toxo Report post Posted March 19, 2020 Usually it's quite happy with Tkt20 waxed polyester but I bought a cone of Tkt 20s (?) braided polyester that isn't waxed and I'm struggling badly. I first found that I had to wax the end just to thread a needle because it frays so readily when cut. Being non waxed also means it's very limp. It feels very nice and soft and I'm sure it's very strong but it's quite flat and the first sign of trouble was when it was reluctant to go through the gap under the needle plate. It was essential to hold on tight to start and when I got it going the top stitch looked very good but underneath was a birds nest and a couple of times the machine jammed up.I ended up loosening the bobbin thread and tightening the top thread almost to complete lockdown and it did get better but the machine clearly doesn't like it. Can anything be done or do I just save it for the next machine? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted March 19, 2020 @toxo Moved your post to leather sewing machines. More likely to get answers here. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted March 19, 2020 It sounds like hand sewing thread. Using waxed thread on a regular sewing machine is a really bad idea. It sticks to guides, rollers and springs and gums up the eye of the needle. It can also get stuck in the shuttle or the tab on the bottom of the throat plate It is also possible that the machine doesn't have enough clearance in the shuttle for Tkt 20 (bonded 138) thread. This size thread requires a #22/140 needle for cloth and a #23/160 for leather. The eye in these needles will easily pass Tkt 20 thread. What size needle are you using that is hard to thread through the eye? Consult this needle and thread chart for the best combinations for various sizes of thread. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toxo Report post Posted March 19, 2020 1 hour ago, Wizcrafts said: It sounds like hand sewing thread. Using waxed thread on a regular sewing machine is a really bad idea. It sticks to guides, rollers and springs and gums up the eye of the needle. It can also get stuck in the shuttle or the tab on the bottom of the throat plate It is also possible that the machine doesn't have enough clearance in the shuttle for Tkt 20 (bonded 138) thread. This size thread requires a #22/140 needle for cloth and a #23/160 for leather. The eye in these needles will easily pass Tkt 20 thread. What size needle are you using that is hard to thread through the eye? Consult this needle and thread chart for the best combinations for various sizes of thread. 2nd go at this. Was almost ready to pull the trigger and it switched to another page and it all went away. My mistake Wiz. It's the hand thread thats waxed. I've got lots of thread but no labels on most of em. I always try to buy Tkt20 polyester. I f I can't get the colour i'll go with bonded nylon. They're all happy with needles fro 110 to 140. I always do the slidey down the 45 degrees thing but this stuff seems much thicker, probably because it's flat and braided. Definitely won't slide on a 140. As soon as you cut it, even at an angle it frays. Some wax on the end tames it down. I'll get some bigger needles to try but I don't want to damage the machine. Here's the stuff I bought. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tkt20s-Polyester-Braid-3000m-Confil-A-L-Paul-Heavy-Thick-Strong-Braided-Thread/261546882618?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=560421492047&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 3 hours ago, Northmount said: @toxo Moved your post to leather sewing machines. More likely to get answers here. Tom Thanks Tom. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted March 19, 2020 It's braided thread, that might be your problem. I bought a cone of braided thread that was ex-boot making factory stock. It's a beautiful thread, strong and very flexible, but I haven't been able to get it to sew successfully in any of my machines! It's very prone to snagging the braids. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toxo Report post Posted March 19, 2020 11 minutes ago, dikman said: It's braided thread, that might be your problem. I bought a cone of braided thread that was ex-boot making factory stock. It's a beautiful thread, strong and very flexible, but I haven't been able to get it to sew successfully in any of my machines! It's very prone to snagging the braids. Just what I didn't want to hear dikman. I'll try to get it going with some larger needles. It lays down a lovely top stitch. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted March 20, 2020 (edited) They "later type" Durkopp (Large hook) 245 /239 and other machines of this class seem to be able to sew with "lacetband" (braided flat thread) the hooks are prepared for that or special bobbin case caps can be ordered but I have no further experience with this. The extract below is for a later type 239, 245 (and other models) manual. They usually use all the same type of hook (large bobbin with bobbin cap) and I´m sure you you can install this hook to other 239 models but some modification may be necessary. if someone needs the complete manual, it can be downloaded here: https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/export/sites/duerkoppadler/commons/download/public/380/B_238_239_245_249_372_380_541_DE_EN.pdf Edited March 20, 2020 by Constabulary Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
