwear. Any advice will still be appreciated though. Bye for now. Scott Edited January 5, 2020 by ScottEnglish Language baffles me Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alexitbe Report post Posted January 5, 2020 The leather should be between 1-1.5mm thick for shoe uppers... Typically 1.2 mm is used.... There is the expression that the leather should be tight to the toe, which I believe means that the stretch on the leather should be across the shoe and not along the length of the shoe. So lay your vamp and quarters on the leather with this in mind.... However, I have seen old pictures of laying out the pieces on a hide and they haven't followed that rule.... So take that for what its worth.. Alex Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hardrada Report post Posted January 5, 2020 Chromexcel? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aven Report post Posted January 5, 2020 If you are making moccasins, you'll need something with a soft hand like bison and relatively thick, around 8oz. If you are making something more structured, contact Nstarleather and see what he has available that will work for you. Understand that the stuff he offers is overage he gets when he buys lots for his business. He offers the overage, extra to us at a more than reasonable rate than we can get retail. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/83215-haas-tanneries-large-scrap/ You can also check with Maverick Leather or Hide House. Hide House is in Nappa. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ScottEnglish Report post Posted March 23, 2020 Well, I decided not to proceed with making a pair of shoes of moccasin construction but to begin with a pair of moccasin slippers instead. For varied reasons I've been delayed in making a start and am only now ready to cut out the pattern in leather. I've encountered a problem though with the side of leather. I don't know which part is the belly! Not having a camera or phone I can't take a photo so I'll describe it as best I can. The side is approximately 5 feet square. Three of the edges are fairly straight. The other edge is wavy with two eye shaped holes. The edge that is straight and opposite the wavy edge has its corners mitred several inches in. Which side is the belly? By the way, I'm thinking of using some of the belly leather for insoles for the slippers. They'll be glued in so hopefully won't stretch. What do folk think of this idea? Is it good or bad? Thanks. Scott Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisash Report post Posted March 23, 2020 If you have a side of leather then you would normally have the leather cut straight along the back, so its safe to assume the opposite to the straight edge is the belly, normally it will have some stretch marks, Unfortunately without seeing the leather no one can say 100% Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LatigoAmigo Report post Posted March 23, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, ScottEnglish said: Which side is the belly? Most likely the side with the wavy edge. Edited March 23, 2020 by LatigoAmigo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ScottEnglish Report post Posted March 23, 2020 Thank you chrisash and LatigoAmigo for your replies. Your agreeing about which edge of the side is the belly edge gives me confidence to start cutting leather. I'll unroll the side shortly and check for stretch marks too for further confirmation. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ScottEnglish Report post Posted March 23, 2020 Any thoughts on using belly leather for insoles? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LatigoAmigo Report post Posted March 23, 2020 49 minutes ago, ScottEnglish said: Any thoughts on using belly leather for insoles? You would want the insole material to lay flat, and that might be hard for the belly leather to do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ferg Report post Posted March 23, 2020 You do realize with normal shoes you need to use leather for the uppers that is not thicker than 2mm. You are trying to make moccasins I understand. That allows you to use some inferior leather but I wouldn't use belly leather for anything on any shoe style. Ferg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ScottEnglish Report post Posted March 23, 2020 Thanks again LatigoAmigo for your input. To my novice eyes the quality of the leather on the side looks equal all over! So much to learn. There are no stretch marks near the belly edge as chrishash mentioned but he did say normally there would be rather than there definitely will be. Ferg, thanks for your comment as well. The leather side I bought apparently varies from 1.5mm - 2.0mm so the thickness, it's chrome tanned too, should be fine for making footwear. Scott Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LatigoAmigo Report post Posted March 23, 2020 1 hour ago, ScottEnglish said: ...stretch marks near the belly edge... There are many variations in leather, so this is probably true, but I have never seen stretch marks on the belly of any hide that I've ever owned. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alexitbe Report post Posted March 25, 2020 for shoes the insoles are typically made out of 3mm thick veg tan belly.... because its cheaper leather The upper is usually chrome tanned leather of about 1.2mm thickness.... I have not heard of any professional using veg tan for uppers... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ScottEnglish Report post Posted April 1, 2020 Thanks for your comment alexitbe. It's worth my knowing that thicker vegetable-tanned belly leather is used for insoles. I appreciate your mentioning this. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ryano Report post Posted January 5, 2021 On 4/1/2020 at 3:50 PM, ScottEnglish said: Thanks for your comment alexitbe. It's worth my knowing that thicker vegetable-tanned belly leather is used for insoles. I appreciate your mentioning this. The reason for using belly leather is that you want the insole (the leather against your foot) to conform to your foot. Did you ever make your shoes, if so, how did they turn out? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
